Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Need help Picking shoes
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


CCooley88


Apr 3, 2012, 2:08 AM
Post #1 of 9 (2283 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2012
Posts: 5

Need help Picking shoes
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey, I'm having trouble deciding on shoes and wanted to get some advice. I've been climbing for about nine months and only climb in the gym working on 5.9 - 5.10s - dont know weather to get an agressive shoe os something like the Mythos with a more relaxed style. This will be my first shoe.


eric_k


Apr 3, 2012, 11:58 AM
Post #2 of 9 (2250 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 190

Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Go for a comfortably tight shoe. As a beginner your footwork is likely needing improvement. You will probably burn holes through any $150 plus shoe learning movement in the gym (personal experience). I would go cheap for now and get a super fancy downturned shoe when you are working on your new 12+ project. But that is just my opinion, basically get what you want and have fun. If you feel it will help you climb better that it is a good shoe for you.

Eric


shockabuku


Apr 3, 2012, 12:39 PM
Post #3 of 9 (2241 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

CCooley88 wrote:
Hey, I'm having trouble deciding on shoes and wanted to get some advice. I've been climbing for about nine months and only climb in the gym working on 5.9 - 5.10s - dont know weather to get an agressive shoe os something like the Mythos with a more relaxed style. This will be my first shoe.

What have you been wearing for the last nine months and what do you think about them?


Partner cracklover


Apr 3, 2012, 3:35 PM
Post #4 of 9 (2204 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

CCooley88 wrote:
Hey, I'm having trouble deciding on shoes and wanted to get some advice. I've been climbing for about nine months and only climb in the gym working on 5.9 - 5.10s - dont know weather to get an agressive shoe os something like the Mythos with a more relaxed style. This will be my first shoe.

1 - Whatever you buy, it should be cheap. I could explain why if you want.
2 - Not all "relaxed" shoes are the same. The Mythos does not fit me at all. You need to go try on a bunch of shoes, and find what fits.
3 - If they are unlined and made from real leather (as opposed to synthetic leather) they will stretch a bit side-to-side. Otherwise, expect very little stretch. And no shoes stretch very much back-to-front.

Good luck!

GO


CCooley88


Apr 3, 2012, 3:50 PM
Post #5 of 9 (2199 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2012
Posts: 5

Re: [shockabuku] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Shoes rented at the gym


edge


Apr 3, 2012, 4:03 PM
Post #6 of 9 (2192 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120

Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

CCooley88 wrote:
Shoes rented at the gym


What brand and style were they? How did they fit? If you want help, you need to provide some additional information.


herites


Apr 3, 2012, 6:02 PM
Post #7 of 9 (2156 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210

Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Short answer: La Sportiva Katana velcro.

Long answer: buy a shoe that fits your foot, should be snug but not painfully tight. Try to avoid synthetics, they will smile like a rotten carcass and people in the gym won't like it when you take them off. Natural leather shoes stretch/form to your feet. If you start working on your footwork right now you won't destroy your new shoe fast.


GeckoBat


Apr 4, 2012, 6:01 AM
Post #8 of 9 (2106 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2011
Posts: 46

Re: [CCooley88] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm no rock star but in my experience, if the shoe fits comfortably tight, you'll be able to use them the way they were designed to be used (eg. edging, feet like claws, "bicycling", smearing, etc.). If they're painful at all, you won't put your weight on them and you'll most likely be using your hands and forearms to pull yourself up routes.

They key is finding shoes that fit your feet well, regardless of all the marketing hype, IMO.


CCooley88


Apr 8, 2012, 6:20 AM
Post #9 of 9 (1986 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2012
Posts: 5

Re: [herites] Need help Picking shoes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A fine set of lace katanas were just obtained a size and a half smaller than my regular size


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook