I guess I am out of step, as none of my toprope anchors represent "long term solutions", nor have I ever seen one rubbed through by contact with trees or boulders. Lugging a static rope around for TR'ing just seems like you are doomed to TR'ing for the day, plus it's only useful for anchor building, hauling or jugging and the latter two rarely occur with the former.

If your rope is rubbing enough to cause it to wear I'd take another look at how you rigged it.

Let be clear here Redlude indeed, tomcat suggested using a dynamic rope, and did not specify a "main lead rope", just you and someone else's dynamics.

This looks like yet another case of guiding practices being pushed onto recreational climbers as necessary, when they are not.

... snip...
Constantly being weighted and lowered through a biner, equals heaps of wear.

Let be clear here Redlude indeed, tomcat suggested using a dynamic rope, and did not specify a "main lead rope", just you and someone else's dynamics.

My question is, why would you need a static rope for anchor building? Is there some reason you and your nOOb friend who each own a climbing rope couldn't accomplish this?

Conversations like this is where RC always goes awry with people obsessing over the wrong details and priorities.

Setting up a TR anchor isn't rocket science and - old or new - any climbing-rated rope or webbing will do. The most important thing to possess for the job is common sense. And, unless you are courting Darwin hard with your anchor rigging, then far and away the most dangerous aspect of TRing is the prospect and possibility of a bad belay.

In that regard the three most important things you can do when out TRing remain - STFUAB, STFUAB, STFUAB.

The only "failures" I know of ones like the one John Sherman experienced.

http://www.supertopo.com/...9434&f=0&b=0

However, this was using a thin slings girth hitched together, and not...

I'm afraid a new climber trying to figure out how to setup a toprope anchor is going to look at this thread and become confused, as if learning this stuff isn't hard enough.

People that easily confused should seriously think about taking up a different pastime.

Curt

That's a nice sentiment.

That's a nice sentiment.

More like good advice, actually.

So I'd like to apologize for some misunderstandings and misconstruing in this thread. My own opinion and personal preference to choose static line over webbing is from personal guiding and rescue experience in the crags where my company guides in and trains in. The rock type we have at hand is very abrasive so extending anchors with webbing is not the best and safest option. My professional opinion.

To clear a couple other things up, I market, host and sell PCGI courses for approved East coast providers/mentors and I do NOT directly teach these courses. PCGI does NOT frown upon webbing. I am a Board of Directors member for PCGI, hence I am part of the team on a busness level and NOT on a technical development or educational level. I am not a certified PCGI guide. The reasons why I don't use it nor do any of my guides is clearly stated above.

So again, I apologize for any misunderstandings on this issue and just stress to choose the right material for the right application when extending top rope anchors. That is my opinion and NOT the opinions of PCGI. Unfortunately this thread was blown way out of proportion for various reasons which some were mine by not making myself clear enough and getting angry at some of the posters in here who seem to enjoy picking things apart in an argumentative manner. Again, my mistake for not making myself clear.

I hope this is read over correctly and I made my point/opinion showing that it is NOT something PCGI supports.

Thanks,
Joey

Let me guess... somebody in the PCGI saw this thread and, um, disapproved?

Yep, on a "disciplinary level."
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2582129#2582129

Frankly, I am shocked he is still listed as a Board member on the PCGI website. The guy is completely disreputable, lied about his credentials, flaunted the organization to win an Internet argument, and smeared any validity the PCGI had.

Yep, on a "disciplinary level."
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2582129#2582129

Frankly, I am shocked he is still listed as a Board member on the PCGI website. The guy is completely disreputable, lied about his credentials, flaunted the organization to win an Internet argument, and smeared any validity the PCGI had.