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Questionable Rap anchor
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climbingaggie03


May 1, 2012, 6:08 PM
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Questionable Rap anchor
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So I've been climbing in Moab and colorado lately and I keep running into these sketchy looking hardware style hook things at the top of climbs. The first one I thought was just a fluke, but I keep finding them so I thought I'd see what people think.

Is this some climbing hardware that I don't recognize? or are people using cheap hardware store stuff cause times are hard? The only marking on this thing that I could find is on the "gate" where the word china is written.



On this climb, there was only one hook, but all the other climbs I've been on have had 2. They have all had wear on them that look like people have tr'ed on them but I haven't clipped them.


acorneau


May 1, 2012, 6:57 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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They're called "Mussy hooks" and I believe they're really designed for chain/towing applications.

Not sure who started using them originally but the idea is they're super-beefy so you can TR through them and they'll take a long time before you need you replace them.

Don't know if they have a real rating but I'm fairly certain they're not from a typical climbing hardware company (like Fixe).

Fish sells them here:

http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/bolting.html


(This post was edited by acorneau on May 1, 2012, 6:59 PM)


climbingaggie03


May 1, 2012, 7:39 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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good to know, they look plenty beefy, but I guess I'm just skeptical of gear that doesn't have a rating on it. Also the gate seems kinda weak, but I guess it's unlikely that it'll get loaded.


6pacfershur


May 1, 2012, 7:57 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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climbingaggie03 wrote:
the gate seems kinda weak, but I guess it's unlikely that it'll get loaded.
a lot of weird voodoo can happen around a TR anchor; dont use those fuckers....


potreroed


May 1, 2012, 9:32 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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Just like the quicklinks those hooks are prolly plenty strong, BUT...I'm sure there is no real quality control in their manufacturing process which means you never know when you might be using one from a bad batch.


stickyfingerz


May 2, 2012, 12:48 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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Most of the sport routes (and many of the trad lines) on the eastside of the sierra have them. ORG, alabama hills, pine creek, clark canyon, etc... They're fine to use and cheap and easy to replace. The current standard around here.

Maximus sells 'em too.

http://maximuspress.com/...tail.php?prod=fmp014


(This post was edited by stickyfingerz on May 2, 2012, 12:53 AM)


roadstead


May 2, 2012, 5:38 AM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
climbingaggie03 wrote:
the gate seems kinda weak, but I guess it's unlikely that it'll get loaded.
In reply to:
a lot of weird voodoo can happen around a TR anchor; dont use those fuckers....

The weird voodoo is in your Fucken head!


6pacfershur


May 2, 2012, 9:29 AM
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Re: [roadstead] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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didnt see any $5 mussy hook anchors when i climbed at frenchman's coulee, icicle creek canyon or index....guess they havent figured out what a smokin' hot deal they are?


lena_chita
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May 2, 2012, 9:33 AM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Questionable Rap anchor [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
climbingaggie03 wrote:
the gate seems kinda weak, but I guess it's unlikely that it'll get loaded.
a lot of weird voodoo can happen around a TR anchor; dont use those fuckers....

They are fairly common around the Red on the anchors of popular sport climbs, and people lower off of them all the time. (the idea is that you can just drop the rope into the hooks, and not have to do the TR transfer when cleaning the route)

The use of them as TR anchors would be frowned upon (TR through your own draws is a standard approach), but I have, on many occasions, lowered off of them.


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