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carabiners/quickdraw
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myrand


May 1, 2012, 3:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2012
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carabiners/quickdraw
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hi folks
i am looking for a little piece of information that i cant find anywhere.
i have to go out and buy quickdraws for sporting, mostly indoor, but i will certainly go out sometimes in the rocky's.

the big problem i have is that i don't understand the big deal between solid and wire-gates.

i want wire-gates for the rope side, but as for the bolt side, i don't know. some manufacturers are producing solid-gates on the nut side and wire-gate on the rope side, there must be a reason and i cant figure it out.

also, those super-light carabiners, since they seems to cut quite a bit of material, what is the result when a fall occur. do the bolts leave marks, and damage the biners ?


acorneau


May 1, 2012, 5:51 PM
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Re: [myrand] carabiners/quickdraw [In reply to]
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myrand wrote:
hi folks
i am looking for a little piece of information that i cant find anywhere.
i have to go out and buy quickdraws for sporting, mostly indoor, but i will certainly go out sometimes in the rocky's.

the big problem i have is that i don't understand the big deal between solid and wire-gates.

i want wire-gates for the rope side, but as for the bolt side, i don't know. some manufacturers are producing solid-gates on the nut side and wire-gate on the rope side, there must be a reason and i cant figure it out.

also, those super-light carabiners, since they seems to cut quite a bit of material, what is the result when a fall occur. do the bolts leave marks, and damage the biners ?


Wire-gates help prevent what is called "gate lash" where the mass of the gate can result in the gate of the biner being open at the moment of impact, resulting in a open-gate strength of ~1/3 of the closed-gate strength.

The bolt-side of the quickdraw isn't necessarily affected by this phenomenon so it more of a personal preference on whether you want a wire-gate or a solid-gate biner on the bolt end.

As to your question about light-weight biners; they are designed so the rope-bearing surface of the biner is roughly the same as a non-light-weight biner, so no real issue.


shockabuku


May 1, 2012, 7:23 PM
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Re: [myrand] carabiners/quickdraw [In reply to]
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The bolts leave marks on the biners regardless if they're lightweight or not, some gouging occurs - it's a good idea to be clear which is the bolt end and which the rope end of your quickdraw.

Wiregates may be easier to clip with the rope and they definitely offer more gate clearance (width of the opening when the gate is all the way open).

I've heard that wiregates may catch on the bolt head more easily and cause the gate to open if the draw rotates into the bolt.


myrand


May 1, 2012, 8:11 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2012
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Re: [myrand] carabiners/quickdraw [In reply to]
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thanks for your answers. i was afraid about reasons other than the biner not catching in the bolt when cleaning, but i can live with that little issue.

decision is going toward the wild country nitro, hopefully i get to try them on Saturday.


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