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Need help Picking shoes
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CCooley88


Apr 2, 2012, 7:08 PM
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Need help Picking shoes
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Hey, I'm having trouble deciding on shoes and wanted to get some advice. I've been climbing for about nine months and only climb in the gym working on 5.9 - 5.10s - dont know weather to get an agressive shoe os something like the Mythos with a more relaxed style. This will be my first shoe.


eric_k


Apr 3, 2012, 4:58 AM
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Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
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Go for a comfortably tight shoe. As a beginner your footwork is likely needing improvement. You will probably burn holes through any $150 plus shoe learning movement in the gym (personal experience). I would go cheap for now and get a super fancy downturned shoe when you are working on your new 12+ project. But that is just my opinion, basically get what you want and have fun. If you feel it will help you climb better that it is a good shoe for you.

Eric


shockabuku


Apr 3, 2012, 5:39 AM
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CCooley88 wrote:
Hey, I'm having trouble deciding on shoes and wanted to get some advice. I've been climbing for about nine months and only climb in the gym working on 5.9 - 5.10s - dont know weather to get an agressive shoe os something like the Mythos with a more relaxed style. This will be my first shoe.

What have you been wearing for the last nine months and what do you think about them?


Partner cracklover


Apr 3, 2012, 8:35 AM
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CCooley88 wrote:
Hey, I'm having trouble deciding on shoes and wanted to get some advice. I've been climbing for about nine months and only climb in the gym working on 5.9 - 5.10s - dont know weather to get an agressive shoe os something like the Mythos with a more relaxed style. This will be my first shoe.

1 - Whatever you buy, it should be cheap. I could explain why if you want.
2 - Not all "relaxed" shoes are the same. The Mythos does not fit me at all. You need to go try on a bunch of shoes, and find what fits.
3 - If they are unlined and made from real leather (as opposed to synthetic leather) they will stretch a bit side-to-side. Otherwise, expect very little stretch. And no shoes stretch very much back-to-front.

Good luck!

GO


CCooley88


Apr 3, 2012, 8:50 AM
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Shoes rented at the gym


edge


Apr 3, 2012, 9:03 AM
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CCooley88 wrote:
Shoes rented at the gym


What brand and style were they? How did they fit? If you want help, you need to provide some additional information.


herites


Apr 3, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Short answer: La Sportiva Katana velcro.

Long answer: buy a shoe that fits your foot, should be snug but not painfully tight. Try to avoid synthetics, they will smile like a rotten carcass and people in the gym won't like it when you take them off. Natural leather shoes stretch/form to your feet. If you start working on your footwork right now you won't destroy your new shoe fast.


GeckoBat


Apr 3, 2012, 11:01 PM
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I'm no rock star but in my experience, if the shoe fits comfortably tight, you'll be able to use them the way they were designed to be used (eg. edging, feet like claws, "bicycling", smearing, etc.). If they're painful at all, you won't put your weight on them and you'll most likely be using your hands and forearms to pull yourself up routes.

They key is finding shoes that fit your feet well, regardless of all the marketing hype, IMO.


CCooley88


Apr 7, 2012, 11:20 PM
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A fine set of lace katanas were just obtained a size and a half smaller than my regular size


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