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amphotography89
Apr 19, 2012, 5:20 AM
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Hey there guys. I'm looking into my first pair of climbing shoes. I was at my gym and tried on the Five Ten Spire and Coyote. Although I was only able to climb with them on for one short route due to time constraints, the seemed to be pretty much the same shoe. The price difference between the shoe suggests otherwise though. the spire must be better right? why? if not then Ill go for the coyote. I will most likely be getting them on Sunday so HELP QUICK!!
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jt512
Apr 19, 2012, 5:35 AM
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amphotography89 wrote: Hey there guys. I'm looking into my first pair of climbing shoes. I was at my gym and tried on the Five Ten Spire and Coyote. Although I was only able to climb with them on for one short route due to time constraints, the seemed to be pretty much the same shoe. The price difference between the shoe suggests otherwise though. the spire must be better right? why? if not then Ill go for the coyote. I will most likely be getting them on Sunday so HELP QUICK!!
A Spires thread! Like the good old days of rc.com. These days all the n00bs post about are top-rope anchors.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 19, 2012, 5:38 AM)
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amphotography89
Apr 19, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Haha well I already know the best top rope anchor. I usually just tie some rope to my cat and leave him at the top. I have not tried it yet but it seems like a good idea. Haha. Any way. Any suggestion on the shoes?
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shotwell
Apr 19, 2012, 1:29 PM
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amphotography89 wrote: Haha well I already know the best top rope anchor. I usually just tie some rope to my cat and leave him at the top. I have not tried it yet but it seems like a good idea. Haha. Any way. Any suggestion on the shoes?
Get something that doesn't suck. You'll quickly outgrow either of those pairs.
Some people recommend a 'beginner's' pair of shoes to start with. The reality is that you're probably going to totally trash your first pair of shoes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't start wearing something that lets you get the most out of your feet. I recommend trying on as many different pairs of shoes as you can find and buying the best fit, regardless of price.
When you wear out your first pair (and before you punch a hole in the leather) send them to a resoler. Take what you've learned from the first pair (were they too lose? too tight? didn't fit you well in the heel?) and buy a pair that fits even better. Unless the best fit for you is the Spire or Coyote, they're a waste of time and money.
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amphotography89
Apr 19, 2012, 1:33 PM
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I heard pretty good things about. Five ten anasazi. Any comment?
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shotwell
Apr 19, 2012, 1:36 PM
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amphotography89 wrote: I heard pretty good things about. Five ten anasazi. Any comment?
Do they fit? Until you know what you prefer in a shoe (i.e. stiffness, asymmetry downturn, closure), very little else matters.
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granite_grrl
Apr 19, 2012, 1:51 PM
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shotwell wrote: amphotography89 wrote: Haha well I already know the best top rope anchor. I usually just tie some rope to my cat and leave him at the top. I have not tried it yet but it seems like a good idea. Haha. Any way. Any suggestion on the shoes? Get something that doesn't suck. You'll quickly outgrow either of those pairs. Some people recommend a 'beginner's' pair of shoes to start with. The reality is that you're probably going to totally trash your first pair of shoes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't start wearing something that lets you get the most out of your feet. I recommend trying on as many different pairs of shoes as you can find and buying the best fit, regardless of price. When you wear out your first pair (and before you punch a hole in the leather) send them to a resoler. Take what you've learned from the first pair (were they too lose? too tight? didn't fit you well in the heel?) and buy a pair that fits even better. Unless the best fit for you is the Spire or Coyote, they're a waste of time and money.
I don't know if a beginner could tell the difference in how any shoes fit. I think they have to go through a few pairs regardless until they figure this out for themselves. IMO why not start with a less expensive pair considering they'll probably not fit great anyway and they're also going to get trashed.
I think it would be a worth while trip to go to a gear store and try on a bunch of shoes regardless. If the OP can get a decent idea of fit then they should buy the ones that feel best for him. Otherwise just start with something inexpensive.
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amphotography89
Apr 19, 2012, 2:11 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: shotwell wrote: amphotography89 wrote: Haha well I already know the best top rope anchor. I usually just tie some rope to my cat and leave him at the top. I have not tried it yet but it seems like a good idea. Haha. Any way. Any suggestion on the shoes? Get something that doesn't suck. You'll quickly outgrow either of those pairs. Some people recommend a 'beginner's' pair of shoes to start with. The reality is that you're probably going to totally trash your first pair of shoes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't start wearing something that lets you get the most out of your feet. I recommend trying on as many different pairs of shoes as you can find and buying the best fit, regardless of price. When you wear out your first pair (and before you punch a hole in the leather) send them to a resoler. Take what you've learned from the first pair (were they too lose? too tight? didn't fit you well in the heel?) and buy a pair that fits even better. Unless the best fit for you is the Spire or Coyote, they're a waste of time and money. I don't know if a beginner could tell the difference in how any shoes fit. I think they have to go through a few pairs regardless until they figure this out for themselves. IMO why not start with a less expensive pair considering they'll probably not fit great anyway and they're also going to get trashed. I think it would be a worth while trip to go to a gear store and try on a bunch of shoes regardless. If the OP can get a decent idea of fit then they should buy the ones that feel best for him. Otherwise just start with something inexpensive.
Thanks That was pretty much what I was thinking. I was actually just at the gym the other day trying them on. I do like the coyote/Spire price point and the guy working at the gym let me climb around a bit on both and they seemed pretty nice. I was told to get a size to a half size smaller than what I would normally wear due to the stretch over time. honestly and I know as a noob (cant wait to stop calling my self that) it seems like Im pretty much choosing between red and blue at this point. I think I own more red t shirts plus my gf started to crotchet me a red and black chalk bag anyway.. Thanks guys
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granite_grrl
Apr 19, 2012, 3:00 PM
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amphotography89 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: shotwell wrote: amphotography89 wrote: Haha well I already know the best top rope anchor. I usually just tie some rope to my cat and leave him at the top. I have not tried it yet but it seems like a good idea. Haha. Any way. Any suggestion on the shoes? Get something that doesn't suck. You'll quickly outgrow either of those pairs. Some people recommend a 'beginner's' pair of shoes to start with. The reality is that you're probably going to totally trash your first pair of shoes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't start wearing something that lets you get the most out of your feet. I recommend trying on as many different pairs of shoes as you can find and buying the best fit, regardless of price. When you wear out your first pair (and before you punch a hole in the leather) send them to a resoler. Take what you've learned from the first pair (were they too lose? too tight? didn't fit you well in the heel?) and buy a pair that fits even better. Unless the best fit for you is the Spire or Coyote, they're a waste of time and money. I don't know if a beginner could tell the difference in how any shoes fit. I think they have to go through a few pairs regardless until they figure this out for themselves. IMO why not start with a less expensive pair considering they'll probably not fit great anyway and they're also going to get trashed. I think it would be a worth while trip to go to a gear store and try on a bunch of shoes regardless. If the OP can get a decent idea of fit then they should buy the ones that feel best for him. Otherwise just start with something inexpensive. Thanks That was pretty much what I was thinking. I was actually just at the gym the other day trying them on. I do like the coyote/Spire price point and the guy working at the gym let me climb around a bit on both and they seemed pretty nice. I was told to get a size to a half size smaller than what I would normally wear due to the stretch over time. honestly and I know as a noob (cant wait to stop calling my self that) it seems like Im pretty much choosing between red and blue at this point. I think I own more red t shirts plus my gf started to crotchet me a red and black chalk bag anyway.. Thanks guys
It wouldn't be a bad idea to get to a bigger store and try on other shoes as well.
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bearbreeder
Apr 19, 2012, 4:13 PM
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get what fits best ... in the gym the holds are big enough and yr a beginner, so you dont need the most aggressive shoes
for unlined leather shoes ... get 1/2-1 size smaller ... should be quite snug but not painful for those types of shoes to account for stretch
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amphotography89
Apr 19, 2012, 4:18 PM
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Thanks every one! Great help!! see you at the top of el cap! hahaha
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shoo
Apr 21, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Edit to add: Get the shoes that fit you best. Get help from the shop to figure out what a good fit is, and buy from that shop.
If they somehow fit exactly the same on you, and the price isn't that big of a deal, go with the spires for sure.
Durability-wise, they are WAY better than the coyotes. My first pair of shoes were the spires. Was still kicking and serviceable after 3 years of shit footwork, a few resoles, and general abuse, half of that time as my only pair of shoes. The last year or so they served as an all-day trad shoe. I've owned 8 or so pairs of shoes, and the spires have served me the longest of any of them by far, despite the odds.
I worked at a gym for a number of years, and found through customers that you get what you pay for with the coyotes: cheap price for cheap construction. That's fine and possibly even desirable if you want a pair of cheap throwaways to destroy before you get something nicer, but not the best option for everyone.
(This post was edited by shoo on Apr 21, 2012, 12:30 PM)
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sungam
Apr 21, 2012, 1:15 PM
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amphotography89 wrote: I heard pretty good things about. Five ten anasazi. Any comment?
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amphotography89
Apr 21, 2012, 3:20 PM
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Thanks everyone! I went back yesterday an went with the La Sportiva Mythos. I like em a lot. I can see relacing them being a bitch but I like how it will form to my foot for a nice fit
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potreroed
Apr 21, 2012, 3:30 PM
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amphotography89 wrote: Thanks everyone! I went back yesterday an went with the La Sportiva Mythos. I like em a lot. I can see relacing them being a bitch but I like how it will form to my foot for a nice fit
Excellent choice.
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