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craglady


May 3, 2012, 6:06 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2009
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Spearfish  (North_America: United_States: South_Dakota)
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Never climbed at Spearfish. We are sport climbers, climbing mid grade 10 to mid 11 in Red River Gorge and New River Gorge. The guidebook doesn't give typical line height so I'm wondering about the runouts between typical bolts. I'd also like some input on difficulty of starts, general height of first bolts, dangers of the area such as falling rock, venomous snakes/other critters to watch for.

Generally looking for all types of trip beta including camping. One of our party is recovering from and injury which is why we need to climb light.

We plan to be there May 11 for several days - total one week in the general area. What are you expecting for temps?


USnavy


May 5, 2012, 3:22 AM
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Re: [craglady] Spearfish [In reply to]
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The routes I climbed in the Spearfish limestone crags area were safely bolted. The first bolts are close enough that you dont have to worry. If you are coming from the RRG you will be fine, the bolts in the RRG are spaced a lot further than the ones in Spearfish (unless you climb in Muir, in which it is about the same). However, if you climb in Custer State Park, expect everything [bolted] to be R or X. Just about every route I walked past or got on there had old and shitty bolts and huge bolt spacing, many times with no gear opportunities.


(This post was edited by USnavy on May 5, 2012, 3:24 AM)


craglady


May 5, 2012, 6:35 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Spearfish [In reply to]
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Thank you very much and yes, we do occasionally climb at Muir. We did climb in Custer last year and agree!!! We were fortunate enough to have some of the original climbing pioneers with us - two old timers who had done some of the FAs we've all read about. They are still as brazen and skilled as ever at making protection from chewing gum and pine needles! We had some great climbing but nary a one on those lovely bolts! Climbed some spires too and what an experience that was.

BTW can you speak to the grading at Spearfish? old school grades or are they roughly equivalent to RRG?


USnavy


May 5, 2012, 11:50 PM
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Re: [craglady] Spearfish [In reply to]
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craglady wrote:
Thank you very much and yes, we do occasionally climb at Muir. We did climb in Custer last year and agree!!! We were fortunate enough to have some of the original climbing pioneers with us - two old timers who had done some of the FAs we've all read about. They are still as brazen and skilled as ever at making protection from chewing gum and pine needles! We had some great climbing but nary a one on those lovely bolts! Climbed some spires too and what an experience that was.

BTW can you speak to the grading at Spearfish? old school grades or are they roughly equivalent to RRG?
They are the same as Muir.


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