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Help with shoe upgrade
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gogreen


May 1, 2012, 8:06 PM
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Help with shoe upgrade
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Hey everyone,

So i have been climbing for about 1 1/2 to 2 years now, started off doing bouldering and some gym top roping. Lately i have been doing alot more outdoor lead climbing. Currently i am climbing 5.10 a.b.c's and a couple 5.11. i am climbing with La Sportiva miura's currently but i am wanting to get a shoe that has more aggression, and is tighter on my foot. I would like a shoe that is pretty versatile, but also powerful when i need it so that i can move up to harder climbs as i progress and even to some trad climbing later on. I live in texas and do most my climbing out in Austin but in the next few months i will be living in fort collins CO for college.
I dont have much knowledge on shoes and looking through magazines and the internet has made it even harder to decide i think i have narrowed it down to the Scarpa Boostics, vapor v, and foerce, 5.10 arrowheads and the la sportiva testarossa. If you have any recommendations it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks alot for your help.

P.S. - my foot is pretty narrow and i have a very high instep.


(This post was edited by gogreen on May 1, 2012, 8:09 PM)


shockabuku


May 2, 2012, 6:17 AM
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Re: [gogreen] Help with shoe upgrade [In reply to]
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gogreen wrote:
Hey everyone,

So i have been climbing for about 1 1/2 to 2 years now, started off doing bouldering and some gym top roping. Lately i have been doing alot more outdoor lead climbing. Currently i am climbing 5.10 a.b.c's and a couple 5.11. i am climbing with La Sportiva miura's currently but i am wanting to get a shoe that has more aggression, and is tighter on my foot. I would like a shoe that is pretty versatile, but also powerful when i need it so that i can move up to harder climbs as i progress and even to some trad climbing later on. I live in texas and do most my climbing out in Austin but in the next few months i will be living in fort collins CO for college.
I dont have much knowledge on shoes and looking through magazines and the internet has made it even harder to decide i think i have narrowed it down to the Scarpa Boostics, vapor v, and foerce, 5.10 arrowheads and the la sportiva testarossa. If you have any recommendations it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks alot for your help.

P.S. - my foot is pretty narrow and i have a very high instep.

Unless you didn't size them right the LS Miura is a great shoe that will do everything you want. If you want an aggressive, downturned shoe the Boostics, Vapor, and Testarossa have that. The Feroce is a little more aggressive than the Miura (lace-up) but I don't think it's as aggressive as the others. I don't know about the Arrowheads.

Frankly, having lived in Fort Collins for a few years and climbed around there I would get a better fitting pair of Miura's. They were my favorite shoe for the kind of climbing you find in that area which is a lot of edgy granite in the near vertical range, some overhanging a little (some bigger like in Clear Creek), some slabby. Other nearby climbing is granite trad/cracks (Vedavoo, Lumpy Ridge), Eldorado Canyon sandstone, and if you go farther some limestone sport (Rifle, Shelf, Wyoming). The Miura, if properly fitted, should do it all reasonably well. An aggressive sport shoe like the others you mentioned would probably only be an asset at the limestone sport areas.

I find that the Miura is a narrow shoe. The Boostic may not fit you with a narrow foot but I base that on the fit of the older, but similar, Booster. The Feroce has a very slim (top to bottom) profile in the toes. I currently have a pair of Vapor V's which I find slightly inferior to the LS Miura velcro due to what appears to be a slightly more rounded toe box.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on May 2, 2012, 6:20 AM)


gogreen


May 2, 2012, 7:14 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Help with shoe upgrade [In reply to]
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Shockabuku,

Yeah i think they may not be properly fitted. They are also lace ups and im looking for a pair of velcro shoes. Thanks alot for your input and information on Colorado, now i have some better insight to what i should be expecting for up there and better knowledge on the shoes. i didn't think about the difference in shoe to rock type.

Thanks again


(This post was edited by gogreen on May 2, 2012, 7:19 AM)


johnwesely


May 2, 2012, 7:15 AM
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Re: [gogreen] Help with shoe upgrade [In reply to]
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You definitely do not need a more aggressive shoe.


jae8908


May 2, 2012, 11:11 AM
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Registered: May 15, 2011
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Re: [gogreen] Help with shoe upgrade [In reply to]
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You shouldn't need more agressive shoes. If you want velcro, get the miura velcros. If you just do not like the miuras and want a more agressive shoe get the scarpa boosters or sportiva solutions.


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