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First shoes.. how painful? (different shoe size)
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Metorn


Apr 25, 2012, 5:59 PM
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First shoes.. how painful? (different shoe size)
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First time climber, first shoes. The question was probably beaten many times already, but maybe I'll get more useful information here.
I'm 6'1", 175lb. My street shoe size is 42 right, 43 left, so I go for 43 (Ecco) most of the time, on a wide side and a bit flat footed. Climbing in gym only on simple vertical walls and getting ready to try bouldering.
So today I've decided to try something different from gym rentals and went to REI. After about 10 different models, I've fou.d that sportiva miura hugs my feet the best, but I'm totally confused about sizing.
If I get into 43 miuras, my right (42) is super tight and painful on the knuckles,which are fully squeezed , left (43) is impossibly painful to stand in and I get cramps in the arch, when I wiggle it around. Every review online suggest getting this shoes a size _smaller_.Crazy
Are my feet so diffrent or am I doing something wrong?


(This post was edited by Metorn on Apr 25, 2012, 6:00 PM)


acorneau


Apr 25, 2012, 8:13 PM
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Metorn wrote:
First time climber, first shoes. The question was probably beaten many times already, but maybe I'll get more useful information here.
I'm 6'1", 175lb. My street shoe size is 42 right, 43 left, so I go for 43 (Ecco) most of the time, on a wide side and a bit flat footed. Climbing in gym only on simple vertical walls and getting ready to try bouldering.
So today I've decided to try something different from gym rentals and went to REI. After about 10 different models, I've fou.d that sportiva miura hugs my feet the best, but I'm totally confused about sizing.
If I get into 43 miuras, my right (42) is super tight and painful on the knuckles,which are fully squeezed , left (43) is impossibly painful to stand in and I get cramps in the arch, when I wiggle it around. Every review online suggest getting this shoes a size _smaller_.Crazy
Are my feet so diffrent or am I doing something wrong?


No, you're just not ready for really tight shoes. Forget about what size you think you need or what you've heard someone else say, just get something that fits snuggly but doesn't hurt too much.

If they're a little uncomfortable that's ok. Your feet will get used to being cramped up in snug shoes and the shoes will stretch and conform to your foot. Between the two you'll find your shoes will "lock in" and fit very well (hopefully).

Good luck.


shotwell


Apr 26, 2012, 4:39 AM
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Metorn wrote:
First time climber, first shoes. The question was probably beaten many times already, but maybe I'll get more useful information here.
I'm 6'1", 175lb. My street shoe size is 42 right, 43 left, so I go for 43 (Ecco) most of the time, on a wide side and a bit flat footed. Climbing in gym only on simple vertical walls and getting ready to try bouldering.
So today I've decided to try something different from gym rentals and went to REI. After about 10 different models, I've fou.d that sportiva miura hugs my feet the best, but I'm totally confused about sizing.
If I get into 43 miuras, my right (42) is super tight and painful on the knuckles,which are fully squeezed , left (43) is impossibly painful to stand in and I get cramps in the arch, when I wiggle it around. Every review online suggest getting this shoes a size _smaller_.Crazy
Are my feet so diffrent or am I doing something wrong?

I don't wear them, but Evolv will do split sizing for your shoes. Just try them on then go to their website to order.


Metorn


Apr 26, 2012, 7:12 AM
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I have tried several Evolve models. With them I have to go 2 sizes up to be on the same level of (dis)comfort, which is kind of silly and none of them hug me well around heels.

shotwell wrote:
I don't wear them, but Evolv will do split sizing for your shoes. Just try them on then go to their website to order.


shotwell


Apr 26, 2012, 7:14 AM
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Metorn wrote:
I have tried several Evolve models. With them I have to go 2 sizes up to be on the same level of (dis)comfort, which is kind of silly and none of them hug me well around heels.

shotwell wrote:
I don't wear them, but Evolv will do split sizing for your shoes. Just try them on then go to their website to order.

Sizing is way different brand to brand (and even shoe to shoe) so the numbers wind up being practically meaningless for comparison purposes. The heel fit is the reason why I choose not to wear Evolv.

Good luck finding a good fit. Sounds pretty tough if you can't split sizes.


erclimb


Apr 26, 2012, 8:48 AM
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try on every style in the store and try different sizes to find the one that feels the best; when you find your shoe, go down 1/2 size (most shoes stretch, plus this will help with your smaller foot) and walk around the store for 20 minutes; if you can handle that, then the shoes should work fine for you on the rock


jae8908


Apr 26, 2012, 3:48 PM
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Best Advice...... Pay no attention to the size number. I wear about 1.5 sizes bigger in five ten than I do in sportiva. Each brand and even within brands each shoe fits different. Get what fits best for your feet. As you are new, don't get painful shoes, get them a little more comfortable but be sure not to get them too big.


bearbreeder


Apr 26, 2012, 6:52 PM
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snug ... not over tight .. not painful ... whatever fits yr foot


Metorn


May 2, 2012, 9:20 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
snug ... not over tight .. not painful ... whatever fits yr foot
Yep, that's what I've decided to stick with for now - 43 Mythos. Just snug in the unbroken state. Wouldn't want to run in them, but not painful to walk.
When my skills catch up with the shoes and I'll know better what I want, I might consider more technical and tighter stuff. Sly


Amorino


May 18, 2012, 5:23 AM
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Re: [Metorn] First shoes.. how painful? (different shoe size) [In reply to]
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when I first went to pick shoes i went with my friend they made us try on a size smaller than our feet.

He decided to go with it and is always in agony when he climbs. Convinced he has still made the right choice. he is constantly taking them off between climbs. it really annoys me.

I however went for a nice snug pair they are great and most of all comfy all the time. Ill never know if im a better climber having tighter shoes but i wouldn't change it i want to enjoy my climb.


(This post was edited by Amorino on May 18, 2012, 5:35 AM)


masjojon


May 19, 2012, 11:29 AM
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I agree with you



gypc


Jun 11, 2012, 4:46 PM
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Re: [Amorino] First shoes.. how painful? (different shoe size) [In reply to]
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Amorino wrote:
when I first went to pick shoes i went with my friend they made us try on a size smaller than our feet.

He decided to go with it and is always in agony when he climbs. Convinced he has still made the right choice. he is constantly taking them off between climbs. it really annoys me.

I however went for a nice snug pair they are great and most of all comfy all the time. Ill never know if im a better climber having tighter shoes but i wouldn't change it i want to enjoy my climb.


Climbing style also "justifies" the pain. I have a pair of evolv defys if im takin it easy, or the rare chance i go trad climbing with a buddy of mine, but my go to shoe is a pair of solutions that depending on the day can`t be worn for more than an attempt or two, and unfortunatly my big toe nail has seen better days, but it is what it is, my solutions heel hook like its their job...or is it...other than that i agree with everyone else, and your end decision, my defys were my first shoe, and great ones at that (aside from the evolv stench) until i started climbing harder to know what i wanted out of a shoe (my toe nail falling off wasn`t on that list but what do we really need them for anyway? haha)


shockabuku


Jun 11, 2012, 7:12 PM
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Re: [Amorino] First shoes.. how painful? (different shoe size) [In reply to]
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Amorino wrote:
when I first went to pick shoes i went with my friend they made us try on a size smaller than our feet.

He decided to go with it and is always in agony when he climbs. Convinced he has still made the right choice. he is constantly taking them off between climbs. it really annoys me.

I however went for a nice snug pair they are great and most of all comfy all the time. Ill never know if im a better climber having tighter shoes but i wouldn't change it i want to enjoy my climb.

About half the people I know take off their shoes between climbs.

But you should straighten that dude out. Clearly he isn't on your agenda.


boblee


Jun 13, 2012, 2:45 AM
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Re: [Metorn] First shoes.. how painful? (different shoe size) [In reply to]
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It's really painful,we know you.you can try to use a Band-Aid or wipe some alcohol.


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