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wonderwoman


May 9, 2012, 10:45 AM
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To Stretch or Not to Stretch
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So, I'm listening to Terry Gross on Fresh Air and I just heard this interesting tidbit:

To Stretch Or Not To Stretch?: Research now suggests that stretching before a workout isn't necessarily a good thing, because it causes the brain to think you're about to tear those muscles, says Reynolds. "When you stretch and hold a pose, the brain thinks you are about to damage yourself and it then sends out nerve impulses that actually tighten the muscles," she explains. "... The result is, you're less ready for activity, not more ready for activity."

http://www.wbur.org/...-just-for-20-minutes

That's probably the only climbing related piece of the program, but what do folks think? I've always thought that I was slacking by not stretching before climbing, but maybe I am doing the right thing after all.


edge


May 9, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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wonderwoman wrote:
So, I'm listening to Terry Gross on Fresh Air and I just heard this interesting tidbit:

To Stretch Or Not To Stretch?: Research now suggests that stretching before a workout isn't necessarily a good thing, because it causes the brain to think you're about to tear those muscles, says Reynolds. "When you stretch and hold a pose, the brain thinks you are about to damage yourself and it then sends out nerve impulses that actually tighten the muscles," she explains. "... The result is, you're less ready for activity, not more ready for activity."

http://www.wbur.org/...-just-for-20-minutes

That's probably the only climbing related piece of the program, but what do folks think? I've always thought that I was slacking by not stretching before climbing, but maybe I am doing the right thing after all.

Wouldn't you get the same result after your first climb?

Would your muscles tighten and inhibit you for the rest of the day?

As for me, I'll continue to stretch. I know for a fact that I can high step much further after warming up than just jumping on the wall and going "cold."


wonderwoman


May 9, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Re: [edge] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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I'm not sure. When I stretch, I tend to hold the pose for longer periods of time than if I am in the process of climbing and stretching to reach for the next hold. Maybe it revolves around the matter of holding the pose versus movement.


wmshub


May 9, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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I always stretch at night, just before I go to sleep. My warmup is doing mild exercise, not stretching. It has worked for me for years and across several different sports. My flexibility seems to be above average, although below contortionist level, and I never feel like I'm not warmed up enough when I start the "real" exercise I'm doing.


amarius


May 9, 2012, 11:27 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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Most likely the statement was regarding static stretching, and is, probably, based on this article

IIRC, most alphabet experts recommend dynamic stretching before exercise, and static after.

Edit - meta study on stretching

(This post was edited by amarius on May 9, 2012, 11:30 AM)


lena_chita
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May 9, 2012, 11:27 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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wonderwoman wrote:
I'm not sure. When I stretch, I tend to hold the pose for longer periods of time than if I am in the process of climbing and stretching to reach for the next hold. Maybe it revolves around the matter of holding the pose versus movement.

I forget where I read this, but I emember hearing from several sources that your best pre-physical-activity routine is not a stretch-and-hold type of stretch, but rather dynamic range-of-motion warmup stretching. (e.i. you should be swinging your arms around, rotating shoulders back/forth up/down, tilting the head to stretch the neck, rotating the wrists and elbows, pumping the fists open/closed, etc. etc.) The more conventional stretch should be done at the end of the activity.

I don't know if there is truth to it, but I do know that wriggling the fingers and rotating the shoulders feels better in the morning before climbing, and deep stretching feels much better after 1.5 hours of a yoga class. It never feels right to start by doing a deep stretch with cold muscles.


lena_chita
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May 9, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Re: [amarius] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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amarius wrote:
Most likely the statement was regarding static stretching, and is, probably, based on this article

IIRC, most alphabet experts recommend dynamic stretching before exercise, and static after.

Ah, thanks for finding a reference!


edge


May 9, 2012, 12:16 PM
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How hard does Terry Gros climb, btw?


wonderwoman


May 9, 2012, 12:24 PM
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She probably climbs the stairs. But her interviewee was the NYT Phys Ed columnist, Gretchen Reynolds:

http://topics.nytimes.com/..._reynolds/index.html

I don't know anything about her climbing ability, either.


karmiclimber


May 9, 2012, 2:58 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
So, I'm listening to Terry Gross on Fresh Air and I just heard this interesting tidbit:

To Stretch Or Not To Stretch?: Research now suggests that stretching before a workout isn't necessarily a good thing, because it causes the brain to think you're about to tear those muscles, says Reynolds. "When you stretch and hold a pose, the brain thinks you are about to damage yourself and it then sends out nerve impulses that actually tighten the muscles," she explains. "... The result is, you're less ready for activity, not more ready for activity."

http://www.wbur.org/...-just-for-20-minutes

That's probably the only climbing related piece of the program, but what do folks think? I've always thought that I was slacking by not stretching before climbing, but maybe I am doing the right thing after all.

I don't stretch before climbing. Outside, I hope for a good approach for a warm up. Inside, I hop on the elliptical for 30 mins before I go to the climbing gym. If my muscles get tight while I'm climbing, I do stretch them out a bit. I don't stretch at the climbing gym after climbing...but I do when I get home. On a side note, I think yoga and climbing go together like pb and chocolate...perfectly.


RedRightHand


May 10, 2012, 2:57 AM
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I usually do a 5-10 minute warm up (easy traversing is ideal if indoor). Then a short static session (about two exercices) followed by dynamic session. Not only do my muscles feel less strained the day after, I also feel that i have a lot more reach.

Although I have only been climbing for 5 months, I would recommend this routine. I come from a kickboxing background, a sport where stretching is very important, and used to do this same routine.

So definitely: to stretch


sungam


May 10, 2012, 5:54 AM
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I think the general idea is that dynamic stretches before a workout is beneficial, but static stretching is best done afterwards or as a session of it's own.


granite_grrl


May 10, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Re: [sungam] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
I think the general idea is that dynamic stretches before a workout is beneficial, but static stretching is best done afterwards or as a session of it's own.

This is my understanding too. I have also been told that static streching can reduce your power and make you more prone to injury during your workout.


sungam


May 10, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
sungam wrote:
I think the general idea is that dynamic stretches before a workout is beneficial, but static stretching is best done afterwards or as a session of it's own.

This is my understanding too. I have also been told that static streching can reduce your power and make you more prone to injury during your workout.
Yep, I was told the same thing by my friend who is doing a masters in sports science. Seemed legit.


shockabuku


May 10, 2012, 3:08 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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At most I do dynamic stretching before climbing, not usually even that. I find my fingers are what really needs to ease into the process so I hit about 20 easy boulder problems (without any crimps) or climb two to four routes a few grades below my redpoint level and then progress to gradually harder things to warm everything up before I start trying to pull hard. I should probably do a little stretching after climbing but rarely do. I used to do yoga which was very good for my flexibility and probably good for my frame of mind but quit due to conflicts with the timing.


outsidethelines


May 10, 2012, 3:20 PM
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When in the gym, I usually traverse until I start to feel the blood start moving. Then I do about four to six V0's or V1's and then stretch out my arms and legs. It seems to work pretty well for me but I think it is up to everyone to find their own warmup routine to keep their body happy.


rmsusa


May 10, 2012, 3:26 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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I stretch a LOT, but not usually before activity. OTOH, I used to stretch religiously before gymnastics practice when I was in my 20's. YMMV. If you're decent at what you do, you can do it any way that feels good.


ceebo


May 11, 2012, 6:22 AM
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Re: [rmsusa] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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It's quite funny to me watching instructors take groups through rigerous dynamic warm ups.. but for their own personal climbing they dont do anything close to the same.

Since im a sucker for compareble examples here goes.

Any normal person who gets a gun pointed to their face and the triger pulled.. loses their face.

Any cop who gets a gun pointed to their face and the triger pulled.. the gun jams.

Could have game a lighter example, sorry.

- in before the gun-ho's correct me on the physics of being shot in the face and its actual effects.


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 11, 2012, 6:27 AM)


shockabuku


May 12, 2012, 6:02 PM
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Re: [ceebo] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
It's quite funny to me watching instructors take groups through rigerous dynamic warm ups.. but for their own personal climbing they dont do anything close to the same.

Since im a sucker for compareble examples here goes.

Any normal person who gets a gun pointed to their face and the triger pulled.. loses their face.

Any cop who gets a gun pointed to their face and the triger pulled.. the gun jams.

Could have game a lighter example, sorry.

- in before the gun-ho's correct me on the physics of being shot in the face and its actual effects.

Another case of nonsense.


spikeddem


May 13, 2012, 6:33 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
ceebo wrote:
It's quite funny to me watching instructors take groups through rigerous dynamic warm ups.. but for their own personal climbing they dont do anything close to the same.

Since im a sucker for compareble examples here goes.

Any normal person who gets a gun pointed to their face and the triger pulled.. loses their face.

Any cop who gets a gun pointed to their face and the triger pulled.. the gun jams.

Could have game a lighter example, sorry.

- in before the gun-ho's correct me on the physics of being shot in the face and its actual effects.

Another case of nonsense.

A second grader has been stealing passwords on RC.com again!


jamesnater


May 17, 2012, 2:19 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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Hmm, this certainly is a shock to me. I always feel good after stretching before climbing. I've always done it though, so I guess I've never noticed a difference. I also stretch afterwards as well.


hildenmw


May 22, 2012, 4:36 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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warm up and stretching are not the same . Same thing for flexability and range of motion. Keep a log over aperiod of time and find what works best for you.


hafilax


May 23, 2012, 9:41 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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Some light dynamic stretching after a warm up is generally a good idea. Static stretching for the most part isn't a great idea. The exception to this is for movements that work your body at the extremes of the range of motion. If you can improve your range of motion with some static stretching then this can offset the injury potential of straining a fully stretched muscle.

For example, for a lot of wide stemming a groin stretch might be good. YMMV


JackRock


Jun 5, 2012, 5:21 AM
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Re: [amarius] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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Can you please give me some examples what can be regarded as a dynamic stretching?


bentgate03


Jun 5, 2012, 6:48 AM
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Re: [JackRock] To Stretch or Not to Stretch [In reply to]
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Umm....Google dynamic stretching.

you get hundreds of videos and pictures as well as articles.

Think of it as moving while stretching. None of this hold and count crap.

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