Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Hand board vs hand holds for training?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


Metorn


May 9, 2012, 10:32 AM
Post #1 of 7 (3029 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2012
Posts: 8

Hand board vs hand holds for training?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm new to climbing, but my arms are in a good shape thanks to playing hand drums, guitar and BD donut in every coat.
There is always a room for improvement, so I'm considering the addition of a fingerboard or something similar to my exercise room. It has open ceiling and some beams are exposed, so I can be creative here:



I'm trying to decide if I want a dedicated fingerboard:

Moon Board ~$55


Metolius Simulator 3D ~$65


DRCC V5.12 Board ~ $75

or buy a double set of hand holds ~$50:

and put them on symmetrically. But will they provide enough variety on their own?

Also I'm no stranger when it comes to carpeting and can rout my own board from a hardwood (plans anyone?), but not sure if it's worth it.

Maybe mix and match them for added fun? Don't want to go over the roof though, money and time are limiting factors.

Any ideas or suggestions?


NJSlacker


May 9, 2012, 2:44 PM
Post #2 of 7 (2976 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 16, 2008
Posts: 212

Re: [Metorn] Hand board vs hand holds for training? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One thing to remember is that individual holds won't be mirrored holds of each other, so your hands wouldn't actually be holding the same thing. That is one nice thing about a hangboard, they're actually symmetrical.


Metorn


May 11, 2012, 6:32 AM
Post #3 of 7 (2853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2012
Posts: 8

Re: [NJSlacker] Hand board vs hand holds for training? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thats the idea - to pick up two similar sets of holds and set them up symmetrically.


rschap


May 11, 2012, 9:11 AM
Post #4 of 7 (2817 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 590

Re: [Metorn] Hand board vs hand holds for training? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The hold sets work but I would get the holds from a different company. Also check out Atomik's web site, they have a hole thing on holds based hang boards.

On a hang board note, my gym has 10-12 different hang boards from 4-5 different companies. We work with people of all different abilities and we find that the Grilito from Revolution works the best for beginner-upper intermediate (not that it's not good for advanced there are just better advanced boards). The V5.12 or the Iron Palm from So Ill would be my choices for intermediate-advanced. Bang for the buck I'd go with the V5.12 though the blister board from So Ill is $42 and I have to say I'm impressed with it for what it is. If I was on a budget, I'd get one.

My personal opinion, if you get Metolius holds you will be disappointed . The quality is shite and the texture sucks for training on. Metolius makes a lot of great gear, plastic holds are not on that list. The Wood holds, campus rungs and wood hang boards would be the only things I would get from them hold wise.


(This post was edited by rschap on May 11, 2012, 9:29 AM)


Metorn


May 11, 2012, 10:49 AM
Post #5 of 7 (2793 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2012
Posts: 8

Re: [rschap] Hand board vs hand holds for training? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Any opinion on Moon board?

What other brands of holds are out there worth looking at? REI and EMS only carry Metolius it seems. I was about to pick up this set: http://www.ems.com/...;cp=3677347.11360118
Plenty to choose from and people seem to be happy with them.


johnwesely


May 11, 2012, 1:18 PM
Post #6 of 7 (2776 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [Metorn] Hand board vs hand holds for training? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Metorn wrote:
Any opinion on Moon board?

What other brands of holds are out there worth looking at? REI and EMS only carry Metolius it seems. I was about to pick up this set: http://www.ems.com/...;cp=3677347.11360118
Plenty to choose from and people seem to be happy with them.

The moon board is a more advanced board. Some of the holds are really small.


rschap


May 11, 2012, 5:34 PM
Post #7 of 7 (2736 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 590

Re: [johnwesely] Hand board vs hand holds for training? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Don't have a Moon board so I can't say. Unless you are already climbing .11+/.12 you don't want the Metolius chip sets. Those holds are small.

Do you have a gift card to REI or EMS? If not there are a lot of places that sell holds like http://www.cheapholds.com or you can order from the manufactures websites.


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook