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will03uk
Mar 24, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2012
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Hello,
I have been climbing for a bit over a year, casually, once a week. I can climb up to 6b (french grading), on top rope, but only 6a on lead as I still am a bit fearful of falling when lead climbing, and I think it was up to V2 for bouldering (though I can't absolutely remember the level corresponding the colours at my local climbing wall).
Along with my personal target of trying to improve my technique to become more efficient, I really want to know how to train properly; at home I have a small hangboard, which I still don't know how to use effectively, and a powerball.
What training techniques would you suggest to me (I'm willing to put quite a bit of time into it) and are there any other ways, other then improving efficiency, to do along-side?
Basically, I'm very much a beginner who really wants to improve, so how?
Thank-you.
Will
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rocknice2
Mar 24, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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will03uk wrote: Hello, ... climbing ...., casually, once a week........... .......... trying to improve my technique.......... .............I'm willing to put quite a bit of time into it ........... Basically, I'm very much a beginner who really wants to improve, so how? Thank-you. Will |
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ceebo
Mar 24, 2012, 6:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
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will03uk wrote: Hello, I have been climbing for a bit over a year, casually, once a week. I can climb up to 6b (french grading), on top rope, but only 6a on lead as I still am a bit fearful of falling when lead climbing, and I think it was up to V2 for bouldering (though I can't absolutely remember the level corresponding the colours at my local climbing wall). Along with my personal target of trying to improve my technique to become more efficient, I really want to know how to train properly; at home I have a small hangboard, which I still don't know how to use effectively, and a powerball. What training techniques would you suggest to me (I'm willing to put quite a bit of time into it) and are there any other ways, other then improving efficiency, to do along-side? Basically, I'm very much a beginner who really wants to improve, so how? Thank-you. Will
Check the training guide for noobs, it's in this section.
Rocknice, how can i be cool like you?.
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crjanow
Mar 24, 2012, 6:38 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2008
Posts: 69
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will03uk wrote: Hello, I have been climbing for a bit over a year, casually, once a week. I can climb up to 6b (french grading), on top rope, but only 6a on lead as I still am a bit fearful of falling when lead climbing, and I think it was up to V2 for bouldering (though I can't absolutely remember the level corresponding the colours at my local climbing wall). Along with my personal target of trying to improve my technique to become more efficient, I really want to know how to train properly; at home I have a small hangboard, which I still don't know how to use effectively, and a powerball. What training techniques would you suggest to me (I'm willing to put quite a bit of time into it) and are there any other ways, other then improving efficiency, to do along-side? Basically, I'm very much a beginner who really wants to improve, so how? Thank-you. Will 
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 24, 2012, 6:55 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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Blueeyedclimber's keys to improve:
1. Climb a lot, but not too much. Listen to your body and don't overdo it. The body needs rest.
2. Footwork, footwork, footwork. And when you're done with that practice footwork. Be precise with your feet no matter how big the hold is. Keep your eye on your foot until it's weighted. Place it precise and controlled.
3. Avoid injury. See step #1. Your muscles will strengthen much faster than your tendons. Don't over do it. When you get to lead climbing, there is much more potential for injury. Take it slow.
4. Relax and do not stress too much about grades, plateaus, roadblocks, etc. Remember that climbing is fun but when too much emphasis is placed on climbing the next grade, it can take some of that fun away. This can actually cause you to climb worse.
5. Set goals. Set a variety of different goals, both long term and short term. Don't limit it to just climbing grades though. Set goals around specific climbs, techniques, and technical skills.
6. Climb with better climbers. Not just better, but motivated and positive climbers. This is probably the most important in seeing huge gains. If you are better than your regular partners, try to make time to climber with others.
7. Shut up and listen (and watch). Take notice of more experienced climbers, both when they talk and when they are climbing. You just might learn something.
Good luck and be safe.
Josh
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Traches
Mar 25, 2012, 4:21 AM
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Registered: Jan 26, 2012
Posts: 83
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Want it harder.
Also what josh said
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Exen
Mar 25, 2012, 8:49 AM
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Registered: Nov 15, 2010
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Agreed on what Josh said.
Climb as much as you can, I know I improved from casual climber to where I am, because I spent hours on end, each day, seven days a week doing it. And to reiterate, use your feet.
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shockabuku
Mar 25, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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If you're willing to put in a lot of time, put it in at the climbing gym (or on real rock). That will probably do you a lot more good than a hangboard. Try to get in lots of mileage but play with it as you go, trying to learn the most efficient way to climb instead of just fighting to get through the climbs.
Moderate your intensity so that you don't overtrain.
Definitely watch better climbers and try to emulate their techniques, and talk to people about what they're doing and why, but keep your goals reasonable. A lot of practice on good fundamental movement at grades you can execute properly is more valuable than floundering around on stuff that's too hard.
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Colinhoglund
Mar 26, 2012, 6:16 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2008
Posts: 338
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Once a week is not enough, and it's not until your more advanced that specific strength training helps much, this includes hang boards. Your simply far too likely to hurt your tendons with frequent training. Get mileage on the rock (or plastic).
This summer I was climbing an average of 3 or 4 days a week. I saw some real progress in my climbing. However this winter I've hit the books finishing my degree, only climbing about 5 days a month, or once or so a week. You guessed it, I've regressed a few letter grades and my endurance is crap. However, the summers coming and I'll be back to 3+ days a week, I'm expecting another great season of progress.
Mileage!
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