new to climbing and bouldering just wondering what kind of pain i can be expecting besides the usual muscle pain and cramps

makes a lot of sense any tips for avoiding that or is it just one of those thing that happen

I'd say the most common injury is tearing the A2 pully in your ring finger. Personally I've torn the A2 in my left ring finger once, and the A2 in my right middle finger twice, but I hear that the ring finger is the most common.

I think that give the title of this thread that spelling mistakes are the most common.

I think that give the title of this thread that spelling mistakes are the most common.

You beat me to it. I was going to say that the part of the brain responsible for spelling seems particularly vulnerable.

First of all, don't listen to that jump into threads, don't add anything and find it worth their time to bash your spelling.

Basically, finger injuries from crimping are the most common. The best thing you can do is preventative, don't crimp at your power limit often. Since your new to climbing, give it a couple years of keeping track of when you do/don't crimp. Maybe limit yourself to crimping hard only 2 sessions per month. Intentionally open hand holds in a relaxed hand position, even crimps.

It's easier said then done. You'll find yourself in situations regularly that you feel outside pressure to crimp. Maybe it's because all your friends are trying something and egging you on to try it. It may seem like someone else is progressing faster than you because they are training power crimping. Various situations will arise, stick to your guns, be disiplined, it will pay off in the long run.

It helps to pick any and all projects that are open handed. Leaving the crimping to below your limit climbing.

Locally, there's a notoriously crimpy difficult boulder problem. By adjusting the beta and working out atypical movement, I've almost done it only crimping one hold, out of a dozen crimps.

Looking back on the last 15 years of climbing, there are many areas that could've been improved. The one thing that would've made a larger difference than everything else combined is limiting crimping. Injuries from crimping grow compoudingly as you move up the rating scales.

My frame of reference is probably a little skewed though. The worst climbers I usually climb with can do v8 on a good day.

Mono's are up there with crimping, in terms of potential injury when using them. Probably higher. You just don't see as many mono injuries because hardly anyone climbs on mono's in the states compared to crimps. Maybe you live in a are that has them? One of my 9 finger injuries are from a v7 mono problem.

It also depends on how hard you climb, how much you weigh, etc.

If your typically climbing v5 or less crimping your putting drastically less pressure on them than say v9 plus crimping regularly.

My frame of reference is probably a little skewed though. The worst climbers I usually climb with can do v8 on a good day.

The other thing about bad mono/crimp injuries is that sometimes they takes years to heal. Whereas anytime I've had a shoulder hurting or elbow tendonitis it was easy to get rid of through preventative workouts or just plain limiting doing whatever was hurting it. With fingers you're just stuck. One of mine took five years before it stopped hurting when I climbed.

Maybe I should put it this way, if your climbing v7/5.13a and up, crimping related injuries is the most common and doing anything possible to prevent them is worth is in the long term.

I'm sure some people are different. I have a couple friends who warm up on v11 crimp problems outside on granite. They've never had an injury. Usually, these anomalies are very lightweight people. Guys who weigh 140 or less. Usually these mutants simply don't get hurt ever. Or their definition of an injury is what most of us would call being sore.