|
|
|
|
d2reid
Mar 27, 2012, 11:14 AM
Post #1 of 2
(1916 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2012
Posts: 3
|
We had two good climbs today. You will need to stop at the visitor center and sign a waiver, then sign in on the climber’s log. There is a new climber’s route on the west end of the parking lot of the lodge. Two ways down, to the right of the sign is a water fall that can be down climbed, to the left of the sign you can find a small ledge that you can down climb if you are a pretty good climber or rappel if not. If you can, bring two or three ropes. There are places that have double ledges. The climbers trail is very overgrown and a good rough hike
After scouting we found “The Old Lodge Trail”. It starts off the side walk about midway on the lodge. You can see it pretty clearly on Google Earth. When the trail gets just past the east end of the lodge there is a user trail that takes you to the cliffs edge. To the left of that there is a cut that has an old drain pipe attached to it. N 35 09.792, W 093 38.679. We set up, rappelled and then climbed this cut.
To the right of that is another notch in the rocks with a large pine just above it. We anchored there and rappelled there. N 35 09.784, W 093 38.684. On the climb back up I reached an area that appeared unstable, so rather than chance dropping rocks on my wife who was belaying I rappelled back. She climbed over it without disturbing it.
Since I don't have the guide book and don't know the names I cannot post int he named route section. We are new to climbing, so would have to rate these climbs 5.3 or 5.4.
.
|
|
|
|
|
jolery
Mar 29, 2012, 8:44 PM
Post #2 of 2
(1799 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2008
Posts: 173
|
Love that drain pipe - remember many a time climbing that thing up and down - got lucky and never slipped. Any more I take the hiking trail - it is quite short compared to most approaches.
5.3 at Magazine? I'd like to see that - my guess is that it was 4th class or over 5.7. Glad you had fun - Magazine is an amazing crag!
|
|
|
|
|
|
