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climberyogi


Apr 30, 2012, 8:02 PM
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Moderates in Red Rocks?  (North_America: United_States: Nevada: Red_Rock_Canyon)
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Hey there! I'm super psyched to try climbing at Red Rocks since watching that film Western Gold (if you don't know what I'm talking about check out the trailer here: http://vimeo.com/39651458 or download here: http://savagefilms.net/store/ )

I'm more of a moderate boulderer though, so I'm wondering about V3-V6 climbs (that aren't crazy highballs like the guys in this film do). Any suggestions?

Also - what time of year is best? Winter?

Thanks!!!


tradmanclimbs


May 1, 2012, 5:04 AM
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Re: [climberyogi] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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learn to climb trad and sport and you will be able to go up on all of those absolutly beautifull big walls and towers that Red Rocks is blessed with..Cool


Dip


May 1, 2012, 5:17 AM
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Re: [climberyogi] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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climberyogi wrote:
Hey there! I'm super psyched to try climbing at Red Rocks since watching that film Western Gold (if you don't know what I'm talking about check out the trailer here: http://vimeo.com/39651458 or download here: http://savagefilms.net/store/ )

I'm more of a moderate boulderer though, so I'm wondering about V3-V6 climbs (that aren't crazy highballs like the guys in this film do). Any suggestions?

Also - what time of year is best? Winter?

Thanks!!!


There are otheres who can comment further on this, but if you're looking for a concentration of boulder problems in that specified range, as well as easier and harder, check out the Kraft boulders. Short approach, beautiful scenery, good bouldering. People seem to be going to Red Rock more and more just to boulder, so feel free to ignore the folks telling you to learn to trad climb, you won't be alone.

While you can climb there year round, you'll do best to avoid the hottest and coldest months of the year, especially if you only have a limited amount of days to devote to climbing. Shoot for October/November or March/April for optimal weather, and even then be prepared for whatever mother nature throws at you.


tradmanclimbs


May 1, 2012, 5:24 AM
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Re: [Dip] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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I once took a pebble pincher up Hessitation and Overture on Washbowl cliff in the Daks just a few days before his big bouldering trip to Europe. He was like. OMG you have ruined me. Now I am going to be looking up at all those big cliffs and wishing I was up there looking down instead of down here looking upCool


Dip


May 1, 2012, 5:27 AM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
I once took a pebble pincher up Hessitation and Overture on Washbowl cliff in the Daks just a few days before his big bouldering trip to Europe. He was like. OMG you have ruined me. Now I am going to be looking up at all those big cliffs and wishing I was up there looking down instead of down here looking upCool


Well yeah dude i'm not sayin i go to red rock just to boulder, but there's definitely a lot who do, and the numbers are steadily growing. This is fine though, as there are already plenty of people back in the canyons...


climberyogi


May 1, 2012, 6:31 AM
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Re: [Dip] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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Thanks so much Dip! My impression was that red rocks was more of a trad place - its good to hear that there is a lot of good bouldering at Kraft.

BTW - I did some searching and found a few guidebooks online... do you know which would be the best bet?


Dip


May 1, 2012, 6:33 AM
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Re: [climberyogi] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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climberyogi wrote:
Thanks so much Dip! My impression was that red rocks was more of a trad place - its good to hear that there is a lot of good bouldering at Kraft.

BTW - I did some searching and found a few guidebooks online... do you know which would be the best bet?

There's a Southern Nevada bouldering guide out, forget who wrote it, but it's super rad. Full color, big pictures, tons of info on everything from the geology to the history of human habitation in the area. Get that one.


Edit to add link to guidebook: http://www.snellpress.com/snb/index.html


(This post was edited by Dip on May 1, 2012, 6:35 AM)


craglady


May 5, 2012, 8:19 AM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light -


divnamite


May 8, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Re: [craglady] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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Can't speak for sports routes, but the grade at Red Rock is a lot softer than Gunks and Yosemite.


craglady


May 8, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Perfect. Greatly appreciate the comment!


climbingaggie03


May 8, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Re: [craglady] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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There's tons of sport climbing in red rocks, Check out mountain project, or get a guide book. You'll probably like the black corridor.


csproul


May 8, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Re: [craglady] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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craglady wrote:
Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light -

Where are these soft contemporary grades in NC that you speak of? I need to find me some of those!


coppertone


May 8, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Re: [csproul] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
craglady wrote:
Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light -

Seneca and many routes at the New in WV are also not soft. Grades are so subjective from crag to crag, route to route and also simply from differing types and styles of climbing. Just climb and have fun. Don't worry about the grades.

Where are these soft contemporary grades in NC that you speak of? I need to find me some of those!


csproul


May 8, 2012, 11:20 AM
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coppertone wrote:
csproul wrote:
craglady wrote:
Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light -

Seneca and many routes at the New in WV are also not soft. Grades are so subjective from crag to crag, route to route and also simply from differing types and styles of climbing. Just climb and have fun. Don't worry about the grades.

Where are these soft contemporary grades in NC that you speak of? I need to find me some of those!
Cheesetits are soft.


bigredscowboy


Feb 28, 2013, 6:01 PM
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Re: [craglady] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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craglady wrote:
you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC?

I'm sorry, what?! There are 7+'s in NC that are harder than 10a's in the Black Corridor. Moore's and Seneca are notoriously harder than anything in Red Rocks per grade. Not to mention that Stone mountain (and some spots in Linville Gorge) are responsible for my signature quote


USnavy


Feb 28, 2013, 8:54 PM
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Re: [bigredscowboy] Moderates in Red Rocks? [In reply to]
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bigredscowboy wrote:
craglady wrote:
you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC?

I'm sorry, what?! There are 7+'s in NC that are harder than 10a's in the Black Corridor. Moore's and Seneca are notoriously harder than anything in Red Rocks per grade. Not to mention that Stone mountain (and some spots in Linville Gorge) are responsible for my signature quote
There are 5.7+ trad routes in Red Rocks that are harder than 10a's in the Black Corridor.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 28, 2013, 8:55 PM)


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