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deBrice


Apr 10, 2012, 9:34 AM
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Starting a trad rack
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Hi guys,

I'm gonna die, I'm climbing way too often those days. My climbing partner and me had a good sport route weekend but some bolt were missing (not really missing, just long stretches without any as it was becoming juggy) and having just a little bit of knowledge of trad and some hardware would have helped. So I read a little about trad and learn that a good start is to setup a top rope and experiment. So, if you were me, which ingredient would you put on my rack for a start?

God, I'm so gonna die if I start trad :D


Kartessa


Apr 10, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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Nuts


Kartessa


Apr 10, 2012, 10:04 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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It may also stand to reason that you were either

a) on a mixed route - often bolts are just placed where gear won't work
Or
b) on a well-below grade section of the climb where protection wasn't really necessary.


deBrice


Apr 10, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
It may also stand to reason that you were either

a) on a mixed route - often bolts are just placed where gear won't work
Or
b) on a well-below grade section of the climb where protection wasn't really necessary.

Yes, I think it was the second case, it was becoming way too juggy for a 5.11. It was just a stretch. But we saw some route that were mixed too and those were looking very nice.


(This post was edited by deBrice on Apr 10, 2012, 10:25 AM)


deBrice


Apr 10, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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So a simple set of nut would be a good start? I tend to shop at REI, I saw that they have B.Diamond and Camp USA. Any recommendation? I read that a nut tool can be useful too, Agree?


(This post was edited by deBrice on Apr 10, 2012, 10:32 AM)


edge


Apr 10, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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deBrice wrote:
So a simple set of nut would be a good start? I tend to shop at REI, I saw that they have B.Diamond and Camp USA. Any recommendation? I read that a nut tool can be useful too, Agree?

ABC Huevos seem to be the best value for an initial set of stoppers, and yes, you should invest in a nut tool. It will pay for itself almost immediately, particularly if you are just learning.

Having said that, I have a full set of Chouinard stoppers, which are basically the same as BD and also highly recommended.


qwert


Apr 10, 2012, 12:03 PM
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Yes - nuts (or rocks, or chocks, or stoppers, or whatever they are called) are generally a good start.

They are (relatively) inexpensive, very versatile (you will always find a use for them, no matter if trad, mixed (sport/trad), alpine or mixed (ice/rock)), durable and you can get them in nice colors Cool

Brand?

Everyone has certain preferences. As long as you dont get something really fancy that will not have any benefits in 95% of use cases (i.e. simond camerocks, OP tri-nuts, camp bolos) or really specialised (WC ultralight rocks, brassies) about any brand will do. Just get the ones whose color and price you like. As long as its CE certified, it wont matter if its a big brand (DMM, Black Diamond, Wild Country,) or a cheaper one (ABC, RockEmpire,)

And yes, a nut tool is essential! (or better two - can come in handy for both, leader and follower)

qwert


dagibbs


Apr 10, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Re: [qwert] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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qwert wrote:
And yes, a nut tool is essential! (or better two - can come in handy for both, leader and follower)

Since he is probably just supplementing bolts on single-pitch climbs, he can probably get away with a single nut tool for a while. Leader takes it with him, then after lower-off, hands it to follower for the cleaning side of things.


edge


Apr 10, 2012, 12:33 PM
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dagibbs wrote:
qwert wrote:
And yes, a nut tool is essential! (or better two - can come in handy for both, leader and follower)

Since he is probably just supplementing bolts on single-pitch climbs, he can probably get away with a single nut tool for a while. Leader takes it with him, then after lower-off, hands it to follower for the cleaning side of things.

I never carry one as a leader. If a nut gets stuck on lead, thats kind of what I'm hoping for; just clip it and go, or back it up if you don't like it. Generally it's too much work to be futzing around with a stuck nut on the lead. On multi-pitch we just pass it back and forth after the rack exchange.


sbaclimber


Apr 10, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Re: [edge] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
qwert wrote:
And yes, a nut tool is essential! (or better two - can come in handy for both, leader and follower)

Since he is probably just supplementing bolts on single-pitch climbs, he can probably get away with a single nut tool for a while. Leader takes it with him, then after lower-off, hands it to follower for the cleaning side of things.

I never carry one as a leader.
I do carry one as a leader....but 98% of the time it isn't used to un-stick gear, but rather to clean cracks, remove loose rocks/holds, and fish webbing/cord through threads.


bearbreeder


Apr 10, 2012, 1:31 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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always carry a nut tool up here on lead ... clean the moss and choss out of cracks ... especially at the start of the season

a wirebrush on lead may not be out of order either on less travelled climbs Tongue


dagibbs


Apr 10, 2012, 1:42 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
qwert wrote:
And yes, a nut tool is essential! (or better two - can come in handy for both, leader and follower)

Since he is probably just supplementing bolts on single-pitch climbs, he can probably get away with a single nut tool for a while. Leader takes it with him, then after lower-off, hands it to follower for the cleaning side of things.

I never carry one as a leader.
I do carry one as a leader....but 98% of the time it isn't used to un-stick gear, but rather to clean cracks, remove loose rocks/holds, and fish webbing/cord through threads.

Yup, this.


deBrice


Apr 10, 2012, 3:25 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
qwert wrote:
And yes, a nut tool is essential! (or better two - can come in handy for both, leader and follower)

Since he is probably just supplementing bolts on single-pitch climbs, he can probably get away with a single nut tool for a while. Leader takes it with him, then after lower-off, hands it to follower for the cleaning side of things.

I never carry one as a leader.
I do carry one as a leader....but 98% of the time it isn't used to un-stick gear, but rather to clean cracks, remove loose rocks/holds, and fish webbing/cord through threads.

Yup, this.

Ok, so I'll go with a set of nuts (probably black diamond, I know the brand doesn't matter much but I liked their harness) and will also by a nut tool. Just one thing, I shouldn't buy any cam yet, or is there one or two that are kind of the "essential" that I can buy now to play with?


bearbreeder


Apr 10, 2012, 3:51 PM
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Re: [deBrice] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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are the cracks parallel or constricting ...

what matters is not whether someone on RC tells you to buy NUTS NUTS NUTS or something else

but the nature of the protection opportunities in the rock

if its like any of the mixed routes up here, youll likely need both nuts and cams eventually

Wink


deBrice


Apr 10, 2012, 8:47 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
are the cracks parallel or constricting ...

what matters is not whether someone on RC tells you to buy NUTS NUTS NUTS or something else

but the nature of the protection opportunities in the rock

if its like any of the mixed routes up here, youll likely need both nuts and cams eventually

Wink

I'm not climbing always the same rock (sandstone and granit) and with different feature. I'm convinced at some point I will need a full rack yes. I was more wondering if I could buy a given size of cam that is commonly used, so I can train with it on a maximum of routes.


(This post was edited by deBrice on Apr 10, 2012, 8:50 PM)


climbingaggie03


Apr 10, 2012, 10:18 PM
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Re: [deBrice] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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it's hard to say what is the most used cam, but maybe a mid range? Like BD #1 or #2? Maybe you can get a .75, 2, and 3 that will give you a good range and you can fill in later.


bearbreeder


Apr 10, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Re: [deBrice] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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deBrice wrote:

I'm not climbing always the same rock (sandstone and granit) and with different feature. I'm convinced at some point I will need a full rack yes. I was more wondering if I could buy a given size of cam that is commonly used, so I can train with it on a maximum of routes.

only a local who has done the routes can tell you that ... certainly no one here unless they are the above ...


guangzhou


Apr 11, 2012, 1:25 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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Where are you climbing?

Depending on where you climb, you'll get abetter from this place.

Does the area have a guidebook?
The guide may already have the answers.


deBrice


Apr 11, 2012, 6:20 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Starting a trad rack [In reply to]
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I climb in a lot of different place in California, like Santa Monica's mountains, San Diego(rencently), new Jack City and definitely planning on Joshua Tree this weekend or the next one. All those offer quite a diversity. I guess I'll start with one or two of the common ones (BD #1 #2) and see from there. It will be top rope for the first climbs to stay safe (not yet sure how to manage the 2 ropes at the same time though). Thank you for your advices guys, I really appreciate all of them, and feel free to give me more even if it's on something I didn't think about asking :-)


(This post was edited by deBrice on Apr 12, 2012, 7:06 AM)


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