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Preventing finger injuries?
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crackmeup


May 7, 2012, 8:04 AM
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Preventing finger injuries?
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I've been doing some hard bouldering workouts lately, so I'm paying attention to my fingers. I don't have any pain while climbing or resting, but if I press the first joints of some of my fingers I feel some mild discomfort that wasn't there before. Nothing of concern yet, but this is about prevention.

This week and next I'm more focused on endurance, and avoiding small holds / crimps. Anything else I can do to try to avoid finger injury while following a training program?


bsyed


May 10, 2012, 4:44 PM
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Re: [crackmeup] Preventing finger injuries? [In reply to]
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cod-liver/shark-liver oil pills, more food, more sleep = better recovery.

there was a link about a study on cod-liver oil and joint pain on another forum, i'll see if i can find it.


mr.tastycakes


May 16, 2012, 7:54 AM
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Re: [crackmeup] Preventing finger injuries? [In reply to]
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more rest, less climbing, especially on crimps and other tweaky holds. If your PIP joints are inflamed, ice your fingers. If you're overweight for climbing, losing some weight is a good idea for your finger health (personal experience).


crackmeup


May 16, 2012, 8:35 AM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] Preventing finger injuries? [In reply to]
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Thanks. That's what I've been doing pretty much (other than the weight part, which is not an issue for me).

I've been following Dave Macleod's advice: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...njuries-article.html

For the time being I'm sticking to easier problems with bigger holds, and focusing on endurance instead of power. That plus the ice and massage seems to be helping. The only discomfort I have left is around the A2 pulley in the middle finger of my left hand.

What's interesting is that it doesn't hurt at all when climbing, only when I apply pressure. I realized that something wasn't right a couple weeks ago, when someone squeezed my hand mildly and it hurt. Made me realize that I'd been doing hard boulder problems nonstop for several weeks, and my fingers were quietly suffering.

Lessons learned for me: listen to my body more, don't try to keep up with younger climbers, sometimes resting is the best workout.


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