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how to make a self equalizing anchor
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photocodo


Mar 27, 2012, 5:36 PM
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how to make a self equalizing anchor
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I was climbing today at Crowders Mt (NC) and there were tons of routes that you could walk up to the top and set up a top rope. I was setting up next to another guy who pulled out a self equalizing set up that he had tied out of cord himself. It was a great little rig and I was wondering if anyone here had made one themselves. Does anyone have any type of instructional on how to tie one, what size cord to use etc. I would love to see pictures if anyone has them. Thanks for the help in advance and I look forward to seeing some nice handywork.

Cody


jt512


Mar 27, 2012, 6:28 PM
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photocodo wrote:
I was climbing today at Crowders Mt (NC) and there were tons of routes that you could walk up to the top and set up a top rope. I was setting up next to another guy who pulled out a self equalizing set up that he had tied out of cord himself. It was a great little rig and I was wondering if anyone here had made one themselves. Does anyone have any type of instructional on how to tie one, what size cord to use etc. I would love to see pictures if anyone has them. Thanks for the help in advance and I look forward to seeing some nice handywork.

Cody

Just a wild guess, but I'll bet you didn't bother to do a search before posting.

Jay


photocodo


Mar 27, 2012, 7:14 PM
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I did search for it but mostly found people talking about pre-made anchors like the trango or metolious. Maybe I am not searching properly, if there is a post on here talking about how to make one I would love to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks again for the help.

Cody


jt512


Mar 27, 2012, 7:41 PM
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photocodo wrote:
I did search for it but mostly found people talking about pre-made anchors like the trango or metolious. Maybe I am not searching properly, if there is a post on here talking about how to make one I would love to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks again for the help.

Cody

Search for "equalette."

Jay


justroberto


Mar 27, 2012, 8:40 PM
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Most of the stuff you'd be toproping there will have double bolt anchors. Just put two draws/runners up and call it good.


dindolino32


Mar 27, 2012, 9:10 PM
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$20 bucks will buy you Craig Luebben's book Mastering basic skills. It will teach you much more than how to make an anchor. It was a great read when I began climbing and had a lot of pics.


jt512


Mar 27, 2012, 9:20 PM
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dindolino32 wrote:
$20 bucks will buy you Craig Luebben's book Mastering basic skills.

Coincidentally, the price of two draws.

Jay


bearbreeder


Mar 27, 2012, 11:08 PM
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http://www.amazon.com/...ineers/dp/1594850062



$12-19 ... chances are itll teach you more than youll ever "learn" on RC Wink


dindolino32


Mar 28, 2012, 6:49 AM
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So after reading that book you can top rope any thing. Not just on bolts. Cool! But I'd rather learn how to lead, set gear and understand basic self rescue tips as well. I've read both and enjoyed Luebbens book more.


shockabuku


Mar 28, 2012, 6:51 AM
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dindolino32 wrote:
So after reading that book you can top rope any thing. Not just on bolts. Cool! But I'd rather learn how to lead, set gear and understand basic self rescue tips as well. I've read both and enjoyed Luebbens book more.

Are you referring to the book directly above your post?

The one that says "Craig Luebben" where the author's name goes?


dindolino32


Mar 28, 2012, 8:52 AM
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my bad, i was reading on my iphone. No, I like
Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills because it encompasses more than just anchors. I thought that was the pic was the john long anchor book.


bearbreeder


Mar 28, 2012, 9:31 AM
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dindolino32 wrote:
So after reading that book you can top rope any thing. Not just on bolts. Cool! But I'd rather learn how to lead, set gear and understand basic self rescue tips as well. I've read both and enjoyed Luebbens book more.

the book i posted actually has a whole chapter for gear placements and many other things beyond anchors ... the information is quite comprehensive and easy to understand ... supplement that with a few sessions with an experienced person and youll likely be more than ready

learning to lead should be done with someone whos experienced, not with a book .. there are many intricacies to leading outdoors, especially trad, that i dont feel a book really covers it properly ... a good resource is chris lindners sport climbing 101 video ... video IMO is better for this particular part as it shows how to jump, fall, belay, etc in action

a better resource for self rescue is ... good examples and practical scenarios ... an even better resource is a self rescue course



if yr going to climb enough ... youll eventually buy a few specialized books and take some specialized courses should you want to improve yr understanding


Partner cracklover


Mar 28, 2012, 1:50 PM
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photocodo wrote:
I was climbing today at Crowders Mt (NC) and there were tons of routes that you could walk up to the top and set up a top rope. I was setting up next to another guy who pulled out a self equalizing set up that he had tied out of cord himself. It was a great little rig and I was wondering if anyone here had made one themselves. Does anyone have any type of instructional on how to tie one, what size cord to use etc. I would love to see pictures if anyone has them. Thanks for the help in advance and I look forward to seeing some nice handywork.

Cody

I was going to disagree with JT and say that if you're taking the trouble to ask about this here, you should definitely buy one of the books on anchor building.

But to be perfectly honest, I feel that if you are trying to set up a TR, these books will actually lead you down the wrong path.

I appreciate the work that went into these anchor books, and for the multi-pitch climber, there is much useful info to be gleaned. But toprope climbers seem to have horribly misplaced the concepts found in these books, and created ridiculously and unnecessarily overcomplicated anchors. Anchors that, while they probably look way cool, take more time, $$, and trouble, add nothing to safety. And worse - make you think that more is better. Worst case - I can even imagine cases where someone who's not familiar enough with a particular rig could screw something up badly when moving it from one anchor to another.

KISS. You don't want or need a self-equalizing rig on a TR setup.

GO


bearbreeder


Mar 28, 2012, 1:54 PM
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the anchor book i posted has a whole chapter dedicated towards setting up top rope anchors ...

i dont know how thats misleading .. hmmmmmm


Partner cracklover


Mar 28, 2012, 1:59 PM
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cracklover wrote:
KISS. You don't want or need a self-equalizing rig on a TR setup.

GO

And to clarify - when I say "you" - I don't mean just you personally need to KISS because you're new. I mean all of us.

I, personally, would almost never use a self-equalizing rig on a TR setup. It creates more problems than it solves.

GO


Partner cracklover


Mar 28, 2012, 2:06 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
the anchor book i posted has a whole chapter dedicated towards setting up top rope anchors ...

i dont know how thats misleading .. hmmmmmm

My bad, I have not read the Luebben book. I know he knows his shit.

Having read the TOC online, it does look worthwhile. Better than the JL book.

GO


Partner rgold


Mar 28, 2012, 10:01 PM
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The home-made thing you are looking for, or should be looking for, can be found at http://www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/acr.pdf.

However, it is becoming increasingly clear that self-equalizing rigs are defeated by their own internal friction and can not be counted on to be any better than fixed-arm set-ups, which have the advantage of not extending if an anchor piece fails.

So the best thing to do is to forget about self-equalizing schemes and learn to build solid redundant distributed anchors. True equalization is and has always been a myth propagated by catchy mnemonic devices rather than by any real testing of anchor systems.

It is realistic to assume that one arm of a three-point anchor will take at least half the total load. Build your anchors accordingly.


ChuQWallA


May 2, 2012, 5:25 PM
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I too thought that OP was referring to an equalette. I found this guide to be really useful.
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/EarnestAnchors3.pdf


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