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Gmburns2000
Mar 21, 2012, 1:04 PM
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Nice TR Dip. Some nice routes.
Yeah, the rest of DoWT is pretty sweet. The whole climb is nice to the top, except maybe the final pitch.
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gblauer
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Mar 26, 2012, 1:36 AM
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I climbed at the gunks on Friday and Saturday.
Friday I climbed with Bett from 3PM-7PM. We stayed in the Uberfall and swapped leads. A bit of a breakthough for me; I had Bett belay me on an 8. I am now trusting her (and my climbing) to let her belay me on harder climbs. This will open many doors for our climbing.
On Saturday, I was a passenger. I followed my friend Michael. Michael is training for a climbing trip to Alaska and he wanted to climb as quickly and as long as possible.
We started at 8:30AM and finished at 7PM. We started on Three Doves, followed by Arrow, Nurses Aid, Protocscope, Feast of Fools, Proctor Silex, Erect Direction to Step LIvely. On the way out, we ran up Arrow(again) in one long pitch as
quickly as we could. Michael clipped the pin on P1 and clipped the pin/bolts on P2. Easy cleaning for me! I think we finished Arrow in 8 minutes total.
I had never climbed Proctor Silex; it was ok, not great. Not worth a repeat. Nor had I climbed Step Lively. P2 is a bit of a tricky 10. I think there are better climbs out there. No stars in the Gray Dick, but it is bolded. We figured we would try something new.
Nurse's Aid has a very thin set of face moves on P1. I found these to be the crux. The roof was fine (my forte) and I was happy to follow it clean.
I was completely spent when we were done (Michael had more energy, but, mercifully we running out of daylight). I came home, made dinner, Mitch rubbed my totally aching feet and then slept like a rock.
I took Sunday off, just too beat up to climb. A great weekend all around.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Mar 26, 2012, 2:40 AM)
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sethg
Mar 26, 2012, 2:35 AM
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Holy moly, that sounds amazing!
Which 8 did you lead?
Your Saturday sounds pretty good too.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 26, 2012, 1:36 PM
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Micheal is a beast.
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losbill
Mar 28, 2012, 6:09 AM
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dagibbs wrote: Currently in El Potrero Chico. Estrellita today. More trip report, hopefully, when I get back.
Disclaimer: End of a very, very long day. I have three glasses of wine on board. End of Disclaimer
DA unless I have missed something we have yet to see your Portero Chico TR.
(This post was edited by losbill on Mar 28, 2012, 6:40 AM)
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losbill
Mar 28, 2012, 6:15 AM
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Dip great TR. Reading it had me laughing as I compared it to similar experiences at Red Rock. Sounds as if you got some climbing done while enjoying the company of some good friends! Excellent! Looking forward to hooking up at the Gunks this year and sharing climbs, beers and stories.
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losbill
Mar 28, 2012, 6:28 AM
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Gail you are an animal! Wow what a day with Micheal! Thinking about it wasn't the last time I saw you sometime in November as you were following Micheal up Feast of Fools at the end of another completely crazy day of climbing? Good deal with Bett. She is obviously someone who really loves to climb. Easily 90%+ of what you look for in a partner.
Hope you have the camp fire wood and some'mores fixin's stockpiled. See you in the backyard soon! Best to Mitch!
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losbill
Mar 28, 2012, 6:37 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: gblauer wrote: Sport or trad? It's been cold here. Too cold for rock climbing, too warm for ice (at least for this novice ice climber, the ice is thin). There have been several 45 degree days, alas, I was not at the gunks on those days. Hoping to get out next weekend. I hosted a work event at Brooklyn Boulders this past Saturday. The Pros: Huge gym, and a great, relaxed vibe. Cons: Unreal crowds, short walls, very dense setting, no parking. It's always fun taking the lead test at new gyms isn't it? I have taken at least 10 lead tests and every gym is different. At Metro Rock in Boston you can select any route, lead it and I don't think they ask you to take a fall. At PRG (my local gym) they set up a specific lead test (usually a 5.8) and they ask you to take a fall then finish the climb. At BB they too had a specific lead test, it was in the 5.10ish range, reachy for this shorty, with lots of bumps (i.e. more technical than most lead tests). Had to take a fall somewhere after the third bolt. They explained that since their lead area was small, they didn't want a lot of lead climbers, hence the 5.10. While at BB I had the privilege of watching Ashima Shiraishi (~11 years old) climb. I recognized her from a video I saw on ABC news. She is a tiny little thing who manages to make the 12's look like 6's. She took first place at Nationals for the 11 and under wunderkids. Planning a trip to Arizona to kick off the spring season, I think we are going to Cochise. Expect to spend the summer at the gunks and then head to the Dolomites in late August for two weeks of climbing. Mostly sport, but there are gear route with bolts on them. That Dolomites thing sounds interesting. I might be in Spain at that point. My gym here just wants to make sure you clip correctly. They're more interested in conducting a lead-belay test than a lead test.
Okay, if I can just close a deal or two in the next few weeks screw the Meadows I'm booking Spain. Could be a real great trip climbing, drinking, eating, me and Mitch smoking good cigars, Greg and I talking literature, Gail and I climbing. Yeah! It is all starting to come together. Hell, I could even bring along my completely hard-ass Brit rope gun with Dolomites experience. Anyone it the mood for getting "pee you pants sketched"?
(This post was edited by losbill on Mar 28, 2012, 6:42 AM)
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Dip
Mar 28, 2012, 12:17 PM
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losbill wrote: Dip great TR. Reading it had me laughing as I compared it to similar experiences at Red Rock. Sounds as if you got some climbing done while enjoying the company of some good friends! Excellent! Looking forward to hooking up at the Gunks this year and sharing climbs, beers and stories.
Thanks Bill, ditto on the Gunks. Psyched to get that season under way. I think i'll be there Saturday 4/7 if the weather's okay. Look me up if you're around.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 28, 2012, 12:35 PM
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losbill wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: gblauer wrote: Sport or trad? It's been cold here. Too cold for rock climbing, too warm for ice (at least for this novice ice climber, the ice is thin). There have been several 45 degree days, alas, I was not at the gunks on those days. Hoping to get out next weekend. I hosted a work event at Brooklyn Boulders this past Saturday. The Pros: Huge gym, and a great, relaxed vibe. Cons: Unreal crowds, short walls, very dense setting, no parking. It's always fun taking the lead test at new gyms isn't it? I have taken at least 10 lead tests and every gym is different. At Metro Rock in Boston you can select any route, lead it and I don't think they ask you to take a fall. At PRG (my local gym) they set up a specific lead test (usually a 5.8) and they ask you to take a fall then finish the climb. At BB they too had a specific lead test, it was in the 5.10ish range, reachy for this shorty, with lots of bumps (i.e. more technical than most lead tests). Had to take a fall somewhere after the third bolt. They explained that since their lead area was small, they didn't want a lot of lead climbers, hence the 5.10. While at BB I had the privilege of watching Ashima Shiraishi (~11 years old) climb. I recognized her from a video I saw on ABC news. She is a tiny little thing who manages to make the 12's look like 6's. She took first place at Nationals for the 11 and under wunderkids. Planning a trip to Arizona to kick off the spring season, I think we are going to Cochise. Expect to spend the summer at the gunks and then head to the Dolomites in late August for two weeks of climbing. Mostly sport, but there are gear route with bolts on them. That Dolomites thing sounds interesting. I might be in Spain at that point. My gym here just wants to make sure you clip correctly. They're more interested in conducting a lead-belay test than a lead test. Okay, if I can just close a deal or two in the next few weeks screw the Meadows I'm booking Spain. Could be a real great trip climbing, drinking, eating, me and Mitch smoking good cigars, Greg and I talking literature, Gail and I climbing. Yeah! It is all starting to come together. Hell, I could even bring along my completely hard-ass Brit rope gun with Dolomites experience. Anyone it the mood for getting "pee you pants sketched"?
Definitely fourth glass, or at least the start of the second bottle. 
Spain for me will likely be next January (unless something dramatic happens to my finances in the next few months, then it'll be longer).
Chris (KITT, from Germany) will likely be visiting, as could possibly our resident strange guy Magnus for a trip to El Chorro, supposedly one of Europe's top sport winter destinations. It's near Seville, which is where I'll be for a month or so. Of course, everyone is welcome.
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gblauer
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Mar 28, 2012, 12:37 PM
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losbill wrote: Gail Hope you have the camp fire wood and some'mores fixin's stockpiled. See you in the backyard soon! Best to Mitch!
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dagibbs
Mar 28, 2012, 4:49 PM
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losbill wrote: dagibbs wrote: Currently in El Potrero Chico. Estrellita today. More trip report, hopefully, when I get back. Disclaimer: End of a very, very long day. I have three glasses of wine on board. End of Disclaimer DA unless I have missed something we have yet to see your Portero Chico TR.
I flew back home on Sunday, I flew out on a business trip on Monday. I'm still catching up on stuff -- but there will be a TR coming up at some point.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 29, 2012, 9:02 PM
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That's too bad about the bobcat. sorry to hear that.
looks as if you had a nice week of climbing though.
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gblauer
Moderator
Mar 30, 2012, 2:48 AM
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congrats on the 12 send!
Total bummer for the bobcat.
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Dip
Apr 4, 2012, 5:28 PM
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What's the MUA like on a Friday night this time of year? I can't leave Harrisburg until sometime between 4:00 and 8:00 this Friday night, and i'm a little worried i'll have nowhere to camp if i roll into town close to midnight. It's supposed to be really nice this weekend, but i'm hoping it's too early in the season / too cold at night for camp to get crowded?
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Gmburns2000
Apr 4, 2012, 5:54 PM
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Dip wrote: What's the MUA like on a Friday night this time of year? I can't leave Harrisburg until sometime between 4:00 and 8:00 this Friday night, and i'm a little worried i'll have nowhere to camp if i roll into town close to midnight. It's supposed to be really nice this weekend, but i'm hoping it's too early in the season / too cold at night for camp to get crowded?
Since the closure of one side of the street, and since I have stayed at the MUA only twice (both times were not my fault), I can't comment exactly on your question. However, for reference, I've shown up at midnight on a Friday night in the middle of June, July, August, September, and / or October at Slime and always found at least one spot.
So, in my opinion, with it being early April, you're good to go.
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gblauer
Moderator
Apr 4, 2012, 7:01 PM
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I never stay there. I would say that it has been VERY crowded and you will not likely find a space in the MUA.
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Dip
Apr 4, 2012, 7:04 PM
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gblauer wrote: I never stay there. I would say that it has been VERY crowded and you will not likely find a space in the MUA.
And i'd have a better shot at Slime? I usually only go to the gunks during the week so i've never had a problem. Here's a stupid question, where does one park for Slime? I know where the camp is located, i've just never taken note of how to get in there...
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Gmburns2000
Apr 4, 2012, 7:17 PM
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Dip wrote: gblauer wrote: I never stay there. I would say that it has been VERY crowded and you will not likely find a space in the MUA. And i'd have a better shot at Slime? I usually only go to the gunks during the week so i've never had a problem. Here's a stupid question, where does one park for Slime? I know where the camp is located, i've just never taken note of how to get in there...
you can drive in the handicap lot to unload, but then you have to drive down and park in the West Trapps parking lot and walk back up to the bridge. There are strips of paper that you need to fill out. You can find them at the booth at Slime. Put one on your campsite and the other in the dash of your car.
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Dip
Apr 4, 2012, 7:19 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Dip wrote: gblauer wrote: I never stay there. I would say that it has been VERY crowded and you will not likely find a space in the MUA. And i'd have a better shot at Slime? I usually only go to the gunks during the week so i've never had a problem. Here's a stupid question, where does one park for Slime? I know where the camp is located, i've just never taken note of how to get in there... you can drive in the handicap lot to unload, but then you have to drive down and park in the West Trapps parking lot and walk back up to the bridge. There are strips of paper that you need to fill out. You can find them at the booth at Slime. Put one on your campsite and the other in the dash of your car.
Cool. Thanks.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 4, 2012, 7:20 PM
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the handicap lot, btw, is almost immediately before the bridge on the left as you're coming up from the visitor's center.
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losbill
Apr 4, 2012, 8:29 PM
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Zeal ditto what Gail said!
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gblauer
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Apr 9, 2012, 12:31 AM
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Not a great climbing weekend for me.
I climbed on Friday with my friend Michael. He is training for a big trip to Alaska, so volume was key. We warmed up on Ant's LIne and then did a century (10 pitches of 10's). Regrettably, I had been to my trainer on Thursday and I felt so damn weak on Friday, I could barely climb. Yet, I had to keep up with Michael's training or I would risk being a bad partner and ruining his training. When I climb with MIchael I expect a few things; he leads everything, very little gear (especially protecting the 2nd) and long climbs. He usually runs most climbs in a single pitch. As such, I have to be very careful at the start of my climbs. A fall at the start would likely be a ground fall with rope stretch.
Ant's line was fine (I need to lead it), but then we did Space Invaders (10d). Space Invaders has a tough little crux, especially when you are dead tired. I actually had to take a hang at the crux. I couldn't get out his gear (he plugged the cam too deep and I could not get to the trigger wires. Ended up hanging and using a nut tool to get the cam out). If you are looking for a burly 10, try this one! We then ran up the 10b variation of Obstacle Delusion. There is one really long/hard move on this climb for this shorty. I literally throw for a giant jug. I can't get it statically. I was sooo tired, I could hardly hang on to anything. My forearms were spent (in my training sessions I do a lot of finger/forearm work and clearly I was not recovered). Michael wanted to run all of the "issimas". Doubleissima went down fine, but, I was really humping to get through it with out a hang. I knew that Ridiculissima was going to be very hard, I typically fall off right below the roof, going for a long move to a small jug. This time, I concentrated on my footwork all the way up, even though I was dead tired and could barely hang on to anything, I managed to follow the climb cleanly for the first time ever.
My confidence a bit boosted, we decided to do Face to Face. Michael lead through the R section down below (where do you get those nerves of steel?) and brought me up to the GT ledge. I had never done the second pitch of face to face. You climb a face to a large left facing corner, then execute an airy traverse (which I had to campus, my feet did not reach the face below) and then move up on to the face again into an really strange notch. The move in the notch is much easier if you can sink your back against one side and then work your feet up against the opposite side. This shorty only had her shoulder in the notch, I found the move to be very difficult, reachy, technical and burly. We finished up on the 10+ variation of THree vultures. Three very burly and distinct cruxes on this climb. I would like to get try it again, fresh, because I thought it felt much harder than a 10.
We stayed on the GT ledge and did Keep on Struttin. So this is a 9? Getting off the ledge is hard, it's a long reach to the jugs. I took a couple of attempts but finally made the move. Easy climbing to the bolt, then things heat up as you move through a series of jugs. Another burly climb.
I was very glad when the day was over, I was tired, sore and felt like I really let Michael down. I slowed him down and just couldn't keep up as I had the week before.
On Saturday Mitch and I were the last car in the Trapps lot. It was Mitch's first attempt at climbing since he tweaked his knee skiing. We started on Harvard (we had never done it, it was open on a VERY busy Saturday). He squeezed through the chimney and battled a bit of fear all the way up to the tree on Trapped like a Rat. He hasn't climbed/lead for weeks, he did a great job picking his way up. BTW, this really isn't a 5.2. There are some tricky moves (well protected) that require some thought.
I thought about leading Trapped like a Rat, it really takes gear. I am so glad I didn't. The bottom is so strange. I can't really figure out the 5.7 way. I am sure I do it the 5.9 way, even so it's very awkward. Then after you do the knife edge move as I was reaching to the jug, I nearly put my hand in to a group of hornets who were building a nest. Fortunately they seemed cold and were moving really slowly. I narrowly averted being stung by a bunch of them. The rest of the climb looks easy, but is really strange. Again, I am glad I didn't lead it, even though it would totally eat gear.
Amazingly enough Jackie was open, so we ran up Jackie to the top, Classic to the top and then finished up on Dennis. Mitch got mad at me because I didn't place any gear on Dennis between the slab and the vertical face. He's right, although super easy climbing, I would have had a groundfall if I had slipped.
We had a fun day on the moderates; Mitch lead well and his knee and wrist held up pretty well. We had to rush home because we were hosting a dinner party. Indian themed menu, followed by dessert around the fire made it a very full and complete day.
Today I powerwashed the front porch, cleaned the grill and then hit the cliff at 3PM. I just wanted to run laps to get a burn. I didn't really get a burn because we picked a stupid face; The Brat. The whole face is slabby and it doesn't lend itself to quick, burning laps. It's delicate and balancey. Oh well, I ran 6 runs and then finished our day at Neko's. Mitch drove home, I will stay here, hike early in the AM and then head to my client.
I will be up next weekend and climbing with my friend Olivier. I hope I feel a heck of a lot better next weekend than I did this weekend. I have goals!
(This post was edited by gblauer on Apr 9, 2012, 12:48 AM)
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Dip
Apr 9, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Saturday was my first visit to the Gunks this year, and it was a good one. Got into town Friday night at nine, where fortunately a few friends already had a spot at the MUA. After setting up camp and having a beer, i noticed the full moon and asked if anyone wanted to go climb high e, which to my delight someone did. We got to the cliff at around 11:00, i took the first pitch and my buddy took the second. Really awesome experience, so glad we did it. Got back to camp around 1:00 and although tired could not for the life of me fall asleep, thanks in part to the group across the creek yelling at the top of their lungs until 6:00a.m. Several times i wondered if i could throw a rock that far.
At 8:00 after a short night of fitful sleep we woke and went to the mountain store for breakfast, then hit the stairmaster. Scored an annual pass to help force myself to make a lot of trips up there this year, then made a bee line for the far end of the cliffs in an effort to avoid the crowds. Started our day on Airy Aria, which we split into two pitches to the GT. Once there I had a bit of a reading comprehension fail. I misread the grey dick and thought it said two raps with one 50 will get just barely get you down. Turns out it said 1 rap with 2 50's.... so after constructing a rap anchor on the ledge just above the tree we found ourselves back on the ground.
Now i had to go get my gear back so i did Lisa. The first pitch was great, slightly strenuous and solid at 5.9. The second pitch, as expected, was a dirty mess but i liked the position and thought it wouldn't be a bad pitch if it saw more traffic. Once on the GT we rapped (with two ropes this time) to the ledge where i recovered my gear, then continued back to earth.
I was super tired now as the lack of sleep was really catching up with me, but i didn't drive all that way for one day to come home early, so we walked up to Ursula in the hopes that it may be empty, which thankfully it was. That was by far my favorite climb of the day, as that second pitch is just good clean fun.
The sun was getting low in the sky when we got down and we were both exhausted, so we walked down the stairmaster to the car then did the old 87 to 84 to 81 back to Harrisburg, where i woke Sunday morning and enjoyred my son's 3rd birthday. Pretty great weekend, psyched to get back.
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