 |

bearbreeder
Apr 12, 2012, 12:38 PM
Post #26 of 95
(1778 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1867
|
not you didnt say that ... but several posters definately implied it ... im not arguing that an 8 can be a bit more difficult to untie ... what i AM saying is that plenty of people who fall more than anyone here ever will choose to use an 8 despite the "disadvantages" ... they climb more than anyone here ever will and i assume they know what they are doing ... heres a little girl on the hardest send by an american female ever and i bet falls more than anyone here using an 8 ... she likely has a whole bunch of male groupies waiting to help her untie the 8 though ... id be lining up what people choose to use is up to them ... i climbed with someone who uses a bowline yesterday, and i told him as long as he can check it i dont care ... except on RC where its everyones business
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Apr 12, 2012, 12:41 PM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

healyje
Apr 12, 2012, 1:04 PM
Post #27 of 95
(1756 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4186
|
csproul wrote: healyje wrote: What I do - have never used a figure 8 outside of visiting gyms that require them. To be blunt figure 8s are more a lowest common denominator deal and suck as an actual tie in knot. Is that the same knot that was posted up-thread by shockabuku? Not quite, it's a double bowline with a Czech finish.
|
|
|
 |
 |

jamesnater
Apr 12, 2012, 1:06 PM
Post #28 of 95
(1753 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2011
Posts: 123
|
csproul wrote: Knot (un)tying advice from the guy that brought you this: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...6;page=unread#unread You'll forgive me if I take the advice with a grain of salt? But just in case, please post your method for super-easy figure 8 untying, I'd love to learn something new. I knew someone was going to bring that up, lol. I forgive you, . I think it's pretty safe to say that you can take advice from me about untying a knot though. Tying a knot might be a different story, I wouldn't expect anyone on here to take advice from me about anything as important as tying in... haha! I wouldn't recommend learning that over the internet anyway. I'll tie a figure eight and try to tighten it as much as possible and take pictures of how I untie it when I get home from work. Unless someone posts how to do it before I get home.
|
|
|
 |
 |

shockabuku
Apr 12, 2012, 1:24 PM
Post #29 of 95
(1738 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4773
|
healyje wrote: csproul wrote: healyje wrote: [image]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/6299Figure_Eight_4.JPG[/image] What I do - have never used a figure 8 outside of visiting gyms that require them. To be blunt figure 8s are more a lowest common denominator deal and suck as an actual tie in knot. Is that the same knot that was posted up-thread by shockabuku? Not quite, it's a double bowline with a Czech finish. What is the Czech finish? From the level of detail I see here and here (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1344526#1344526) I can't distinguish it from a double overhand.
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
 |
 |

LostinMaine
Apr 12, 2012, 2:03 PM
Post #31 of 95
(1708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
|
jamesnater wrote: I've never NOT been able to untie a figure eight. I can't really describe it through text, but it's super easy, even after a huge whipper. I've even had to undo friend's knots for them, showing them how, now they too have no problem untying figure eights after big falls, and after being super pumped too. It takes like 4 steps that takes less than 5 seconds to loosen the knot, then it's just a matter of untying. To be clear, I've never not been able to untie a figure 8 either. But I have had to wrestle with them. Why is it worth wrestling or using a secret decoder ring to come up with an 18-step solution? Simply opt for a better solution. You can tell me Sharma uses a figure 8 all you want, but it doesn't change the physics of my puny grip strength trying to untie a heavily loaded figure 8. It's simply easier for me to use a rethreaded bowline. If an 8 floats your boat, sail happily, dear friend.
|
|
|
 |
 |

sherpa79
Apr 12, 2012, 3:12 PM
Post #32 of 95
(1682 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 108
|
I think, basically, there are two types of people who get all worked up in the bowline vs. 8 argument. People who are anal about checking other people's knots and people who aren't. I really don't think a bowline along with the various finishes that exist out there is difficult to check at all. And, if you can't distinquish between an 8 and a bowline in a couple seconds, you don't have any buisness "checking" other people's safety gear anyway. And, I always check my own knot so I'm probably in the second group. But I don't know that I'm ever going to get worked up about it. And I do use the 8 to tie in sometimes. Perhaps there's a third group of people out there. People who just don't care so long as the knot is suitable.
|
|
|
 |
 |

guangzhou
Apr 12, 2012, 6:27 PM
Post #33 of 95
(1646 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3388
|
sherpa79 wrote: I think, basically, there are two types of people who get all worked up in the bowline vs. 8 argument. People who are anal about checking other people's knots and people who aren't. I really don't think a bowline along with the various finishes that exist out there is difficult to check at all. And, if you can't distinquish between an 8 and a bowline in a couple seconds, you don't have any buisness "checking" other people's safety gear anyway. And, I always check my own knot so I'm probably in the second group. But I don't know that I'm ever going to get worked up about it. And I do use the 8 to tie in sometimes. Perhaps there's a third group of people out there. People who just don't care so long as the knot is suitable.  I am anal about double checking knots, partners and mine. I don't care if they climb on an 8 or a bowline. Personally, I prefer the retrace bowline, but both knots are safe. Tie the knot correctly,double check it correct, and "climb on."
|
|
|
 |
 |

healyje
Apr 12, 2012, 7:21 PM
Post #34 of 95
(1629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4186
|
I lead rope-solo for 60-70% of my climbing so the idea of having other people check my knot always catches me by surprise.
|
|
|
 |
 |

USnavy
Apr 12, 2012, 11:10 PM
Post #35 of 95
(1601 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2571
|
granite_grrl wrote: Do you mean a double bowline? That's the standard when it comes to using the bowline when tying in. The only variations I've seen in the knot is where people tie their backup knots. No, that was not what I meant, but that brings me to another question. What is the double bowline? My understanding is that the single bowline is on the left and on the right, the double bowline:
However, I have heard of people refer to both of those knots as a single double bowline. They went on to say that a double bowline is only achieved when the climber retraces the knot back through the harness as pictured earlier in this thread.
|
|
|
 |
 |

healyje
Apr 12, 2012, 11:40 PM
Post #36 of 95
(1590 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4186
|
That's a mis-tied single bowline on the left, a double-bowline on the right, and here is a double-bowline-on-a-bight:
|
|
|
 |
 |

jamesnater
Apr 13, 2012, 12:08 AM
Post #37 of 95
(1583 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2011
Posts: 123
|
csproul wrote: Knot (un)tying advice from the guy that brought you this: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...6;page=unread#unread You'll forgive me if I take the advice with a grain of salt? But just in case, please post your method for super-easy figure 8 untying, I'd love to learn something new. I didn't take a fall on it, obviously, but I can assure you I've untied an 8 after falling without much effort. Here's the knot tied w/o backup. (Yosemite finish would be untied the same way as well.)
Pull two ropes down like the picture, grab it with the other hand and squeeze.
Pull the top of the figure eight down over the two you pulled down earlier.
Do the same with the next one.
Then you take the end of the rope, twist, then push it through those top loops, and do the same with the other. Done.
I really don't know how else to word it, hopefully the pictures do it justice. I used to fight with my knots until some one showed me this.
(This post was edited by jamesnater on Apr 13, 2012, 12:12 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

healyje
Apr 13, 2012, 12:18 AM
Post #38 of 95
(1578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4186
|
How to untie a stuck f8 should be fairly obvious, but a well-dressed f8 on even a moderately used rope can be an absolute bitch after repeated falls regardless of how you attempt it.
|
|
|
 |
 |

guangzhou
Apr 13, 2012, 12:53 AM
Post #39 of 95
(1571 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3388
|
I have to agree, even after one big fall, the F8 can be a bitch to untie. Twist and untwist all you like.
|
|
|
 |
 |

shockabuku
Apr 13, 2012, 5:31 AM
Post #40 of 95
(1544 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4773
|
I see, thanks. Although you did state it, it's hard to see that it's not a rethreaded bowline (bowline on a bight configuration) vs. an actual double bowline with a rethreaded finish.
|
|
|
 |
 |

sp115
Apr 13, 2012, 6:00 AM
Post #41 of 95
(1537 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515
|
shockabuku wrote: I see, thanks. Although you did state it, it's hard to see that it's not a rethreaded bowline (bowline on a bight configuration) vs. an actual double bowline with a rethreaded finish. A bowline on a bight and a rethreaded bowline have the same form but are tied differently. There are quite a few variations of the bowline, (double, Eskimo, water, Dutch), and also a number of different finishes. With respect to climbing however, most discussions seem to center around the the rethreaded variation or a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish.
|
|
|
 |
 |

Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2012, 6:43 AM
Post #42 of 95
(1523 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 14534
|
sp115 wrote: shockabuku wrote: I see, thanks. Although you did state it, it's hard to see that it's not a rethreaded bowline (bowline on a bight configuration) vs. an actual double bowline with a rethreaded finish. A bowline on a bight and a rethreaded bowline have the same form but are tied differently. There are quite a few variations of the bowline, (double, Eskimo, water, Dutch), and also a number of different finishes. With respect to climbing however, most discussions seem to center around the the rethreaded variation or a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish. I used to use a bowline in Europe but switched to the F8 because it was more common here in the US. For me, keeping things simple and standard is better, but that's me. But the one thing that has kept me from going back to the bowline is the sheer number of variations of the knot and the finishes. Seriously, I think there are at least four variations mentioned in this thread alone, and that seems to be the case with nearly all threads on the bowline. For consistency's sake, how are people supposed to keep track of them all? I'm not advocating the F8 as the best knot; I know why the bowline is a good knot. I probably would use it if I had continued to practice it over the years and had partners who used it a lot in the US (the F8 is also the standard here in South America), but a F8 is really easy for the masses to learn, check, and it's safe (in fact, I've read somewhere (sorry, can't reference) that an eight not fully threaded could still hold when tightened). There is one eight and there are many bowlines. I think if the bowline could be somehow standardized it would have a much better reputation.
|
|
|
 |
 |

shockabuku
Apr 13, 2012, 6:48 AM
Post #43 of 95
(1520 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4773
|
sp115 wrote: shockabuku wrote: I see, thanks. Although you did state it, it's hard to see that it's not a rethreaded bowline (bowline on a bight configuration) vs. an actual double bowline with a rethreaded finish. A bowline on a bight and a rethreaded bowline have the same form but are tied differently. There are quite a few variations of the bowline, (double, Eskimo, water, Dutch), and also a number of different finishes. With respect to climbing however, most discussions seem to center around the the rethreaded variation or a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish. I understand, though I'm not necessarily familiar with all of the variations. The issue is with the pictures above. Healyje was discussing his use of a double bowline with a Czech finish. The Czech finish is a rethreaded finish which (to the degree you can see the knot in the pictures) gives it the appearance of a rethreaded bowline. The rethreaded bowline being the same knot as the bowline-on-a-bight (BOB) but which allows you to use it as a tie in knot much more easily than the BOB.
|
|
|
 |
 |

surfstar
Apr 13, 2012, 7:51 AM
Post #44 of 95
(1489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2011
Posts: 206
|
Just don't fall and its knott a problem.
|
|
|
 |
 |

bearbreeder
Apr 13, 2012, 8:27 AM
Post #45 of 95
(1470 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1867
|
never understood that ... i take a few whippers at the top of climbs when pulling plastic to get the falling out of the system .. never had major problems untying ... granted im not hardcore enough to take factor 1-2 falls like some people here nor have i had issues untying even with my older ropes ... but who knows ... im not an RC expert as mentioned above, the sheer variations of bowlines in this thread alone, basically means youll likely need to self check ... i tell partners who use the bowline that ... check it yrself because theres no way im going to memorize everyones favorite personal variation ... its most interesting that every time (and there are quite a few times) where there is an accident with a bowline, people just brush it away ...
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Apr 13, 2012, 8:32 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

jt512
Apr 13, 2012, 9:17 AM
Post #46 of 95
(1445 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21812
|
Gmburns2000 wrote: sp115 wrote: shockabuku wrote: I see, thanks. Although you did state it, it's hard to see that it's not a rethreaded bowline (bowline on a bight configuration) vs. an actual double bowline with a rethreaded finish. A bowline on a bight and a rethreaded bowline have the same form but are tied differently. There are quite a few variations of the bowline, (double, Eskimo, water, Dutch), and also a number of different finishes. With respect to climbing however, most discussions seem to center around the the rethreaded variation or a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish. I used to use a bowline in Europe but switched to the F8 because it was more common here in the US. For me, keeping things simple and standard is better, but that's me. But the one thing that has kept me from going back to the bowline is the sheer number of variations of the knot and the finishes. Seriously, I think there are at least four variations mentioned in this thread alone, and that seems to be the case with nearly all threads on the bowline. For consistency's sake, how are people supposed to keep track of them all? I'm not advocating the F8 as the best knot; I know why the bowline is a good knot. I probably would use it if I had continued to practice it over the years and had partners who used it a lot in the US (the F8 is also the standard here in South America), but a F8 is really easy for the masses to learn, check, and it's safe (in fact, I've read somewhere (sorry, can't reference) that an eight not fully threaded could still hold when tightened). Your rationale for going to back to the figure-8 don't make sense. You went back to the figure-8 because it is more common? So what? Simplicity? A bowline and a fig-8 are equally simple? Standardization? Why would standardization, in the sense of everybody including you tying in with the same knot, matter? Furthermore, you don't go back to the figure-8 because it has too many variations? So what, you only need to know one of them. For consistency's sake, how are people supposed to keep track of them all? First of all, people keeping track of variations has nothing to do with consistency. Secondly, there is no reason to "keep track" of them all. I don't know how to tie most of the variations mentioned here. The figure-8 is easier for the masses? I agree, but so what? Let the masses do what's best for them. Our decisions should be based on rational criteria. There doesn't appear to be much rationality in yours. Jay
|
|
|
 |
 |

sp115
Apr 13, 2012, 9:22 AM
Post #47 of 95
(1439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515
|
bearbreeder wrote: never understood that ... i take a few whippers at the top of climbs when pulling plastic to get the falling out of the system .. never had major problems untying ... granted im not hardcore enough to take factor 1-2 falls like some people here nor have i had issues untying even with my older ropes ... but who knows ... im not an RC expert as mentioned above, the sheer variations of bowlines in this thread alone, basically means youll likely need to self check ... i tell partners who use the bowline that ... check it yrself because theres no way im going to memorize everyones favorite personal variation ... its most interesting that every time (and there are quite a few times) where there is an accident with a bowline, people just brush it away ... I don't take factor-anything falls, I'm just fat. And as far as bowlines and accidents, I would be very surprised if you could find a single accident that involved a re-threaded version.* I prefer the rethreaded version for objective reasons that make sense to me, but I'm also willing to conceded that if you have a preference it's not worth arguing about. * racing off to search the Interweb...
(This post was edited by sp115 on Apr 13, 2012, 9:26 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

jt512
Apr 13, 2012, 9:43 AM
Post #48 of 95
(1422 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21812
|
sp115 wrote: bearbreeder wrote: never understood that ... i take a few whippers at the top of climbs when pulling plastic to get the falling out of the system .. never had major problems untying ... granted im not hardcore enough to take factor 1-2 falls like some people here nor have i had issues untying even with my older ropes ... but who knows ... im not an RC expert as mentioned above, the sheer variations of bowlines in this thread alone, basically means youll likely need to self check ... i tell partners who use the bowline that ... check it yrself because theres no way im going to memorize everyones favorite personal variation ... its most interesting that every time (and there are quite a few times) where there is an accident with a bowline, people just brush it away ... I don't take factor-anything falls, I'm just fat. And as far as bowlines and accidents, I would be very surprised if you could find a single accident that involved a re-threaded version. I doubt that you can find an accident in which a properly tied re-threaded or backed-up bowline failed. In fact, I doubt that you can find an accident in which a properly tied unthreaded, unbacked-up bowline failed, but I'll admit that the latter is possible. @bearbreeder: There are not "quite a few" times when there has been "an accident with a bowline"; and no one is "brushing away" the few that have been reported. The fact is that there never has been any credible evidence that a properly tied (and backed up or rethreaded) bowline tie-in has ever failed, while there is overwhelming evidence that properly tied (and backed up or rethreaded) bowlines are completely safe. Jay
|
|
|
 |
 |

Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2012, 9:48 AM
Post #49 of 95
(1420 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 14534
|
jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sp115 wrote: shockabuku wrote: I see, thanks. Although you did state it, it's hard to see that it's not a rethreaded bowline (bowline on a bight configuration) vs. an actual double bowline with a rethreaded finish. A bowline on a bight and a rethreaded bowline have the same form but are tied differently. There are quite a few variations of the bowline, (double, Eskimo, water, Dutch), and also a number of different finishes. With respect to climbing however, most discussions seem to center around the the rethreaded variation or a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish. I used to use a bowline in Europe but switched to the F8 because it was more common here in the US. For me, keeping things simple and standard is better, but that's me. But the one thing that has kept me from going back to the bowline is the sheer number of variations of the knot and the finishes. Seriously, I think there are at least four variations mentioned in this thread alone, and that seems to be the case with nearly all threads on the bowline. For consistency's sake, how are people supposed to keep track of them all? I'm not advocating the F8 as the best knot; I know why the bowline is a good knot. I probably would use it if I had continued to practice it over the years and had partners who used it a lot in the US (the F8 is also the standard here in South America), but a F8 is really easy for the masses to learn, check, and it's safe (in fact, I've read somewhere (sorry, can't reference) that an eight not fully threaded could still hold when tightened). Your rationale for going to back to the figure-8 don't make sense. You went back to the figure-8 because it is more common? So what? Simplicity? A bowline and a fig-8 are equally simple? Standardization? Why would standardization, in the sense of everybody including you tying in with the same knot, matter? I, and all of my partners, do checks before leaving the ground (actually, we tend to do checks of some sort throughout the climb, but I digress). Since all of my partners use the F8 then that makes it easier for them to check my knot and vice-versa. A F8 looks the same depending one slightly different finish (if one tucks the strand back in or not), whereas a bowline can look quite different depending on the variation. If a partner doesn't recognize the difference between the variations then the partner may have a difficult time verifying that the knot was tied properly. Whether you agree with checks or not is irrelevant, I think they're good and I think it's easier to check a knot that is more common than a knot that is less common with many variations. For example, when I climb with someone who ties in with a bowline, I tell them that I can't check it (because I have neither seen or tied one in a long time). If they're fine, great, but I prefer to be able to check the knot. If more people could verify the bowline then I'd probably go back to using it.
In reply to: Furthermore, you don't go back to the figure-8 bowline because it has too many variations? So what, you only need to know one of them. For consistency's sake, how are people supposed to keep track of them all? First of all, people keeping track of variations has nothing to do with consistency. Secondly, there is no reason to "keep track" of them all. I don't know how to tie most of the variations mentioned here. The figure-8 is easier for the masses? I agree, but so what? Let the masses do what's best for them. Our decisions should be based on rational criteria. There doesn't appear to be much rationality in yours. Jay fixed
|
|
|
 |
 |

granite_grrl
Apr 13, 2012, 10:10 AM
Post #50 of 95
(1404 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14107
|
Both me and my main climbing partner always tie in with a bowline. We also always double check each other. It goes like this: - "do you have a good knot?" - partner looks down at his knot...."yup" I don't need to inspect my partner's knot, I trust that my climbing partners know what their knot is supossed to look like.
|
|
|
 |
|
|