|
JaysonRohr
Mar 19, 2012, 12:14 PM
Post #1 of 27
(8703 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 4
|
I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain.
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
Mar 19, 2012, 12:18 PM
Post #2 of 27
(8692 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
Possible answers:
-the route wanders and the rappel is straight down
-rope stretch
-the place that you come down from the rappel is higher ground than where the climb starts
-125 ft is a lie
-you don't
|
|
|
|
|
JaysonRohr
Mar 19, 2012, 12:26 PM
Post #4 of 27
(8672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 4
|
njrox wrote: JaysonRohr wrote: I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain. Repel? Oh, you mean "Rappel".  Sorry, I couldn't help myself. 1 60m rope ain't gonna do it. Not unless you use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur". So they must mean that it's a two-rope rappel (with a EuroDeathKnot).
they said It could be done single rope but how do you retrieve the rope from a station like that without tying the rope to make it fixed rappel***** lol
|
|
|
|
|
njrox
Mar 19, 2012, 12:33 PM
Post #5 of 27
(8664 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
|
use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur"
Basically, it's a pull-cord about as long as the length of your rappel.
To be honest, the Reepschnur is kinda extreme. That's a lot of cord to buy and to carry. Might as well bring a 2nd rope (unless it's a necessity to be carrying the cord because you're on a light-weight expedition or something). Just EDK two ropes and be on your way.
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Mar 19, 2012, 12:45 PM
Post #6 of 27
(8642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
Rudmin wrote: Possible answers: -the route wanders and the rappel is straight down -rope stretch -the place that you come down from the rappel is higher ground than where the climb starts -125 ft is a lie -you don't
This.^^^
Or you could have the belayer lower the climber (like a normal person).
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Mar 19, 2012, 12:58 PM
Post #8 of 27
(8625 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9091
|
shimanilami wrote: Rudmin wrote: Possible answers: -the route wanders and the rappel is straight down -rope stretch -the place that you come down from the rappel is higher ground than where the climb starts -125 ft is a lie -you don't This.^^^ Or you could have the belayer lower the climber (like a normal person).
I also agree with Rudmin's post. Good answer.
Not saying it is the case here, but it would be possible if the route did wander or was severely overhung that the one rope descent would only work if the rope was pulled through the protection to allow a straight shot to the bottom without one side weaving through all the gear.
|
|
|
|
|
Kyleanderson415
Mar 19, 2012, 1:33 PM
Post #9 of 27
(8584 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2010
Posts: 4
|
It is possible that there is an intermediate anchor. This would require only one 60m, with two rappels. That would be the only scenario that would make sense to me (unless the route wanders a lot like others mentioned).
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Mar 19, 2012, 2:16 PM
Post #10 of 27
(8550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20704
|
It's most likely an issue of the guidebook misstating the actual height of the climb. Anyone who has looked into the Indian Creek guidebook knows that there are numerous "120-140 foot routes" that are quite possible to lower off of with a single 70m.
|
|
|
|
|
jae8908
Mar 19, 2012, 2:21 PM
Post #11 of 27
(8546 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 270
|
camhead wrote: It's most likely an issue of the guidebook misstating the actual height of the climb. Anyone who has looked into the Indian Creek guidebook knows that there are numerous "120-140 foot routes" that are quite possible to lower off of with a single 70m.
|
|
|
|
|
JaysonRohr
Mar 19, 2012, 3:24 PM
Post #12 of 27
(8489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 4
|
I really appreciate you guys sorting this out I think the answer was it isn't accually 125 ft I was talking about the red rock canyon route guide for colorado. Cheap route guide lol
Thanks everyone
|
|
|
|
|
vinnie83
Mar 19, 2012, 4:37 PM
Post #13 of 27
(8449 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2004
Posts: 110
|
Which route?
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Mar 25, 2012, 4:48 PM
Post #14 of 27
(8041 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
JaysonRohr wrote: I was wondering on a 125ft sport pitch at the top are reppeling chains, in the climbing guide for the area it states you can use a 60m rope for decent. I am viewing this as you dont have enough rope. Can someone please explain.
And my 2 cents, after the wonderful awnsers above that all have a good opitions provided. Is find some one that has climb your route in question and get a bit of info on what the descent is like.
and also what rout is it? I am wondering myself.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Mar 25, 2012, 10:17 PM
Post #15 of 27
(7948 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8344
|
use midjet SOL rap kit and you could rap 300 feet + on 60 meter rope
|
|
|
|
|
YouWill787
Apr 13, 2012, 8:32 AM
Post #16 of 27
(7591 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 13
|
I wondered about the same thing in RRCOS. I was seeing some of the routes, especially on Coyote Wall were showing as being over 100 feet. One day I just tried one. From my experience now, (most of the time) the route won't be impossible. You might have to really stretch to get your foot on the ground, or you might be able to get down to a ledge within 5 feet of the ground. Once you are within a few feet of the ground on a single pitch climb, I consider that safe (especially on slab, just slide down on your butt the rest of the way). Since then I have encountered this on a few climbs outside of the Springs, like Clear Creek canyon.
|
|
|
|
|
herites
Apr 13, 2012, 9:01 AM
Post #17 of 27
(7566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210
|
I grab the rope, swing it around and try to shoo that 125 feet away.
125 feet = /sixty/two and a half man
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
Apr 13, 2012, 2:30 PM
Post #18 of 27
(7487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
YouWill787 wrote: I wondered about the same thing in RRCOS. I was seeing some of the routes, especially on Coyote Wall were showing as being over 100 feet. One day I just tried one. From my experience now, (most of the time) the route won't be impossible. You might have to really stretch to get your foot on the ground, or you might be able to get down to a ledge within 5 feet of the ground. Once you are within a few feet of the ground on a single pitch climb, I consider that safe (especially on slab, just slide down on your butt the rest of the way). Since then I have encountered this on a few climbs outside of the Springs, like Clear Creek canyon.
One trick you can do to drop those last few feet is spin around a few times while on rappel and then slip one strand through the rappel device. The friction of the rope wrapping around itself slows you down, but it may be more likely to tangle when you pull the rope. Obviously don't try this from seriously dangerous heights.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Apr 14, 2012, 1:06 PM
Post #19 of 27
(7415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687
|
Rudmin wrote: YouWill787 wrote: I wondered about the same thing in RRCOS. I was seeing some of the routes, especially on Coyote Wall were showing as being over 100 feet. One day I just tried one. From my experience now, (most of the time) the route won't be impossible. You might have to really stretch to get your foot on the ground, or you might be able to get down to a ledge within 5 feet of the ground. Once you are within a few feet of the ground on a single pitch climb, I consider that safe (especially on slab, just slide down on your butt the rest of the way). Since then I have encountered this on a few climbs outside of the Springs, like Clear Creek canyon. One trick you can do to drop those last few feet is spin around a few times while on rappel and then slip one strand through the rappel device. The friction of the rope wrapping around itself slows you down, but it may be more likely to tangle when you pull the rope. Obviously don't try this from seriously dangerous heights.
I understand the theory here, but yikes. No thank you. I'd rather leave gear at an anchor midway or even down climb the last bits unroped.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Apr 14, 2012, 1:08 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
stagg54
Apr 14, 2012, 3:59 PM
Post #20 of 27
(7374 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 187
|
njrox wrote: use single-rope rappel with a pull-cord or "Reepschnur" Basically, it's a pull-cord about as long as the length of your rappel. To be honest, the Reepschnur is kinda extreme. That's a lot of cord to buy and to carry. Might as well bring a 2nd rope (unless it's a necessity to be carrying the cord because you're on a light-weight expedition or something). Just EDK two ropes and be on your way.
forget the Reepschnur, get a fifi and some p-cord.
|
|
|
|
|
wmgr1950
Apr 26, 2012, 12:15 AM
Post #21 of 27
(6978 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2012
Posts: 2
|
Just curious. Never saw a response to why you would want to rap off a route you were just belayed on. It's the most dangerous part of climbing and, no matter how incredibly cool it is to do, it should be avoided in most cases where there is an obvious alternative.
Also, it should be noted that if you are unsure of the distance to the deck, or if you can't see the ends of thee rope, tie a safety figure eight in the end.
Wes
|
|
|
|
|
JAB
Apr 26, 2012, 4:11 AM
Post #22 of 27
(6952 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 373
|
wmgr1950 wrote: Just curious. Never saw a response to why you would want to rap off a route you were just belayed on. It's the most dangerous part of climbing and, no matter how incredibly cool it is to do, it should be avoided in most cases where there is an obvious alternative. Also, it should be noted that if you are unsure of the distance to the deck, or if you can't see the ends of thee rope, tie a safety figure eight in the end. Wes
Because that was not the question. Even though the OP used the word "Repel" [sic], everybody assumed he simply meant "how do you get down". without particularly meaning lower or rappell. So (thank god) this didn't end up into another lower or rappell discussion.
|
|
|
|
|
jgardner7
Nov 30, 2012, 10:16 AM
Post #23 of 27
(5636 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2012
Posts: 1
|
You could lower one end of the rope until it hits the ground and on the side that is short tie an alpine butterfly and use a carabiner to attach it to the long end. This will give you a way to get down on one end of the rope. Once you get to the bottom of the short end begin tying slings or a cordelette to the end of the line until you reach the ground. Now you should be able to pull the rope through. This method is featured in climbing magazine november 2012 edition.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Nov 30, 2012, 4:46 PM
Post #24 of 27
(5515 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2263
|
jgardner7 wrote: You could lower one end of the rope until it hits the ground and on the side that is short tie an alpine butterfly and use a carabiner to attach it to the long end. This will give you a way to get down on one end of the rope. Once you get to the bottom of the short end begin tying slings or a cordelette to the end of the line until you reach the ground. Now you should be able to pull the rope through. This method is featured in climbing magazine november 2012 edition.
Yea, right. Like a sport climber's going to have 50 feet of slings with them.
Just bring a second rope to the crag.
Oh, and Rudmin - do you realize that you just suggested IN THE BEGINNERS FORUM that the climber intentionally rap off the end of his/her rope.
(This post was edited by gunkiemike on Nov 30, 2012, 4:56 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
dan2see
Dec 1, 2012, 10:40 AM
Post #25 of 27
(5385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2006
Posts: 1497
|
gunkiemike wrote: ... Just bring a second rope to the crag. Oh, and Rudmin - do you realize that you just suggested IN THE BEGINNERS FORUM that the climber intentionally rap off the end of his/her rope.
Absolutely right! It's easy to do this with two ropes, but it's slightly technical, and it's not for beginners.
So my advice to the OP is: Find another route that you can set-up easily and do safely, with your regular rope.
Then come back next year, and re-evaluate the situation.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
