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tanman01
Apr 28, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Hello there,
Is it me you're looking to help?
I kid, but for serious, I could use some advice on how to develop some more power/campusing ability. I've been a mostly static core-oriented climber, and I don't intend on changing styles but I think I need to develop some more dynamic power to progress. Problem is that I can't campus worth a lick. Details:
1. I'm heavy. 6'2" and 190 give or take a trip to the john.
2. Mostly boulder, climb about v5-v7 depending on the type of climb.
3. I'm mostly interested in climbing outdoors, but I train indoors quite a bit.
4. I can do like. 8 pullups.
Any good advice or training tips?
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bsyed
Apr 29, 2012, 11:26 AM
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Dynamic lifts such as olympic lifts or box squats or even pylometric training such as box jumps or kettlebell work will increase your power output.
usually a lack of power is due to a lack of base strength so squats, deadlifts and overhead press is usually a good idea at low reps with heavy for neural benefit
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sungam
Apr 29, 2012, 11:55 AM
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How long have you been climbing at that level for?
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tanman01
Apr 29, 2012, 8:38 PM
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@bsyed good stuff. I definitely hadn't thought about base strength so I will definitely start some of that. Thanks!
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tanman01
Apr 29, 2012, 8:45 PM
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@sungam I've been slowly progressing since I started bouldering. I've just started working on v7s with any success. V6 seems to be my limit most of the time.
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shockabuku
Apr 30, 2012, 4:34 AM
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bsyed wrote: Dynamic lifts such as olympic lifts or box squats or even pylometric training such as box jumps or kettlebell work will increase your power output. usually a lack of power is due to a lack of base strength so squats, deadlifts and overhead press is usually a good idea at low reps with heavy for neural benefit
Do you know what campusing is? How will this help someone do that?
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RCP
Apr 30, 2012, 8:09 AM
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By the sounds of it, you already have a strong base strength. You need to take into account the components at hand and take a progressive training schedule. Campusing can also be broken down into 2 types, (static and dynamic). From my understanding of this post, it seems to me your are looking to build both dynamic strength(power) and campusing strength. Increase in power first requires an increase in coordination between the upper and lower body so to function as a unit, which is mostly neural adaptation. And campusing, since you're a pretty big guy, you will need to increase the tensile capacity of your tendons, especially those in the hand. Start by finding your local friendly hangboard, and do dynamic, type-writer pull-ups starting on the jugs, and progressing to lesser quality holds.
Traditional gym exercises would include:
For Dynamic strength: Plyometric exercises for both the upper and lower body, separately at first, then progress to integrated full body exercises.
For Campus strength: All lat and trap exercises. Also need to increase finger strength.
www.rockclimbingperformance.com
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Rufsen
Apr 30, 2012, 12:07 PM
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I would suggest something radical and shocking. Climbing more boulders in a dynamic style.
Pick boulders between v3-v5 (nothing too hard) and force yourself to do them in a dynamic style. Don't use problems that require too much precision such as cracks. Spend the majority of your workout on those types of problems. After you finish 2-3 boulders in a dynamic style you can reward yourself with climbing one in a static style.
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bsyed
Apr 30, 2012, 12:25 PM
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i was addressing OPs concerns on power not campusing.
Power is exertion of force over a relatively short time frame. It's largely a neural adaptation therefore my suggestion was valid.
Theres no such thing as too strong or too powerful while maintaining the same bodyweight. it would increase your power to weight ratio to lift heavy and eat at maintenance.
If you want to get powerful for anything then work heavy and low volume or perform pylometrics with increasing difficulty as others have suggested also, increasing your base of strength will only raise the platform which you can output power from.
Compound exercises like barbell squats tend to involve whole body integration, while dynamic ability can be added via olympic lifts or high box jumps which tend to mimic movement patterns of dynos and the like.
grip strength can also be worked via deadlifts (another compound lift) and thick bar use for pulling and chinning.
and i agree with the bouldering suggestion by Rufsen
(This post was edited by bsyed on Apr 30, 2012, 12:26 PM)
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flesh
Apr 30, 2012, 7:25 PM
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check out my campusing video a few threads below this one.
If your around v6, try the method used that's in black and white towards the end of the video. Do it 2-3 sessions a month for a few months. With a week in between sessions.
Alternatively, campus boulder problems on the steepest wall at your gym or boulder in your gym with street shoes on, this builds alot of the pull muscles or core muscles needed for footless climbing. At your height, it shouldn't be often that you can't do a move due to reach.... generally the taller a climber is the less pull ups they can do to climb at a specific grade.
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sungam
Apr 30, 2012, 9:10 PM
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flesh wrote: check out my campusing video a few threads below this one.
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ceebo
May 2, 2012, 3:10 PM
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Single ladders then 1-3-5 and 1-5-9 are realy good in their own right. You need to find holds that your fingers can handle 1 arm lock offs on between rungs. On that you can then train slow pull through strength. You can use a more dynamic technique as in ''taps'' that will develop more dynamic and contact strength/technique. Doubles are better again for that dynamic/contact, but probably a little more risk of injury in comparison. Defo build upto doubles with dynamic taps till you get the jist of the technique in campusing. IMO.
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jmeizis
May 2, 2012, 5:41 PM
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It seems like you have good strength in your fingers (V6/V7 don't usually feature big holds or good body positions for easier holds) but it seems like your strength in other areas might be lacking (8 pullups aren't that many).
Very basic: one armed traverses or on easy routes. It requires dynamic movement just to do it with one arm. This would probably be too easy for you but it's a good warm up.
Basic: Campus overhanging jug hauls or basic laddering on a campus board. Build up from 1-2-3-4 to bigger spacing 1-3-5-7, 1-4-7-10, etc. Laddering includes coming down.
Intermediate: Touches, go from 1-4-1 with one hand and switch. Can go smaller or bigger for corresponding difficulty
Advanced: Doubles, going with both hands up or down. 1-3-2-4, etc. The bigger the distance the harder that will be...I can't do this. I consider myself pretty weak on power. This is what you see in the flesh video.
Honestly if you can do doubles then you've got plenty of power and you're probably lacking in something else. Really, how often do you get on a hard boulder problem and think, oh I should cut my feet and just put all my weight on this half pad crimp.
Campusing itself is a pretty advanced training tool so you really have to be careful getting into it so you don't wreck your fingers or shoulders. In that regard I think flesh's video is cool but might not be helpful for you at this time. Unless I didn't see the right one: http://player.vimeo.com/...ine=0&portrait=0
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tanman01
May 2, 2012, 6:47 PM
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jmeizis, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I'm trying to balance out my static strength by developing some more power/dynamic ability. I don't think it's ever going to be a real strong point of mine because of my size and weight, but I think there's a lot of room for improvement.
@flesh, awesome videos. I think I'll have to work up to them some, but I'll definitely be checking back once I've gotten some basic campusing work down.
Thanks again to everyone who's replied for the helpful tips. I can sure use the advice!
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jbro_135
May 3, 2012, 6:13 PM
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ceebo wrote: Single ladders then 1-3-5 and 1-5-9 are realy good in their own right. You need to find holds that your fingers can handle 1 arm lock offs on between rungs. On that you can then train slow pull through strength. You can use a more dynamic technique as in ''taps'' that will develop more dynamic and contact strength/technique. Doubles are better again for that dynamic/contact, but probably a little more risk of injury in comparison. Defo build upto doubles with dynamic taps till you get the jist of the technique in campusing. IMO.
Ceebo has some spot-on advice for once.
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