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photocodo
Mar 20, 2012, 3:01 AM
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So I am just starting to build my trad rack and obviously cams are the biggest financial concern. I was wondering if it would be safe to purchase some old WC friends. I see them on ebay occasionally and they look like there in pretty good shape. I would like to pick up a few just to have some cams that I can start learning proper placement with, and once I start buying newer cams I can use the Friends as redundants. Is there any reason old Friends that are in good shape would not be safe?
Thanks
Cody
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moose_droppings
Mar 20, 2012, 3:56 AM
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photocodo wrote: So I am just starting to build my trad rack and obviously cams are the biggest financial concern. I was wondering if it would be safe to purchase some old WC friends. I see them on ebay occasionally and they look like there in pretty good shape. I would like to pick up a few just to have some cams that I can start learning proper placement with, and once I start buying newer cams I can use the Friends as redundants. Is there any reason old Friends that are in good shape would not be safe? Thanks Cody
Well, if they're what I'd call "good shape", then I'd say, yes they're safe.
There are plenty of reasons that they might not be safe, and that would be something you yourself would have to weigh and no one else could say for sure without a hands on inspection.
I myself would chance it. I'd also replace the slings and inspect them completely upon receiving them.
Are you looking at getting Forged Friends or the Flex Friends? Do you have any experience with any cams? Just asking. If possible handle a bunch of different brands, ask some locals what they like and why. For the price difference of cams on Ebay, I wouldn't limit your choice to just Friends.
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bill413
Mar 20, 2012, 1:10 PM
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If your climbing area has a lot of horizontal cracks, then forged friends are not the best choice. Otherwise, they're worth a look. Ditto on replacing the slings (and look up "Gunks tie-off").
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herites
Mar 20, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Buy a new set of hexes for the fraction of the price, climb easy routes with them (and your set of nuts) until you can afford BD C4s or DMM Dragon Cams. You'll also know what sizes you need. You could (and should) use your mentor's gear too. Buying a bunch of shinies and going out climbing trad withouth anyone to critique your placements could end badly.
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crjanow
Mar 20, 2012, 11:22 PM
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photocodo wrote: So I am just starting to build my trad rack and obviously cams are the biggest financial concern. I was wondering if it would be safe to purchase some old WC friends. I see them on ebay occasionally and they look like there in pretty good shape. I would like to pick up a few just to have some cams that I can start learning proper placement with, and once I start buying newer cams I can use the Friends as redundants. Is there any reason old Friends that are in good shape would not be safe? Thanks Cody
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bearbreeder
Mar 21, 2012, 7:00 AM
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if the price is good ... and they look like they are in good condition ... go for it
pay no more than ~20-25$ per cam IMO ... preferably less
inspect the slings and replace as needed ...
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scottek67
Mar 21, 2012, 9:01 AM
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bearbreeder
Mar 21, 2012, 7:20 PM
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id be fine using 8mm cord on those ... just resling em yrself and save some money ...
once you start adding up the price of a professional resling and the cam itself ...
you arent that far away from new RE cams ... which work just as well as those older cams ....
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photocodo
Mar 22, 2012, 2:13 AM
Post #9 of 14
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Thanks guys for all the advice. I guess I will probably end up picking up a set of nuts and maybe a set of hexs and learning to place with those. When I am not able to climb with an experienced trad climber I think I will just carry my rack with me and place pieces between bolts to keep getting practice with my placements. I guess its all about practice and spending time with experienced trad climbers.
Thanks
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bearbreeder
Mar 22, 2012, 6:33 AM
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buy nuts, no hexes ... spend the money to pay for gas for someone to show you what to do ...
or spend the money to hire a guide ...
dont worry about the gear ... worry about know how to use it ...
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photocodo
Mar 23, 2012, 12:40 AM
Post #11 of 14
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What about tricams? Would it be good to get some, it seems that since they can be used as active and passive pro I could start learning how to place some active gear. Just a thought.
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bearbreeder
Mar 23, 2012, 5:43 AM
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i own and use tricams quite a bit ... that said buy nuts and cams first, after plying some old geezer with beer to show you the basic of course
while all passive days are fun ... youll tend to use cams and nuts the most, where i climb anyways ...
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chadnsc
Mar 23, 2012, 2:12 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: buy nuts, no hexes ... spend the money to pay for gas for someone to show you what to do ... or spend the money to hire a guide ... dont worry about the gear ... worry about know how to use it ...
Take the advice about not buying hex's with a grain of salt. Depending on the area you climb in hex's can be very useful and a lot cheaper than cams.
Ask your local climbing community if hex's are worth it for where you'll be climing. At the same time you can find someone to show you how to use the gear you're buying.
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bill413
Mar 23, 2012, 3:45 PM
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What chadnsc wrote about hexes applies to Tricams also. People who climb at the Gunks tend to love them. People in many other areas hate them. They can be great pro, working where nothing else will, but they also can be finicky to set. They are very good for horizontal cracks.
(For the record, I like them.)
(This post was edited by bill413 on Mar 23, 2012, 3:46 PM)
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