Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Metolius Training Board
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


Scoobdoo6559


May 2, 2012, 7:30 AM
Post #1 of 6 (2502 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2011
Posts: 13

Metolius Training Board
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just purchased a Metolius Training Board and mounted it to the Blank Slate backboard rig in my apartment.

What is the general consensus of how effective thee are in developing finger/hand/arm strength and grip, etc?


lena_chita
Moderator

May 2, 2012, 9:40 AM
Post #2 of 6 (2462 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5666

Re: [Scoobdoo6559] Metolius Training Board [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Scoobdoo6559 wrote:
I just purchased a Metolius Training Board and mounted it to the Blank Slate backboard rig in my apartment.

What is the general consensus of how effective thee are in developing finger/hand/arm strength and grip, etc?


Buying first and asking questions later seems to be the general consensus... Tongue

Yes, hangboards are effective at increasing your contact strength. If you use them right, that is.

How relevant it would be for your overall climbing performance depends on how well you climb to begin with, how long you have been climbing, and what other weaknesses you have. You might get stronger. or you might get injured.

If there was no brochure describing a sample hangboard workout with the board that you ordered, google Metholius 10 min beginner hangboard workout and use that as your starting point.

If you have been climbing for several years and are climbing at about 5.12 level-- then search for rockprodigy hangboard workout on this forum. And be prepared for a fair about of reading and information processing.


jae8908


May 2, 2012, 10:55 AM
Post #3 of 6 (2432 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 270

Re: [Scoobdoo6559] Metolius Training Board [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

They are effective if used correctly.


mr.tastycakes


May 2, 2012, 12:16 PM
Post #4 of 6 (2411 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [Scoobdoo6559] Metolius Training Board [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Very effective. Everybody warns of fingerboard injuries, but you can just as easily get hurt "just climbing" if your fingers aren't prepared for the holds you're using.

Most people are doing some variation of "repeaters" on the hangboard...search this site, or google, "making of a rock prodigy."

*standard disclaimer: movement is king, climbing is a skill sport, hangboarding is supplemental (not primary) training, hangboarding will not be effective for beginners with crude/undeveloped movement skills, etc. etc. etc.


karmiclimber


May 2, 2012, 1:14 PM
Post #5 of 6 (2392 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 10, 2004
Posts: 1058

Re: [Scoobdoo6559] Metolius Training Board [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I just hung my Nicros warriorboard last night, so I was googling hangboard workouts today and came across this..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyNhRi6rSlw
Looks like its working for him Tongue


madisonclimber


May 14, 2012, 2:22 PM
Post #6 of 6 (2138 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2012
Posts: 1

Re: [Scoobdoo6559] Metolius Training Board [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How were you able to mount the Metolius hangboard onto the Blank Slate? did you drill it in or were you able to use the bolts? and also what model metolius hangboard did you get? 3D?


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook