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matasw
Apr 17, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Any opinions on this? I've seen it mentioned quite a bit in SAR but not so much in Rock climbing. I was testing it around in the backyard a bit last night and I liked it. Yes, i'll use a few extra feet wrapping the tree but I like not having any tension on the knot.
Just wanted to see other peoples experiences or opinions on this.
http://www.animatedknots.com/tensionless/index.php
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wivanoff
Apr 17, 2012, 12:24 PM
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I've used it and the "wrap three/pull two" for setting up toprope anchors with webbing. Mostly just to use up extra webbing. Both are a bit more than what's needed for recreational climbing, IMO.
Typical scenario: Tie one end of webbing/cord to first tree, run webbing/cord to the edge. Tie 'bunny ears', clip carabiners and middle of climbing rope and drop rope over the edge. Run the other end of webbing/cord to second tree and use tensionless hitch to adjust/distribute load on your 'bunny ears' masterpoint. Easy.
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USnavy
Apr 17, 2012, 1:07 PM
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I have used it when rigging zip lines between trees, mainly because getting a knot out of a rope that has had 4+ kN on it is really hard. I dont see much of an application for it in normal rock climbing. The main advantage of it is that it does not reduce the strength of the rope. However the strength reduction of a figure eight in a piece of rope is negligible in most climbing applications.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 17, 2012, 1:08 PM)
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TarHeelEMT
Apr 17, 2012, 3:40 PM
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I use it all the time for water rescue applications, because it minimizes the amount of gear I might have to swim with. It's extremely reliable and easy to set up.
I've used it a few times to belay a second when climbing - usually after a top-out on a trad route where large boulders or trees present the best anchor options.
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jp_sucks
Apr 17, 2012, 4:19 PM
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It's quite simply the strongest "knot" possible if you have the extra rope available.
Plus, as mentioned above, makes it easy to untie afterwards.
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bill413
Apr 17, 2012, 4:25 PM
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I suspect that a reason we don't see it used more in climbing is the amount of rope it uses up in the anchor system.
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bearbreeder
Apr 17, 2012, 4:26 PM
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very common for use around boulders in alpine style climbing ... saves time as you just wrap it around 3-4 times and belay ... no need to mess around with cords or slings
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jp_sucks
Apr 17, 2012, 4:28 PM
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Good for a rappel anchor too if people are going to be rapping all day on the same line.
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JAB
Apr 17, 2012, 6:25 PM
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You have a point, it could be utilised more. Mostly I've seen it mentioned in tyrolean traverse (and slackline) applications, but the ease of untying can be useful in normal climbing situations as well.
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Marylandclimber
Apr 17, 2012, 8:07 PM
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Yea I use it just make sure there a 3-4 wraps on the tree or boulder. Except, I don't use the biner and instead loop the rope through the knot.
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wivanoff
Apr 18, 2012, 12:42 AM
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As mentioned above, I sometimes use this with webbing or cord. I prefer not to get tree sap on my rope. YMMV.
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cruxslayer
Apr 18, 2012, 3:52 AM
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for a putting a static line in place it's an awesome anchor. i work for the fire department and am on the technical rescue team, from the classes and training i have done with the tensionless anchor it's straight bomber. as far as climbing goes, i would feel good using it to secure a drop line to put a top rope anchor in a better position.
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majid_sabet
Apr 18, 2012, 6:25 AM
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matasw wrote: Any opinions on this? I've seen it mentioned quite a bit in SAR but not so much in Rock climbing. I was testing it around in the backyard a bit last night and I liked it. Yes, i'll use a few extra feet wrapping the tree but I like not having any tension on the knot. Just wanted to see other peoples experiences or opinions on this. http://www.animatedknots.com/tensionless/index.php
its commonly used in water rescue where speed of building an anchor is essential and also in highline /guideline or anywhere that you need to use maximum strength on the rope . it requires at least three wrap with fig 8 at the end attached to main rope as backup.
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healyje
Apr 18, 2012, 6:17 PM
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SAR has different priorities than rock climbing.
In rock climbing you don't see many connections done with a carabiner where a rope-to-rope knotted connection can be made because of a desire to avoid introducing complexity / devices that add points of potential failure for mere convenience.
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donwanadi
Apr 19, 2012, 1:19 PM
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healyje wrote: SAR has different priorities than rock climbing. In rock climbing you don't see many connections done with a carabiner where a rope-to-rope knotted connection can be made because of a desire to avoid introducing complexity / devices that add points of potential failure for mere convenience.
The tensionless hitch does not require a carabiner. You can tie the figure-eight-follow-through around the rope much the same way you tie into your harness.
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healyje
Apr 19, 2012, 6:02 PM
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True and what I use for first pitch roped-solo anchoring when a tree is close enough. But even in my use of a wrap I never do more than one full wrap and finish in a single bowline as I use it to keep the rope from sliding up the tree versus limiting the load on the knot. My post above was responding specifically to the animation the OP posted.
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devkrev
Apr 19, 2012, 6:17 PM
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healyje wrote: SAR has different priorities than rock climbing..... ....add points of potential failure for mere convenience.
What is your opinion on SAR?
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