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snoopy138
Mar 28, 2012, 8:58 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: So a couple ov weeks back when teh pros from SLC came owt, they had a photog with them.... Hears a shot he took of C-ya tredpoynting teh Sic Gnar. [image]http://www.mikeboden.com/client/climbing/content/bin/images/large/_5886058307.jpg[/image] hotlinking disabled, cheesetitting enabled. Huh? it seems to werk fer me. http://www.mikeboden.com/...687776075_large.html You can get to the another photo here durp. and see a lot more shotz of teh plase.
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snoopy138
Mar 28, 2012, 9:00 AM
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: I will be at the slightly overhanging slabby area tomorrow. Well, I wood have been happy to join ewe gays... and gun sum rope, ifs ewe hadn't texted me yore plans at 10:30 last nite. With a day or so notice, I can makes thing happen.. but last minute joe... won't awlways werk. Hope teh tick list werked owt fer ewe... Whut did ewe gets on? sorry about that, I texted 5 minutes after we made the plan. I thought we'd climb wed or thurs but it got bumped up. The list was good, but we didn't get to the harder stuff. Did power play, the 10a next to it, tangerine dream, trundle trophy, that 10a jughaul flexercise, and then I did the 11a to 11b extension just left of power play. No fall day for me. Place is pretty sweet, I'd be psyched to have it in my back yard. A testament to what chipping, gluing, trundling and heavy base work can do to a quarry. I did goof and not bring the 70 so couldn't try the blood and guts. flesh & blood? you can kind of do that won with a 60, just involves some use of teh rock sitting on teh ground. it sounds like you did all the warmups, you should take another day and get on some of the harder stuff.
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snoopy138
Mar 28, 2012, 9:02 AM
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tripperjm wrote: Well, I coodn't figure it owt any better than just linking it teh same way ewe did. I tested it a few tymes... and it werked sumtymes, when I got teh diabled hot link page I just refressed and then gots teh pic. I didn't likes teh other won as much. oh... and I also relized... after awl teh tyme fuking with it and teh other won, that teh root is knot teh Sic Gnar but rather teh Drive By. course ifs I'm still fuking it up... oh well, I dun messing with it. #6 the pic doc linked certainly looks like teh drive by. too much steep rawk to teh right to be teh SG. plus, pretty sure those holds aren't on the SG.
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snoopy138
Mar 28, 2012, 9:03 AM
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drivel wrote: meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: I will be at the slightly overhanging slabby area tomorrow. Well, I wood have been happy to join ewe gays... and gun sum rope, ifs ewe hadn't texted me yore plans at 10:30 last nite. With a day or so notice, I can makes thing happen.. but last minute joe... won't awlways werk. Hope teh tick list werked owt fer ewe... Whut did ewe gets on? Oh... and I awlmost fergots. I checked my guide, did teh Baby Huey in 1985. That's funny. I was born in 1985. I gradumerated high school then whoah. you're old. you climbing with the clamhats at the new this weekend, old man? you getting franchised on this page today, young man?
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drivel
Mar 28, 2012, 9:11 AM
Post #90880 of 99596
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snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: I will be at the slightly overhanging slabby area tomorrow. Well, I wood have been happy to join ewe gays... and gun sum rope, ifs ewe hadn't texted me yore plans at 10:30 last nite. With a day or so notice, I can makes thing happen.. but last minute joe... won't awlways werk. Hope teh tick list werked owt fer ewe... Whut did ewe gets on? Oh... and I awlmost fergots. I checked my guide, did teh Baby Huey in 1985. That's funny. I was born in 1985. I gradumerated high school then whoah. you're old. you climbing with the clamhats at the new this weekend, old man? you getting franchised on this page today, young man? apparently.
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caughtinside
Mar 28, 2012, 10:00 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: I will be at the slightly overhanging slabby area tomorrow. Well, I wood have been happy to join ewe gays... and gun sum rope, ifs ewe hadn't texted me yore plans at 10:30 last nite. With a day or so notice, I can makes thing happen.. but last minute joe... won't awlways werk. Hope teh tick list werked owt fer ewe... Whut did ewe gets on? sorry about that, I texted 5 minutes after we made the plan. I thought we'd climb wed or thurs but it got bumped up. The list was good, but we didn't get to the harder stuff. Did power play, the 10a next to it, tangerine dream, trundle trophy, that 10a jughaul flexercise, and then I did the 11a to 11b extension just left of power play. No fall day for me. Place is pretty sweet, I'd be psyched to have it in my back yard. A testament to what chipping, gluing, trundling and heavy base work can do to a quarry. I did goof and not bring the 70 so couldn't try the blood and guts. flesh & blood? you can kind of do that won with a 60, just involves some use of teh rock sitting on teh ground. it sounds like you did all the warmups, you should take another day and get on some of the harder stuff. Yeah, Jack said something about being able to finagle it with a 60 but I didn't want to mess around. I would have liked to have tried some of the harder stuff. We got a late start though, didn't get to the quarry until a few minutes after 11. Plus I was gunning. Automatic Static. That was the .11b I did, really good. No chalk on it. It's an extension of Ground Zero. I'd love to go back and try harder stuff. Probably won't happen this visit though. It's warming up, and I'm headed to phx friday for a weeding.
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kachoong
Mar 28, 2012, 10:03 AM
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lena_chita wrote: Today was a disappointing day that highlighted two things: 1) the Hueco rules really suck 2) Climbing hard matters. I mentioned that we were going on a guided tour today b/c we wanted to see something other than the North Mountain. Banz is a pretty organized person, despite every outward indication to the opposite, so he planned it all out, we didn't have a reservation for this day, and we signed up for the commercial guided tour -- not the volunteer-guided-- as soon as we got here, the very first day. We were the first ones to sign up for it, which means (theoretically) that we were the ones to decide where we wanted to go with the guide, and if any additional people signed up for the commercial tour for the same slot after us, well, they'd go where we wanted to go. What happened in practice last night was that the guide came up and said, only with moderate politeness, what amounted to this: hey, listen, a bunch of strong friends of mine want to do the guided tour, and i would much rather guide them and climb the amazing V-double-digits with them, instead of guiding you guys on some stuff you want to climb, so basicly, you can either pay for guiding anyway, and tag along with us, and we will try to find something for you to climb near out sick gnar prodj, or you can just bugger off and go wait in line for the North Mountain... or take a rest day, for all I care. Never mind the rules of how the guided tours are supposed to work. I mean, I totally understand the guy who would rather boulder with his buddies, and all, and get paid in the bargain, but for commercial tour I expected a bit more... professionalism? I really wanted to try Dragonfly, and they were not going there, so we decided not to pay for the so-called "guided tour" a.k.a. the privilege of tagging along with some guys who really didn't care to have our company in the first place, and we went back to the North Mountain again. We got in O.K. as walk-ins, since this is really the end of the season here. But the day kept going downside from there. [MAJOR WHINE ALERT] I got on Girls of Juarez at the end of the day on Sunday, and got it clean to the lip move on first try. I worked on it for a while, figured it out, but didn't have the juice to link it all together... oh well, no big deal, plenty of time, and it felt like it would go for sure. Came back today, tried the cruxy move at the lip from the middle of the problem a couple of times, got it to where I thought I was pretty solid on it, and started from the bottom... WTF??? I couldn't do the moves I flashed! Fell off the start like a dozen times, freaked myself out big-time, b/c we only had our 2 pads, and that was not enough, really. Banz kept moving the pad in anticipation of me making the move, and then I wouldn't make it... Finally made it through the start, sloppy, flailing, foot-cutting, overgripping, major shaking and sweating, everything wrong you could possibly picture... made it through the crux anyway -- and fell. Decided to take a longish break and combat those pesky tears of frustration, spotted Banz on some random V2, he staggered back, not even falling, just lost his footing at the start, and pinned my arm to the rock. Of course, it had to be the same arm that finally barely healed, and in the same place, and the rock had to be really sharp. I am hoping it is just a bruise, and it just hurts all the way through the muscle because the blow was pretty sharp, but it hurts in the same way, and in the same place as before, and I can't pinch my fingers together without it hurting pretty badly. [/END WHINE ALERT, START TEAR ALERT] Needless to say, this ended the day pretty early. Burritos were awesome as usual, and Banz is good with dorky board games, so that is all good. Hanging out at the barn now. bleh... The guide sounds like a dick. Glad you were still able to get in and climb something to make most of your time there. Pity there's such selfishness in it for the so called professional locals. Hope your arm heals quick.
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caughtinside
Mar 28, 2012, 10:28 AM
Post #90883 of 99596
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Is this the Crucified or Life Returns?
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drivel
Mar 28, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!! bring on the skinny for summertime.
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drivel
Mar 28, 2012, 10:47 AM
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^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucified.
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Mar 28, 2012, 11:07 AM
Post #90887 of 99596
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drivel wrote: ^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucified. Crucified for what?
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meatbomz
Mar 28, 2012, 11:07 AM
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drivel wrote: meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: I will be at the slightly overhanging slabby area tomorrow. Well, I wood have been happy to join ewe gays... and gun sum rope, ifs ewe hadn't texted me yore plans at 10:30 last nite. With a day or so notice, I can makes thing happen.. but last minute joe... won't awlways werk. Hope teh tick list werked owt fer ewe... Whut did ewe gets on? Oh... and I awlmost fergots. I checked my guide, did teh Baby Huey in 1985. That's funny. I was born in 1985. I gradumerated high school then whoah. you're old. you climbing with the clamhats at the new this weekend, old man? I'll be there. Are we climbing the spurtz or the tard?
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kachoong
Mar 28, 2012, 11:41 AM
Post #90889 of 99596
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meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: tripperjm wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: I will be at the slightly overhanging slabby area tomorrow. Well, I wood have been happy to join ewe gays... and gun sum rope, ifs ewe hadn't texted me yore plans at 10:30 last nite. With a day or so notice, I can makes thing happen.. but last minute joe... won't awlways werk. Hope teh tick list werked owt fer ewe... Whut did ewe gets on? Oh... and I awlmost fergots. I checked my guide, did teh Baby Huey in 1985. That's funny. I was born in 1985. I gradumerated high school then I was in last year primary/elementary school. 86 I started HS.
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granite_grrl
Mar 28, 2012, 11:44 AM
Post #90890 of 99596
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drivel wrote: Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!!  bring on the skinny for summertime. I started my calorie counting again. The snacking was getting out of hand and having to log everything et least keeps me honest.
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drivel
Mar 28, 2012, 11:49 AM
Post #90891 of 99596
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climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: ^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucified. Crucified for what? wanting to lose weight. (~5 lbs)
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climbs4fun
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Mar 28, 2012, 11:51 AM
Post #90892 of 99596
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drivel wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: ^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucified. Crucified for what? wanting to lose weight. (~5 lbs) That's stupid
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granite_grrl
Mar 28, 2012, 11:56 AM
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climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: ^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucified. Crucified for what? Oh please, you've seen it. - "I'm trynig to lose weight!" - "yeah righ! Like YOU need to lose weight!"
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snoopy138
Mar 28, 2012, 11:57 AM
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drivel wrote: Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!!  bring on the skinny for summertime. sounds like you got lucky there with not having to eat any tomatoes.
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snoopy138
Mar 28, 2012, 11:58 AM
Post #90895 of 99596
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drivel wrote: ^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucifiedlife returns.
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kachoong
Mar 28, 2012, 11:59 AM
Post #90896 of 99596
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granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!!  bring on the skinny for summertime. I started my calorie counting again. The snacking was getting out of hand and having to log everything et least keeps me honest. I tell ya, do my two week or monthly grocery shop challenge and you'll lose a bunch of weight. Sacrifices need to be made to lose weight! I sometimes crave pasta or rice but it's fine if I can chow on protein, some fat and a bunch of veggies/salad. Pretty much the only starchy stuff I eat now are sweet potato, beets, butternut and the occasional black beans. No pasta, no rice, no bread (don't crave it anymore), no regular potato. I've also cut out dairy and soy.
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kachoong
Mar 28, 2012, 12:00 PM
Post #90897 of 99596
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snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!!  bring on the skinny for summertime. sounds like you got lucky there with not having to eat any tomatoes. I laffed!
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drivel
Mar 28, 2012, 12:27 PM
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kachoong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!!  bring on the skinny for summertime. I started my calorie counting again. The snacking was getting out of hand and having to log everything et least keeps me honest. I tell ya, do my two week or monthly grocery shop challenge and you'll lose a bunch of weight. Sacrifices need to be made to lose weight! I sometimes crave pasta or rice but it's fine if I can chow on protein, some fat and a bunch of veggies/salad. Pretty much the only starchy stuff I eat now are sweet potato, beets, butternut and the occasional black beans. No pasta, no rice, no bread (don't crave it anymore), no regular potato. I've also cut out dairy and soy. camhat and i discussed this. we're dropping pasta and rice and bread. and then he made a batch of really good hommade bread. fucker. but after this, no more bread. much more spinach and veggies. ...and I will quit getting cokes from teh vending machine at work.
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drivel
Mar 28, 2012, 12:30 PM
Post #90899 of 99596
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climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: ^ can't say that on faceplant without getting crucified. Crucified for what? wanting to lose weight. (~5 lbs) That's stupid pretty much without fail, this is what happens when weight/fitness/ect comes up in conversation: [with climbers] 'teh dribble would like to lose 5-8 lbs. could teh dribble lose 10 lbs?? would be a challenge." "yeah, I bet you could def lose 5 lbs. Maybe even 10 lbs. quit eating bread!!" [with anyone who's not climbers]'teh dribble would like to lose 5-8 lbs. could teh dribble lose 10 lbs?? would be a challenge." "come teh fuck on! that's not heathly! what are you anorexic! jesus, do you say that to make me feel bad? I wish I was as skinny as you! there's no way you could possible lose 5 lbs."
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kachoong
Mar 28, 2012, 12:33 PM
Post #90900 of 99596
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drivel wrote: kachoong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: Spinach salad with avocado and mushroom for lunch. Out of tomatoes!!!  bring on the skinny for summertime. I started my calorie counting again. The snacking was getting out of hand and having to log everything et least keeps me honest. I tell ya, do my two week or monthly grocery shop challenge and you'll lose a bunch of weight. Sacrifices need to be made to lose weight! I sometimes crave pasta or rice but it's fine if I can chow on protein, some fat and a bunch of veggies/salad. Pretty much the only starchy stuff I eat now are sweet potato, beets, butternut and the occasional black beans. No pasta, no rice, no bread (don't crave it anymore), no regular potato. I've also cut out dairy and soy. camhat and i discussed this. we're dropping pasta and rice and bread. and then he made a batch of really good hommade bread. fucker. but after this, no more bread. much more spinach and veggies. ...and I will quit getting cokes from teh vending machine at work. Yeah sugar is the biggest culprit. I eat honey if I need something sweetened. Pasta is still the one thing I crave most, but haven't had any now for over three months. I also crave chocolate like crazy, but when I do I make a smoothy with ice cubes, almond milk, almonds, honey and carob powder. Does the trick.
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