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Possible A2, A1 or PA injury? Edit: turned out to be a Lumbrical tear
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Apr 17, 2012, 5:14 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2006
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Possible A2, A1 or PA injury? Edit: turned out to be a Lumbrical tear
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While doing my 2 finger (middle and ring finger) workout yesterday, I felt my middle finger lose strength all of a sudden. No pops or rips that I know of. When I press down on the tissue, I don't feel pain.

I only get pain when I do two finger pocket with my index finger pointed down. If the index finger is pointed up ( engaged or not engaged in the workout) I don't feel pain. I have tried open hand and crimping without too much weight and it feels relatively pain free.

I think the pain might be from flexing the index finger too much when not in the workout.

I can't really pinpoint the pain but it feels like its the A2, A1 or PA.

Any ideas?

Edit: I just found out from a redditor that it's lumbrical tear. I'm doing further research on this.

Prevention tip: Do not make a fist with the other digits that are not used when doing pockets.

From this site I got:
"On the assumption that the two origins of the fourth lumbrical hadbeen torn apart anddisrupted, the athletes were advised to avoid holding one-fingerpockets, but were allowedto train further as long as the middle and ring finger were loaded together and in similar joint angle positions. They were advised to apply a buddy taping enclosing the middle and ring finger. A moderate stretching programme was advocated in which the middle finger was forced into a flexed position and the ring finger into an extended position and vice versa. The pain disappeared after 6–10 weeks. Exercises on one-finger-pockets were startedafter 2–4 months. Two of the climbers did not reach the same maximum strength as before the injury andstill have a strange insecure feeling when pulling on a one-finger-pocket 4 and3 years after injury."

I'm going to be climbing without pockets for now and doing ice baths.
Ice therapy
"Increasing the blood flow to the area helps to speed healing greatly. Gentle climbing or exercise is an obvious way of achieving this. A little used, but massively effective method of increasing blood flow is ice therapy. If significant cold is applied to the skin, the blood vessels in the nearby area (in this case the hand) constrict to reduce blood flow and prevent cooling of the blood. However, when moderate cold is applied there is an initial reduction in blood flow followed by significant dilation of the blood vessels and subsequent increase in blood flow of up to 500%. This is called the ‘Lewis reaction’. The cycle of blood vessel constriction and dilation takes around 30 minutes and thus the cold application should last this long. Place your injured hand in a pot or small bucket of cold water with a few (roughly 5) ice cubes added. Leave your hand in the water for the length of the treatment. If your hand hasn’t gone pink and feels flushed with blood after ten minutes, the water is too icy. Try to use the ice at least once or twice a day. Don’t use this treatment on a freshly injured finger where there is significant inflammation!"

(This post was edited by geeyoupee on Apr 17, 2012, 7:33 PM)


Apr 17, 2012, 6:55 PM
Post #2 of 2 (1248 views)

Registered: Jun 15, 2009
Posts: 17

Re: [geeyoupee] Possible A2, A1 or PA injury? [In reply to]
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Let it heal now before it gets worse.

Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention


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