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REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock

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kachoong

Mar 22, 2012, 7:46 AM
Post #26 of 42 (1765 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 15304

Re: [IPissonurproj] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

IPissonurproj wrote:

Here's what happened:

Joe Deskjockey stopped by his local REI, just after leaving Starbucks, as he does each Tuesday evening before heading to the gym for a sick sending sesh. He's scoping out some new petzl spirits for this weekend's hardcore adventure trip to go crag at his local (within 8 hr. drive time) crag. all the sudden his quad skinny caramel latte with soy spills all over the spirit draws. This is really not cool so he jets outta REI to go change his prana pants and patagonia plaid T before heading to the gym. Unassuming consumer buys the soiled draws, which are now defective due to the extreme amount of caffiene which has jacked up the webbing....climbs, falls, decks.

Oh come on... 10 one star ratings for this?

I laffed.

Tnutts

Mar 22, 2012, 2:12 PM
Post #27 of 42 (1707 views)
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Registered: Mar 22, 2012
Posts: 2

Re: [moose_droppings] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (3 ratings)	Can't Post

To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.

edge

Mar 22, 2012, 3:09 PM
Post #28 of 42 (1666 views)
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8881

Re: [Tnutts] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Tnutts wrote:

To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.

Can we expect a complete write-up at some point, or will small details continue to be posted each week in this thread?

moose_droppings

Mar 22, 2012, 3:42 PM
Post #29 of 42 (1642 views)
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3310

Re: [Tnutts] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

Tnutts wrote:

To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.

Whew, that was close.

No gear for sale here, everybody move along.

Tnutts

Mar 22, 2012, 3:56 PM
Post #30 of 42 (1631 views)
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Registered: Mar 22, 2012
Posts: 2

Re: [edge] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (4 ratings)	Can't Post

This biner is related to the March 11 incident on "Vomit Launch". Climber clipped 4th or 5th bolt continued climbing and fell between bolts.....the biner clipped to the hanger blew up as it caught the fall and the climber fell some more...dude ended up inverted and smacked his head on the wall. The climber self rescued which is why you won't find an accident report. The hanger the biner was clipped to was an SMC hanger which had spun horizontal. Either the climber partially clipped the biner to the hanger... meaning the notch in the nose caught on the hanger or the biner spun on the horizontal hanger which opened the gate partially allowing for an open gate scenario. I would call it a straight up accident... no fault of the gear manufacturer...just one of those things we as climbers must accept.

Gmburns2000

Mar 22, 2012, 4:09 PM
Post #31 of 42 (1620 views)
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 14535

Re: [Tnutts] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Tnutts wrote:

two posts on this site (both in this thread). the OP has one.

hmmmm...

6pacfershur

Mar 22, 2012, 6:26 PM
Post #32 of 42 (1577 views)
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Registered: Jun 22, 2010
Posts: 182

Re: [Clmbbend] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (4 ratings)	Can't Post

obviously a disinformation campaign designed to boost BD sales....

shockabuku

Mar 22, 2012, 7:49 PM
Post #33 of 42 (1548 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4773

Re: [Tnutts] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Tnutts wrote:

Is this conclusion based on an examination of the physical evidence? And if so, by who?

ianwatson

Mar 23, 2012, 9:10 AM
Post #34 of 42 (1483 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 63

Re: [moose_droppings] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

moose_droppings wrote:

Tnutts wrote:

To set the record straight....The biner which failed was manufactured by Mad Rock.

Whew, that was close.

No gear for sale here, everybody move along.

For sale 8 mad rock light biners only used on draws for ropeside. Not a ton of use i work to much.

j_ung

Mar 23, 2012, 9:22 AM
Post #35 of 42 (1473 views)
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: [Tnutts] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

Tnutts wrote:

In other words, there is no defective gear involved in this incident.

abrock5

Mar 23, 2012, 10:16 AM
Post #36 of 42 (1448 views)
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [moose_droppings] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

So all Metolius gear kills people now? With all of this faulty gear out there, the safest way to climb these days is to free solo. Honnold's gear has never failed him on a free ascent.

(This post was edited by abrock5 on Mar 23, 2012, 10:19 AM)

shockabuku

Mar 23, 2012, 10:21 AM
Post #37 of 42 (1444 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4773

Re: [abrock5] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

abrock5 wrote:

So all Metolius gear kills people now? With all of this faulty gear out there, the safest way to climb these days is to free solo. Honnold's gear has never failed him on his free assents.

Yes, but what about during his climbing?

bill413

Mar 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #38 of 42 (1432 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [abrock5] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

abrock5 wrote:

So all Metolius gear kills people now?

No, since moose_droppings still has a car, Metolius is safe.

abrock5

Mar 24, 2012, 5:26 AM
Post #39 of 42 (1337 views)
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [shockabuku] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I can't believe you caught that. I read my post IMMEDIATELY after I posted it and then edited the misspell! Stupid iPad keyboard.

shockabuku

Mar 24, 2012, 10:31 AM
Post #40 of 42 (1288 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4773

Re: [abrock5] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

abrock5 wrote:

I can't believe you caught that. I read my post IMMEDIATELY after I posted it and then edited the misspell! Stupid iPad keyboard.

It was funny because I saw it, quoted it, but the quote was already the corrected version and I had to back up the page to copy/paste the original version into my post. Wink

billcoe_

Apr 12, 2012, 8:43 PM
Post #41 of 42 (913 views)
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4608

Re: [shockabuku] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

MAD ROCK YOU DAY!???? HOW ARE WE GOING TO BLAME REI NOW? SHIT, THAT SCREWS IT ALL UP.

Hope that the climber is OK, any info on that?

surfstar

Apr 13, 2012, 7:43 AM
Post #42 of 42 (849 views)
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Registered: May 30, 2011
Posts: 206

Re: [billcoe_] REI Carabiner Failure at Smith Rock [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

I don't see what all the commotion is about - if its really from REI, no problemo - they'll take anything on return.

Next garage sale with have a bloody, broken, 'biner for 80% off.