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Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley
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rslifka


Apr 17, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park)
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Hey guys,

Heading out to Yosemite in a few weeks and I have a picky question - it's myself and 3 others, 2 of whom can sport lead, 2 others haven't climbed outside. Looking for something cruisey and fun, single pitch sport.

HUGE thanks in advance, will be of course digging on this myself and will post back anything I find to help the next person who comes across this picky as hell question :)

Rob


climbingaggie03


Apr 17, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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The only climb that comes to mind is Mockery, it's 5.8 super well protected, and not to bad of an approach. It's on the five and dime cliff.

the other climb that might work is just for starters at knob hill. I think that the first pitch is bolted, but I can't remember for sure. It's rated 10a, but it's just got one 10 move with a bolt at your face.

you can also set up a top rope at the swan slabs and do some top roping, most of the climbs there are easy enough to scramble around to the top.


caughtinside


Apr 17, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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http://www.supertopo.com/...limbs-top-ropes.html


marc801


Apr 17, 2012, 2:28 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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For the OP: there are very few sport routes in the Valley. Of the routes listed on the linked page, over 95% are trad.


vinnie83


Apr 17, 2012, 2:58 PM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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Are you set on only doing roped climbing? If gear protected routes are out you could probably get much more climbing in if you brought some crash pads.


caughtinside


Apr 17, 2012, 3:19 PM
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Re: [marc801] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
For the OP: there are very few sport routes in the Valley. Of the routes listed on the linked page, over 95% are trad.

Really? The Sport Climbing guide to the valley is really a bunch of trad climbs? News to me.


redlude97


Apr 17, 2012, 3:42 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
marc801 wrote:
For the OP: there are very few sport routes in the Valley. Of the routes listed on the linked page, over 95% are trad.

Really? The Sport Climbing guide to the valley is really a bunch of trad climbs? News to me.
A lot of the "sport climbs" on that list look like bolted trad climbs to me


rslifka


Apr 17, 2012, 3:53 PM
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Re: [redlude97] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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I'm a bit confused... what's the difference between a sport climb and a "bolted trad" route? Bolted trad sounds like an oxymoron :)

(googled for it, didn't find anything)


caughtinside


Apr 17, 2012, 3:58 PM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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LOL! I just clicked on the route list. I'm pretty sure that there is a hiccup on the website... that looks like the route list for Yosemite Free climbs.


redlude97


Apr 17, 2012, 4:19 PM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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rslifka wrote:
I'm a bit confused... what's the difference between a sport climb and a "bolted trad" route? Bolted trad sounds like an oxymoron :)

(googled for it, didn't find anything)
That will open a whole can of worms that isn't necessarily appropriate for this thread. Basically it comes down to the "safety" of the routes and/or if it was bolted ground up or rap bolted and preinspected.


olderic


Apr 17, 2012, 5:51 PM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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rslifka wrote:
I'm a bit confused... what's the difference between a sport climb and a "bolted trad" route? Bolted trad sounds like an oxymoron :)

(googled for it, didn't find anything)

Look again. billion and billions of bits have died trying to answer that question. No one has ever come close to succeeding...


rslifka


Apr 17, 2012, 5:59 PM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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Picked up the supertopo sport/top rope guides to the valley, tons of great info. Thanks for the links guys, much appreciated. I'll post back here if I find anything as well.


USnavy


Apr 18, 2012, 3:01 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
marc801 wrote:
For the OP: there are very few sport routes in the Valley. Of the routes listed on the linked page, over 95% are trad.

Really? The Sport Climbing guide to the valley is really a bunch of trad climbs? News to me.
Except that the Sport Climbing guide to the Valley isint actually about sport climbing. I own a copy of it and I have read through it, it's a gimmick. The vast majority of the routes in there are not sport routes, rather TR routes or bolt protected face climbs. Many of the routes in there have massive spacing between the bolts - not exactly sport climbing.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 18, 2012, 3:04 AM)


crackmeup


Apr 18, 2012, 6:38 AM
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Re: [vinnie83] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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vinnie83 wrote:
Are you set on only doing roped climbing? If gear protected routes are out you could probably get much more climbing in if you brought some crash pads.

I second this. Trying to "sport climb" in Yosemite will be very frustrating, especially with people who have never climbed outside.


marc801


Apr 18, 2012, 7:04 AM
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Re: [crackmeup] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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crackmeup wrote:
vinnie83 wrote:
Are you set on only doing roped climbing? If gear protected routes are out you could probably get much more climbing in if you brought some crash pads.

I second this. Trying to "sport climb" in Yosemite will be very frustrating, especially with people who have never climbed outside.
But there's that old quote they'll have to deal with:
"bouldering in Yosemite Valley is like masturbating in a whore house."


Partner cracklover


Apr 18, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Re: [rslifka] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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rslifka wrote:
Hey guys,

Heading out to Yosemite in a few weeks and I have a picky question - it's myself and 3 others, 2 of whom can sport lead, 2 others haven't climbed outside. Looking for something cruisey and fun, single pitch sport.

HUGE thanks in advance, will be of course digging on this myself and will post back anything I find to help the next person who comes across this picky as hell question :)

Rob

When you're done with that, go sport climbing in the Gunks. And then Indian Creek after that.

Sheesh.

GO


Partner cracklover


Apr 18, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Re: [marc801] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
crackmeup wrote:
vinnie83 wrote:
Are you set on only doing roped climbing? If gear protected routes are out you could probably get much more climbing in if you brought some crash pads.

I second this. Trying to "sport climb" in Yosemite will be very frustrating, especially with people who have never climbed outside.
But there's that old quote they'll have to deal with:
"bouldering in Yosemite Valley is like masturbating in a whore house."

At least there is, presumably, something to masturbate over in said whorehouse.

Sport climbing in the Valley would be like masturbating in a supermarket: You could probably find some obscure corner to try it, but in the end it would assuredly be a frustrating endeavor.

GO


surfstar


Apr 18, 2012, 4:47 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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Maybe the pass will be open by then and they can get on some of those bolted lines in the meadows.

I agree that supertopo book has a misleading title. "Run-out routes and TRs that can be set after a trad lead", would better fit.


marc801


Apr 18, 2012, 6:03 PM
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Re: [surfstar] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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surfstar wrote:
Maybe the pass will be open by then and they can get on some of those bolted lines in the meadows.

I agree that supertopo book has a misleading title. "Run-out routes and TRs that can be set after a trad lead", would better fit.
Most of those bolted lines in Tuolumne fall into that same category.


bergbryce


Apr 18, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Re: [marc801] Picky ask - single pitch sport climbs in the valley [In reply to]
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If you've got two beginners and must sport climb you should consider yourselves sight seers in Yosemite. There isn't much if any climbing that would be considered "modern" sport climbing in the park. There are some routes that are bolts only, but typically gear is usually part of the rack and if there are only bolts, they are well spaced apart. Look to set up some TRs and find the easiest grades you can. Yosemite is not a particularly kind place for beginners, imho.

If the pass is open (and it could be by early May) Cruise down to Bishop or Mammoth area, lots of the type of climbing you are looking for there.


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