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what are the most common injeries
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imnotslimshady


Mar 22, 2012, 8:00 AM
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what are the most common injeries
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new to climbing and bouldering just wondering what kind of pain i can be expecting besides the usual muscle pain and cramps


kennoyce


Mar 22, 2012, 8:11 AM
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imnotslimshady wrote:
new to climbing and bouldering just wondering what kind of pain i can be expecting besides the usual muscle pain and cramps

I'd say the most common injury is tearing the A2 pully in your ring finger. Personally I've torn the A2 in my left ring finger once, and the A2 in my right middle finger twice, but I hear that the ring finger is the most common.


imnotslimshady


Mar 22, 2012, 8:23 AM
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makes a lot of sense any tips for avoiding that or is it just one of those thing that happen


kennoyce


Mar 22, 2012, 8:41 AM
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imnotslimshady wrote:
makes a lot of sense any tips for avoiding that or is it just one of those thing that happen

Avoid crimping whenever possible, warm up propperly, really, I'm probably not the best person to ask since it's happened to me three times;)


Colinhoglund


Mar 22, 2012, 8:52 AM
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kennoyce wrote:
imnotslimshady wrote:
new to climbing and bouldering just wondering what kind of pain i can be expecting besides the usual muscle pain and cramps

I'd say the most common injury is tearing the A2 pully in your ring finger. Personally I've torn the A2 in my left ring finger once, and the A2 in my right middle finger twice, but I hear that the ring finger is the most common.

1+ to the ring finger tendons. I've been paying for an over zealous crimp as a beginner for years now. Hurt it several times in the gym, though strangely, never outside. Humm . . . wonder why that is . . .Tongue


rsd212


Mar 22, 2012, 10:11 AM
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A2/A3 pulleys (as mentioned above)

Elbow tendinitis - happens to a lot of boulderers...usual remedy is to start doing pushups, reverse curls, and pronation/supination exercises now, before it happens

Twisted ankles/knees from falls - do you trust your belayers/spotters?

Rotator cuff - seen this a lot, though mostly its re-injury of something that happened before. Watch those mantle and iron cross-like moves.

Been seeing a lot of mentions of wrist lately, and seen a few people in the gym with taped-up wrists, but since I've never had it, I dont really know what the injuries are about.


olderic


Mar 22, 2012, 11:19 AM
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I think that give the title of this thread that spelling mistakes are the most common.


jt512


Mar 22, 2012, 1:29 PM
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olderic wrote:
I think that give the title of this thread that spelling mistakes are the most common.

You beat me to it. I was going to say that the part of the brain responsible for spelling seems particularly vulnerable.


sp115


Mar 22, 2012, 8:42 PM
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olderic wrote:
I think that give the title of this thread that spelling mistakes are the most common.

That bittersweet feeling that comes from a misspelled spelling heckle...


ianwatson


Mar 23, 2012, 9:36 AM
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Ego, like when your flailing away on a v1 and you say i cant belive this is only v1 feels like v16 to me.


(This post was edited by ianwatson on Mar 23, 2012, 9:38 AM)


sungam


Mar 24, 2012, 4:02 AM
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jt512 wrote:
olderic wrote:
I think that give the title of this thread that spelling mistakes are the most common.

You beat me to it. I was going to say that the part of the brain responsible for spelling seems particularly vulnerable.
I was going to go for "butthurtz".


jbro_135


Mar 26, 2012, 10:31 AM
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I have three split fingertips right now...


flesh


Mar 28, 2012, 8:25 PM
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First of all, don't listen to that jump into threads, don't add anything and find it worth their time to bash your spelling.

Basically, finger injuries from crimping are the most common. The best thing you can do is preventative, don't crimp at your power limit often. Since your new to climbing, give it a couple years of keeping track of when you do/don't crimp. Maybe limit yourself to crimping hard only 2 sessions per month. Intentionally open hand holds in a relaxed hand position, even crimps.

It's easier said then done. You'll find yourself in situations regularly that you feel outside pressure to crimp. Maybe it's because all your friends are trying something and egging you on to try it. It may seem like someone else is progressing faster than you because they are training power crimping. Various situations will arise, stick to your guns, be disiplined, it will pay off in the long run.

It helps to pick any and all projects that are open handed. Leaving the crimping to below your limit climbing.

Locally, there's a notoriously crimpy difficult boulder problem. By adjusting the beta and working out atypical movement, I've almost done it only crimping one hold, out of a dozen crimps.

Looking back on the last 15 years of climbing, there are many areas that could've been improved. The one thing that would've made a larger difference than everything else combined is limiting crimping. Injuries from crimping grow compoudingly as you move up the rating scales.


shotwell


Mar 29, 2012, 5:42 AM
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flesh wrote:
First of all, don't listen to that jump into threads, don't add anything and find it worth their time to bash your spelling.

Basically, finger injuries from crimping are the most common. The best thing you can do is preventative, don't crimp at your power limit often. Since your new to climbing, give it a couple years of keeping track of when you do/don't crimp. Maybe limit yourself to crimping hard only 2 sessions per month. Intentionally open hand holds in a relaxed hand position, even crimps.

It's easier said then done. You'll find yourself in situations regularly that you feel outside pressure to crimp. Maybe it's because all your friends are trying something and egging you on to try it. It may seem like someone else is progressing faster than you because they are training power crimping. Various situations will arise, stick to your guns, be disiplined, it will pay off in the long run.

It helps to pick any and all projects that are open handed. Leaving the crimping to below your limit climbing.

Locally, there's a notoriously crimpy difficult boulder problem. By adjusting the beta and working out atypical movement, I've almost done it only crimping one hold, out of a dozen crimps.

Looking back on the last 15 years of climbing, there are many areas that could've been improved. The one thing that would've made a larger difference than everything else combined is limiting crimping. Injuries from crimping grow compoudingly as you move up the rating scales.

Interestingly enough, my finger injuries have all come from pockets or deep incuts, never from hard crimping. Curt also seems to get hurt in this manner.

Not saying that you're wrong, crimping is stressful for a lot of people. It appears that people have some minor physiological differences that help prevent these crimping injuries.

I only bring this up because you pound the same drum that many others do. While I find it to be good general advice, I don't think it will work for everyone.


flesh


Mar 29, 2012, 9:46 AM
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Mono's are up there with crimping, in terms of potential injury when using them. Probably higher. You just don't see as many mono injuries because hardly anyone climbs on mono's in the states compared to crimps. Maybe you live in a are that has them? One of my 9 finger injuries are from a v7 mono problem.

It also depends on how hard you climb, how much you weigh, etc.

If your typically climbing v5 or less crimping your putting drastically less pressure on them than say v9 plus crimping regularly.

My frame of reference is probably a little skewed though. The worst climbers I usually climb with can do v8 on a good day.

The other thing about bad mono/crimp injuries is that sometimes they takes years to heal. Whereas anytime I've had a shoulder hurting or elbow tendonitis it was easy to get rid of through preventative workouts or just plain limiting doing whatever was hurting it. With fingers you're just stuck. One of mine took five years before it stopped hurting when I climbed.

Maybe I should put it this way, if your climbing v7/5.13a and up, crimping related injuries is the most common and doing anything possible to prevent them is worth is in the long term.

I'm sure some people are different. I have a couple friends who warm up on v11 crimp problems outside on granite. They've never had an injury. Usually, these anomalies are very lightweight people. Guys who weigh 140 or less. Usually these mutants simply don't get hurt ever. Or their definition of an injury is what most of us would call being sore.


Jooler


Mar 29, 2012, 11:22 AM
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flesh wrote:
My frame of reference is probably a little skewed though. The worst climbers I usually climb with can do v8 on a good day.

Correction:

The WEAKEST, not worst. I know many strong boulderers (V7-V12) that don't have great technique but have tendons and muscles of steel... they may be the STRONGEST of my friends, but not the BEST. Careful of your choice of words


shotwell


Mar 29, 2012, 11:47 AM
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flesh wrote:
Mono's are up there with crimping, in terms of potential injury when using them. Probably higher. You just don't see as many mono injuries because hardly anyone climbs on mono's in the states compared to crimps. Maybe you live in a are that has them? One of my 9 finger injuries are from a v7 mono problem.

It also depends on how hard you climb, how much you weigh, etc.

If your typically climbing v5 or less crimping your putting drastically less pressure on them than say v9 plus crimping regularly.

My frame of reference is probably a little skewed though. The worst climbers I usually climb with can do v8 on a good day.

The other thing about bad mono/crimp injuries is that sometimes they takes years to heal. Whereas anytime I've had a shoulder hurting or elbow tendonitis it was easy to get rid of through preventative workouts or just plain limiting doing whatever was hurting it. With fingers you're just stuck. One of mine took five years before it stopped hurting when I climbed.

Maybe I should put it this way, if your climbing v7/5.13a and up, crimping related injuries is the most common and doing anything possible to prevent them is worth is in the long term.

I'm sure some people are different. I have a couple friends who warm up on v11 crimp problems outside on granite. They've never had an injury. Usually, these anomalies are very lightweight people. Guys who weigh 140 or less. Usually these mutants simply don't get hurt ever. Or their definition of an injury is what most of us would call being sore.

Both examples I used (myself and Curt) climb(ed?) harder than v8 on a good day. Nor have any of my injuries come from monos. I do my best climbing and the majority of my climbing on crimpers well above v7. I'm also a pretty big guy, weighing 180 most of the time.

I hurt an A2 pulley (ring finger) on a sloping 2-finger dish. I also recently hurt an A1 pulley (pinky) that got stuck in an incut. Both were gripped using an open hand. Amusingly, both injuries happened while warming up.

My point is still just that some of us are subject to different injuries. Figuring out what works and doesn't for yourself is far more important than following a set rule, such as never crimp.


flesh


Mar 29, 2012, 8:30 PM
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I agree with the first part, disagree with not following a set of rules, like minimizing crimping at your limit.

FWIW, I would've disagreed with myself 10 yrs ago when I was crimping v11.


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