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meatbomz
Apr 8, 2012, 9:28 PM
Post #91126 of 99563
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Well this place is hopping.
Just got a text from the DA.
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camhead
Apr 9, 2012, 4:39 AM
Post #91127 of 99563
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA.
Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy!
Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard.
Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing.
Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl.
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drivel
Apr 9, 2012, 6:39 AM
Post #91128 of 99563
(1170 views)
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl.
you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN.
it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 9, 2012, 7:16 AM
Post #91129 of 99563
(1162 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 4801
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drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream.
Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already.
The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness.
and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez!
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dr_feelgood
Apr 9, 2012, 7:33 AM
Post #91130 of 99563
(1160 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25315
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl.
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 8:13 AM
Post #91131 of 99563
(1149 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14044
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Reminder for the Clamhats: In previous years my cell phone doesn't seem to work (at least not very well) down in the Gnu. Text at your own risk. hmm, does chossy's phone work? Where you planning on climbing? I'm thinking 1st Butt on the Meadow on Sat, and Summersville on Sun. Conditions are looking awesome, too!
Nathan doesn't have a cell phone.
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 8:14 AM
Post #91132 of 99563
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14044
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snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Reminder for the Clamhats: In previous years my cell phone doesn't seem to work (at least not very well) down in the Gnu. Text at your own risk. Yeah, you had the same problem at the Red, did you not? Reminder for myself: Anytime I want to avoid the Chossy Marmots, all I need to do is pretend that the text just didn't go through. if you'd been a teenager in this country, you'd know that trick already. though I'm surprised you haven't picked it up with the online datings. wouldn't she have had to be a teenager in this country and be your age? I certainly didn't haz a cell phone in high school.
He haz a poynte.
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 8:25 AM
Post #91133 of 99563
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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lena_chita wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Reminder for the Clamhats: In previous years my cell phone doesn't seem to work (at least not very well) down in the Gnu. Text at your own risk. Yeah, you had the same problem at the Red, did you not? Reminder for myself: Anytime I want to avoid the Chossy Marmots, all I need to do is pretend that the text just didn't go through. if you'd been a teenager in this country, you'd know that trick already. though I'm surprised you haven't picked it up with the online datings. wouldn't she have had to be a teenager in this country and be your age? I certainly didn't haz a cell phone in high school. I didn't have a cell phone in college. Kidz these dayz. ...talkin bout mah generation... I got my first cell phone when my parents dropped me off at my first college dorm, so I could 'keep in touch'. I think I was 23 when I got one, the week before I started law school. Yeah, I was in grad school when I got my first cell phone. It was a big shoulder bag with laptop-sized battery... ...fast forward to my 13 yo (who has had the phone since he was 10 yo) lifting his head up from his personal laptop long enough to complain that he's the ONLY one of his friends who doesn't have a smart phone, and my 9yo (who got her cell phone at the age of 8) asking why she can't have unlimited texting on hers.
I wish someone would buy me a new personal laptop and a smart phone.
just saying
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 8:31 AM
Post #91134 of 99563
(1141 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14044
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lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez!
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Apr 9, 2012, 8:35 AM
Post #91135 of 99563
(1140 views)
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 9530
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Reminder for the Clamhats: In previous years my cell phone doesn't seem to work (at least not very well) down in the Gnu. Text at your own risk. Yeah, you had the same problem at the Red, did you not? Reminder for myself: Anytime I want to avoid the Chossy Marmots, all I need to do is pretend that the text just didn't go through. if you'd been a teenager in this country, you'd know that trick already. though I'm surprised you haven't picked it up with the online datings. wouldn't she have had to be a teenager in this country and be your age? I certainly didn't haz a cell phone in high school. I didn't have a cell phone in college. Kidz these dayz. ...talkin bout mah generation... I got my first cell phone when my parents dropped me off at my first college dorm, so I could 'keep in touch'. I think I was 23 when I got one, the week before I started law school. Yeah, I was in grad school when I got my first cell phone. It was a big shoulder bag with laptop-sized battery... ...fast forward to my 13 yo (who has had the phone since he was 10 yo) lifting his head up from his personal laptop long enough to complain that he's the ONLY one of his friends who doesn't have a smart phone, and my 9yo (who got her cell phone at the age of 8) asking why she can't have unlimited texting on hers. I wish someone would buy me a new personal laptop and a smart phone. just saying
Me too.
Blah. I think this is my last Monday of freedom. Waiting to find out if I go back to work on Monday.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 8:53 AM
Post #91136 of 99563
(1135 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28101
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy!
that was my first thought.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 8:55 AM
Post #91137 of 99563
(1133 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28101
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. Where is my umbrella?
come on, doc, it's monday, and kamhed had announced last weke that he'd be at teh gnu. you should have this shit prepared.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 8:56 AM
Post #91138 of 99563
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28101
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez! Fortunatly no one was around to see the crime spree and the weak-moness of the marmots. Nathan's head was way off for climbing on the gears, and mine wasn't much better. All in all I had a good weekend though. I'm pretty happy to say that while I still suck as crack climbing I feel I noticed improvements.
did you take my suggestion and stop being sick before the weke end?
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 9:12 AM
Post #91139 of 99563
(1125 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14044
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez! Fortunatly no one was around to see the crime spree and the weak-moness of the marmots. Nathan's head was way off for climbing on the gears, and mine wasn't much better. All in all I had a good weekend though. I'm pretty happy to say that while I still suck as crack climbing I feel I noticed improvements. did you take my suggestion and stop being sick before the weke end?
No. That was another problem.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 9, 2012, 9:47 AM
Post #91140 of 99563
(1111 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 4801
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez! Fortunatly no one was around to see the crime spree and the weak-moness of the marmots. Nathan's head was way off for climbing on the gears, and mine wasn't much better. All in all I had a good weekend though. I'm pretty happy to say that while I still suck as crack climbing I feel I noticed improvements. did you take my suggestion and stop being sick before the weke end? No. That was another problem.
Yeah, being sick sucks.
I haven't used this particular excuse ever before (and hope to never use it again), but when everything in front of you starts swimming and turning black the moment you start breathing hard, that is not good!!!! Just saying.
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 9:53 AM
Post #91141 of 99563
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14044
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez! Fortunatly no one was around to see the crime spree and the weak-moness of the marmots. Nathan's head was way off for climbing on the gears, and mine wasn't much better. All in all I had a good weekend though. I'm pretty happy to say that while I still suck as crack climbing I feel I noticed improvements. did you take my suggestion and stop being sick before the weke end? No. That was another problem. Yeah, being sick sucks. I haven't used this particular excuse ever before (and hope to never use it again), but when everything in front of you starts swimming and turning black the moment you start breathing hard, that is not good!!!! Just saying.
Well, I wasn't that sick. I just needed to bring a box of tissues and a large bag of cough drops to the crag.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 10:14 AM
Post #91142 of 99563
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Posts: 28101
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez! Fortunatly no one was around to see the crime spree and the weak-moness of the marmots. Nathan's head was way off for climbing on the gears, and mine wasn't much better. All in all I had a good weekend though. I'm pretty happy to say that while I still suck as crack climbing I feel I noticed improvements. did you take my suggestion and stop being sick before the weke end? No. That was another problem.
and here I thought it was pretty good advice.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 10:20 AM
Post #91143 of 99563
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28101
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as for my weke end climbing of teh climbs ... started out bad when I winged off the warmup, which I usually have no trouble with when I'm in shape. but minimal climbing the last month and a half left me weker than usual. then I winged off the warmup trying to lead it again. eventually got a clean Tronsight on the sic gnar, finished with a clean tr burn on the warmup as well. crowded day at the hole, I think the iselchay was the only route that didn't get done.
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dr_feelgood
Apr 9, 2012, 11:37 AM
Post #91144 of 99563
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25315
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snoopy138 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. Where is my umbrella? come on, doc, it's monday, and kamhed had announced last weke that he'd be at teh gnu. you should have this shit prepared.
I'm slipping. My GU is weke, and my umbrella is in my truck. Help me, Lawd!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 9, 2012, 11:43 AM
Post #91145 of 99563
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 4801
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: Well this place is hopping. Just got a text from the DA. Devil's_Advocate? I loved that guy! Another awesome weakend at the New. Got on a new route called Black Crack, which apparently Croft onsited for teh FA, pissing off the locals. It's in the middle of a steep spurt crag, so nobody does it. Starts with four bolts of bouldery climbing, then joins a crack for a bunch of 12a fingerlocks separated by REALLY big jugs. Then, about 60 feet up, there's a hard crimp traverse to the right, where you hit a SPLITTER big .4 camalot crack, about 30 degrees overhanging, totally physical and straightforward and hard. Rope drag was pretty bad, so I had to remove a lot of the directionals, too many, it turned out, to toprope easily. Dribble TR'd it, fell at the traverse, and could not get back on the route. I offered to go back up it to clip in some directionals, but nobody would let me TR it with the danger of cratering or hitting trees while climbing the first section without directionals. So, we took an existing other TR on an adjacent route, and I did this awesome clusterfuck of a double rope, twinbelayer toprope. PIcs will follow, it was way embarrassing. Yesterday went back to the Lake, dribble made highpoints on Apollo, I gt half a move better on Pod, we talked shit on and with the Chossmarmots before they drove home. Good weekend. That is awl. you forgot to add that zaturday, after you went through the trouble of re-directionalling black crack, jojo had somehow promised to clean all three lines we still had strung up, and you had to go BACK up black crack to clean it on TR, jojo TR-cleaned his proj, and I had to embarrass my way up the line I was working on lead AGAIN. it was pathetic. and then we went and had ice cream. Spiritual crimez were many and varied this weekend. Something tells me that the photographic evidence had been erased from camhead's camera already. The only thing stronger than spiritual crimes was my weakness. and ice cream... yeah, definitely spiritual crimez! Fortunatly no one was around to see the crime spree and the weak-moness of the marmots. Nathan's head was way off for climbing on the gears, and mine wasn't much better. All in all I had a good weekend though. I'm pretty happy to say that while I still suck as crack climbing I feel I noticed improvements. did you take my suggestion and stop being sick before the weke end? No. That was another problem. Yeah, being sick sucks. I haven't used this particular excuse ever before (and hope to never use it again), but when everything in front of you starts swimming and turning black the moment you start breathing hard, that is not good!!!! Just saying. Well, I wasn't that sick. I just needed to bring a box of tissues and a large bag of cough drops to the crag.
I was.
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caughtinside
Apr 9, 2012, 11:55 AM
Post #91146 of 99563
(1066 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30105
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Last time I climbed sick was in red rocks. Flashed some 10, hung on 11, puked in Kels gutter. Seeing spots. Good times.
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2012, 12:02 PM
Post #91147 of 99563
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14044
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I've definitly had hangovers far worse for my climbing than this cold was.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 12:16 PM
Post #91148 of 99563
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: Last time I climbed sick was in red rocks. Flashed some 10, hung on 11, puked in Kelsnicedave's gutter. spent the next weke on the couch there. Seeing spots. Good times.
fixied
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Apr 9, 2012, 1:05 PM
Post #91149 of 99563
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 9530
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Last time I climbed sick was in red rocks. Flashed some 10, hung on 11, puked in Kelsnicedouchebagdave's gutter. spent the next weke on the couch there. Seeing spots. Good times. fixied
fixied
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2012, 2:09 PM
Post #91150 of 99563
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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climbs4fun wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Last time I climbed sick was in red rocks. Flashed some 10, hung on 11, puked in Kelsnicedouchebagdave's gutter. spent the next weke on the couch there. Seeing spots. Good times. fixied fixied
it was nicedave at the time.
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