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Gear placement when crack climbing
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hazcat


May 4, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Gear placement when crack climbing
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hello,

I'm always debating where to place gear (mainly cams) when crack climbing. Currently I mostly climb easier hand cracks, generally not splitters but cracks with more variations in them and constrictions.

Often the best place for gear is exactly where one wants to jam. For example above a constriction or in a nice short parallel section where a cam fits tight but is also good hands/feet so I'd rather not block it.

Any general tips for judging where to plug gear yet still let yourself move up the crack effectively?

thanks


climbingaggie03


May 4, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Re: [hazcat] Gear placement when crack climbing [In reply to]
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This is a delimma, maybe if the area is big enough, place the cam at the top of the constriction, and you can use the bottom as a hold. This has the added benefit of limiting walking.

You can also look for places that aren't good holds, but good gear. If you're climbing a mostly hand crack, but there are parts where it's fingers or smaller between pods, throw a nut or a small cam in the crack between the good holds.

I remember dealing with this when I first started leading, and thought it was really frustrating and would always be, but now I barely notice. Keep climbing and placing gear, it'll get easier.


Partner devkrev


May 4, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Re: [hazcat] Gear placement when crack climbing [In reply to]
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hazcat wrote:
hello,

I'm always debating where to place gear (mainly cams) when crack climbing. Currently I mostly climb easier hand cracks, generally not splitters but cracks with more variations in them and constrictions.

Often the best place for gear is exactly where one wants to jam. For example above a constriction or in a nice short parallel section where a cam fits tight but is also good hands/feet so I'd rather not block it.

Any general tips for judging where to plug gear yet still let yourself move up the crack effectively?

thanks


That's part of what makes crack climbing fun!

One tip is to place gear at your waist. Once your hands are above such placements...easier said than done though.


jeepnphreak


May 4, 2012, 1:12 PM
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Re: [devkrev] Gear placement when crack climbing [In reply to]
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devkrev wrote:

One tip is to place gear at your waist. Once your hands are above such placements...easier said than done though.

^^^ THis ^^. I know we all want to place gear over our heads to give a temperory TR security but if the gear is block your holds it can make the climb harder than it has to be.
I like to place at waist level extend the draw then there is no need to pull/lift the rope, just clip and go.


chadnsc


May 4, 2012, 1:22 PM
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Re: [jeepnphreak] Gear placement when crack climbing [In reply to]
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jeepnphreak wrote:
devkrev wrote:

One tip is to place gear at your waist. Once your hands are above such placements...easier said than done though.

^^^ THis ^^. I know we all want to place gear over our heads to give a temperory TR security but if the gear is block your holds it can make the climb harder than it has to be.
I like to place at waist level extend the draw then there is no need to pull/lift the rope, just clip and go.

I agree. I tend to place gear at waist or chest level. Of course it all depends on the climb.


tradmanclimbs


May 4, 2012, 1:37 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] Gear placement when crack climbing [In reply to]
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Plug and go... Keep doing it, get lots of miles in and someday you will either have it figured out or go senile and foreget how to do it..... the most important part is to enjoy the experience, the sceanery and the company..


Colinhoglund


May 7, 2012, 9:24 PM
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Re: [hazcat] Gear placement when crack climbing [In reply to]
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1+ Place gear chest or lower, no more "sport clipping". Kind of like iceclimbing, there's no such thing a 'big clip'.

Also, try to place gear from stances below/above the crux. Why hangout longer then you have to when it's hard. Climb lots of routes and eventually you'll see where you need pro, and where you can run it out a bit. Eventually the line between what you can do on bolts, and what you can do on gear gets pretty thin.


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