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Masterkush
Jan 31, 2012, 4:37 AM
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Ive been climbing a little over a year now and recently started training a lot for climbing. I just bought a hangboard as well and was wondering how i should properly be using it (time wise). If i climb every other day, should i do hangboard training when i get back from climbing so that i have a day of rest for my fingers and back and then workout chest and triceps on my off days, or should i work chest and triceps the same day that i climb and use my hangboard sparingly throughout the week. Insight please
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ky2a
Jan 31, 2012, 5:01 AM
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I use a hangboard on days when I climb.. but its all pending on what Im climbing... If I'm climbing something thats really difficult then i wouldn't bother .. opposite for something easier.. But I generally have and easy climb day where I'll focus on technique etc.. and a hard climb day where I'll test my skills etc..
As for training chest and triceps.. once again it doesnt matter whether you train them on climbing days or not because you arent really using these muscles when climbing as to such that they are overtrained.. but from my perspective ( amatur bodybuilder ) its better to have 1 day set a side a week to train chest and tri's.. TRAIN them once a week and thats enough...
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noahfor
Jan 31, 2012, 6:01 AM
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If your intent for training chest and triceps is just to strengthen them for injury prevention then don't overdo it. It really doesn't take that much work to strengthen muscles. You don't have to blast them into oblivion. 3 sets of 5 dips, once or twice a week, adding 2.5 - 5 pounds of resistance per workout should do the trick. Try to place the workout where it will have the smallest impact on your climbing.
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eric_k
Jan 31, 2012, 2:37 PM
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Instead of spending too much time on the hang board make sure you get your actual climbing in first. I have been climbing for around six years and technique training takes a bulk of my time. Unless you are way better than me you could probably benefit from working technique since you have only been climbing a year. Look for weakness (slopers, overhangs, pinches, slabs) whatever you have trouble with work it. Once this has been done then use that hang board to finish your fingers off, but not before, save that juice for climbing. And make sure you don't use the hang board on your off days. Your tendons are in no way adapted to the extreme stresses of climbing so not taking proper rests will make your fingers go "POP"
Eric
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camhead
Jan 31, 2012, 4:15 PM
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Short answer:
you are probably not ready for hangboard training yet.
Long answer:
As Eric says, focus on technique right now. Hangboards are excellent tools for training; they build and stress your fingers and forearms MUCH more than any sort of gym climbing, systems boarding, or whatever.
However, hangboards are best for advanced climbers (over 3 years experience, solid at v6/5.12). Part of this is because they just train pure muscle, no technique or movement. This is fine for climbers who already have a solid technical base, and know how their bodies move over rock, but for beginners, you need to build technique before strength.
The fact that your profile mentioned some persistent elbow injuries only further confirms the fact that you're not ready.
Given that we've established this, most of your other questions about the details of a hangboard routine are really moot points. But, I'll answer them anyway in case anyone else is looking for info.
In reply to: If i climb every other day, should i do hangboard training when i get back from climbing so that i have a day of rest for my fingers and back ?
No. You will not get the most out of your hangboard workout at the end of a climbing session. I do prefer to really warm up before hangboarding; basically, my body should feel ready to start bouldering at my max limit. Other people that I know just do their hangboard routine completely at home, warming up just by hanging on jugs, and nothing else.
When and if you finally start using a hangboard the right way, you will probably find that you need 48-72 hours of recovery between sessions.
In reply to: should i work chest and triceps the same day that i climb and use my hangboard sparingly throughout the week?
Although, as I just mentioned, hangboards wiill trash your fingers, forearms, and maybe even your abs a bit, the exercises are so isolating that your chest and triceps will probably feel all right, even after a hard session. I am always able to do pushups, and even some juggy lockoff sets AFTER I hangboard, and have not had any trouble. It's just that anything that engages your forearms will need a lot of rest.
Hangboards can be tricky. Most people treat them just as something to hop on at the end of a gym session, or merely as glorified pullup bars, and that's really not what they're intended use is.
Here are a couple good links on hangboarding, but, I've got to reiterate the point to the original poster: You're not ready yet, and jumping into a hangboard phase will probably detract from your technique, injure your shoulder, and ultimately kill your climbing.
http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/...bel/The%20Specialist
http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training
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tH1e-swiN1e
Feb 1, 2012, 2:54 AM
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Heres my split. I like it, but every 3 weeks I add a day of lifting and have double workouts on Tues and Thurs and wed is another rest day.
Mon - Chest/tri
Tues - Climb
Wed - Legs
Thurs - Climb
Fri - Back/Bi
Sat - Rest
Sun - Climb
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ceebo
Feb 18, 2012, 10:29 PM
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Masterkush wrote: Ive been climbing a little over a year now and recently started training a lot for climbing. I just bought a hangboard as well and was wondering how i should properly be using it (time wise). If i climb every other day, should i do hangboard training when i get back from climbing so that i have a day of rest for my fingers and back and then workout chest and triceps on my off days, or should i work chest and triceps the same day that i climb and use my hangboard sparingly throughout the week. Insight please
Use it if you can't make it to climb OR if you had a realy short climbing session due to some random reason.
Later down the line once you feel you have solid technique you may want to target certain things with hand boards and campusing etc. At least for then you will have some basic idea of using hang board with reps and rest durations.
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RedRightHand
May 10, 2012, 1:27 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2012
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This is what I do:
Everyday: Running (30' to 60')
Monday: Upper body training
Thuesday: Climbing, focus on technique
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Climbing and/or bouldering
Friday: Upper body training
Saturday: Recreational squash (60')
Sunday: Rest or Long distance run (20-25km)
But I have been wondering if I should split out the upper body training in different muscle groups. Now I just do full upper body 2 times a week.
As to the fingerboard, I wouldn't now where to fit this in and frankly I don't think I'm ready since after five months of climbing my best is 6a indoors.
Ordered myself one of these though to train my forearms/grip in a safe way: http://www.gripstik.com/aboutgripstik.html
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bsyed
May 10, 2012, 11:02 PM
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What exactly does chest and tri training consist of?
It's pretty important to know what you're doing in those training sessions.
for example i have technique sessions before strength sessions so my nervous system isnt too tired to work out technique.
if im doing a workout e.g.:
Overhead press 1x5 65%, 1x5 70% 1xMax 75%
Full Cleans 3x5 75%
Front Squat 3x5 75%
then im not going to do a technique day the next day because my nervous system will still be recovering and skill refinement will be limited, it would be better to do technique training a day earlier.
(This post was edited by bsyed on May 10, 2012, 11:14 PM)
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