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Scoobdoo6559
May 2, 2012, 2:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2011
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I just purchased a Metolius Training Board and mounted it to the Blank Slate backboard rig in my apartment.
What is the general consensus of how effective thee are in developing finger/hand/arm strength and grip, etc?
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 2, 2012, 4:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Scoobdoo6559 wrote: I just purchased a Metolius Training Board and mounted it to the Blank Slate backboard rig in my apartment. What is the general consensus of how effective thee are in developing finger/hand/arm strength and grip, etc?
Buying first and asking questions later seems to be the general consensus... 
Yes, hangboards are effective at increasing your contact strength. If you use them right, that is.
How relevant it would be for your overall climbing performance depends on how well you climb to begin with, how long you have been climbing, and what other weaknesses you have. You might get stronger. or you might get injured.
If there was no brochure describing a sample hangboard workout with the board that you ordered, google Metholius 10 min beginner hangboard workout and use that as your starting point.
If you have been climbing for several years and are climbing at about 5.12 level-- then search for rockprodigy hangboard workout on this forum. And be prepared for a fair about of reading and information processing.
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jae8908
May 2, 2012, 5:55 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2011
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They are effective if used correctly.
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mr.tastycakes
May 2, 2012, 7:16 PM
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Very effective. Everybody warns of fingerboard injuries, but you can just as easily get hurt "just climbing" if your fingers aren't prepared for the holds you're using.
Most people are doing some variation of "repeaters" on the hangboard...search this site, or google, "making of a rock prodigy."
*standard disclaimer: movement is king, climbing is a skill sport, hangboarding is supplemental (not primary) training, hangboarding will not be effective for beginners with crude/undeveloped movement skills, etc. etc. etc.
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madisonclimber
May 14, 2012, 9:22 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2012
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How were you able to mount the Metolius hangboard onto the Blank Slate? did you drill it in or were you able to use the bolts? and also what model metolius hangboard did you get? 3D?
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