Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Semi aggressive shoes?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


Rock-Monkey


Apr 15, 2012, 1:29 PM
Post #1 of 19 (3489 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Semi aggressive shoes?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello all,

So the low down is that I have been climbing for a few months now; getting into the V3 range in my gym and 5.9 top rope. I am noticing with my shoes right now (evolve defy) I am having a harder time getting proper foot placement, and I dont think that its completely a noob foot placement problem. The gym i climb in has a lot of over hangs and decline climbing.

I have pretty sweaty feet as is and I also notice that these things feel like a marsh within 30 mins. They smell horrible even when I wash them, even when I use powder in them.

I have been pondering if a more aggressive shoe would help (la sportivia katana in particular, but up to any suggestions) with my point precision and over all performance. What do you guys think?


shockabuku


Apr 15, 2012, 3:46 PM
Post #2 of 19 (3455 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4856

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Rock-Monkey wrote:
Hello all,

So the low down is that I have been climbing for a few months now; getting into the V3 range in my gym and 5.9 top rope. I am noticing with my shoes right now (evolve defy) I am having a harder time getting proper foot placement, and I dont think that its completely a noob foot placement problem. The gym i climb in has a lot of over hangs and decline climbing.

I have pretty sweaty feet as is and I also notice that these things feel like a marsh within 30 mins. They smell horrible even when I wash them, even when I use powder in them.

I have been pondering if a more aggressive shoe would help (la sportivia katana in particular, but up to any suggestions) with my point precision and over all performance. What do you guys think?

Sounds like you probably need a shoe that fits better more than you need a more aggressive shoe.

The (velcro) Katana probably isn't much more aggressive than the Defy.

Take them off periodically so they don't get so sweaty and when you're done for the day spray them with the shit the gym keeps at the desk. Also make sure to store them in an open area so they can dry out.


Rock-Monkey


Apr 15, 2012, 3:51 PM
Post #3 of 19 (3450 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [shockabuku] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think your right, in a fit I decided to go try on the katana's and they where not THAT much more aggressive but one thing i did notice is that they fit my slim profile foot much better than the defy's did.

Only issue I had was the size i tried on i think was a half size to much, hopefully i can find one in a half size in the area to give it a shot.

I will def give all those things a shot, thanks for the tips.


canadianruby


Apr 15, 2012, 4:01 PM
Post #4 of 19 (3446 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 5, 2012
Posts: 3

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Did you take a look at the Mythos? I've never tried them on but I've heard amazing things about them from almost anyone that's ever talked about them.


shockabuku


Apr 15, 2012, 4:02 PM
Post #5 of 19 (3446 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4856

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you have a narrow foot you might look for some other options as well. I have a rather wide foot and the Katana's fit me pretty well other than in the heel. Maybe the woman's version of the Katana. Women's shoes are supposed to be more narrow than men's.


Rock-Monkey


Apr 15, 2012, 4:46 PM
Post #6 of 19 (3434 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [shockabuku] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I also thought about doing that, they did not have the right size for me in women's. I will take my time, I do think that style of shoe works for me as i feel more arch support and the tendency to put my big toe first with those shoes on. gotta find a size 39 around here somewhere!


lofstromc


Apr 15, 2012, 5:34 PM
Post #7 of 19 (3420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 528

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think all Evolv shoes are made from synthetic leather which can be very stinky. Real leather shoes tend to stink less, but they also stretch, so keep that in mind when picking the size of your shoe.
To get rid of the funk....Once they are dried out from your last sweaty-footed climbing session, put them in a ziplock freezer bag and stick them in the freezer for the night. The bacteria will die.
As for your footwork...You can get a different shoe, but I doubt that will they make your footwork better, its only V3/5.9 in a gym...


Rock-Monkey


Apr 15, 2012, 6:14 PM
Post #8 of 19 (3406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [lofstromc] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yea your prob right... I just feel that within 30-45 mins of a climbing session my feet are so sweaty that i am not getting the most out of my feet placement. I also noticed that I am not really getting any arch support from the defy's, it might help...

I will try the freezer thing, thanks!


lofstromc


Apr 15, 2012, 6:20 PM
Post #9 of 19 (3402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 528

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Climbing in sweaty shoes sucks! Maybe you should try something that has more vents/allows more air in, or at least absorbs sweat. I'm thinking synthetic materials may absorb very little. Some people climb with socks.


acorneau


Apr 15, 2012, 6:22 PM
Post #10 of 19 (3402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Another thought:

Lace-up shoes allow for much more tightening down when they warm up, get sweaty, and stretch out.


Rock-Monkey


Apr 15, 2012, 6:55 PM
Post #11 of 19 (3389 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [acorneau] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I might have to go to socks to be honest... My feet really sweat bad. I am trying to avoid it though as I do like the feel of just the shoes on.

I have thought about doing laces, and they are always a possibility, but i normally take my shoes off after a pitch or two when i am belaying someone else. We will have to see whats out there.


Colinhoglund


Apr 16, 2012, 2:18 PM
Post #12 of 19 (3323 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 338

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Don't blame the shoes aggressiveness. Myself and others I know love the Defy for higher grades because they are sensitive, but can still edge. And also because they don't cost a fortune, which is important if you climb a lot.
Find a moderately priced shoe that fits really well (laces recommended like Acorneau) and concentrate on your foot work. Also think about using flipflops between climbs instead of wearing your shoes to belay.


Rock-Monkey


Apr 17, 2012, 3:28 AM
Post #13 of 19 (3271 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [Colinhoglund] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh I am not blaming my shoes for bad foot work... I really do like my defy's and will use them for crack climbing for sure. They just get extremely sweaty. I take them off after almost every single climb and even when I do this they are still soaking wet within 30-45 mins (even after putting powder in my shoes). They also dont have much of an arch support, which I am starting to think that I need.

I am always open to suggestions, I will try the acorneau's when i get a chance.


zealotnoob


Apr 17, 2012, 8:53 AM
Post #14 of 19 (3243 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Evolves, and some other synth leather shoes stink. It's what they do.

Defy's are plenty aggressive. It sounds like they don't fit you well, however. Find a pair that does.

Check out the La Sportive Miura VS's (medium aggressive) and the Solutions (more aggressive, but comfy enough where I still use them for trad). They honor the animals that were killed to make them by not stinking, and fitting like a second skin, which they are.


(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Apr 17, 2012, 9:12 AM)


theextremist04


Apr 18, 2012, 6:44 AM
Post #15 of 19 (3180 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 23, 2010
Posts: 189

Re: [zealotnoob] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

zealotnoob wrote:
Evolves, and some other synth leather shoes stink. It's what they do.

Defy's are plenty aggressive. It sounds like they don't fit you well, however. Find a pair that does.

Check out the La Sportive Miura VS's (medium aggressive) and the Solutions (more aggressive, but comfy enough where I still use them for trad). They honor the animals that were killed to make them by not stinking, and fitting like a second skin, which they are.
If your Solutions are comfortable, you probably sized them incorrectly. They're definitely an aggressive shoe.


zealotnoob


Apr 18, 2012, 8:56 AM
Post #16 of 19 (3162 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [theextremist04] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

That the shoes climb well and are comfortable means I sized them perfectly.


Rock-Monkey


Apr 24, 2012, 1:14 PM
Post #17 of 19 (2938 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [zealotnoob] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I have been testing for the past two weeks on different shoes, men and woman's and I have found out that... I fit a woman's katana perfectly! My low profile foot was causing some issues in the shoes, also the heal finally fits comfortably. Fit like a glove... for your feet.

Just goes to show that there is a show for everyone, even if the call it the other sex's.


jamesnater


Apr 24, 2012, 2:40 PM
Post #18 of 19 (2919 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2011
Posts: 130

Re: [Rock-Monkey] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A tip for stinky shoes: Put a drier sheet from your laundry inside your shoes after you're done using them. I typically blow into my shoes after I'm done to cool them down and dry them a little first, because my feet sweat a lot too.

It doesn't completely get rid of the smell, but it helps.


Rock-Monkey


Apr 24, 2012, 3:24 PM
Post #19 of 19 (2909 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2011
Posts: 43

Re: [jamesnater] Semi aggressive shoes? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I will give that one a shot.

Now i just need to decide wether i really want a more aggressive shoe like the katana's or go for the mythos.

Choices!


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook