I think you are going to need to qualify elite more specifically than better than average.

Aw come on! For a minute there, I was elite!

Josh

Ha ha!!! You got one-starred for saying that! You're still pretty nifty in my book!

Me? I'm in rough shape right now.

Aw come on! For a minute there, I was elite!

Josh

is getting one starred bad? i thought his post was LOL worthy

Couple questions for you elite level guys:

What's your training like and how do you believe it differs from lower level climbers and when do you recommend climbers start to specialise their training?

What do you think separates climbing from other physical endeavours in terms of preparation and training?

What mainstream (olympic) sport do you think closely matches the challenges, learning and performance of climbing and why? (I'm guessing gymnastics?)

Climbing like any physical activity requires a level of conditioning to reach elite level (which is specific) but what would you recommend to someone who is just starting out with little to no base of strength (e.g. finds pull ups impossible, can't do a push up)?

Why do you think there is a large distaste about traditional strength training among the climbing community?

I would describe my training as loosely periodized. I do a period of strength where I focus on bouldering for a few months, and then I bring in endurance work, 4x4s, circuits, etc, for an equal time or until it is convenient for me to take a short one or two week break. When I am in the gym, I really focus on movement. Once I send a hard for me problem, I really like to repeat it over and over again. New climbers tend to climb something and then move on to that next big thing. Climbers should start to specialize their training when they need to and have the right attitude about climbing performance. When I see climbers training to project 5.11 sport climbs, I don't really think that makes any sense. Chances are that if they feel the need to train specifically to reach that level, they are doing something seriously wrong in their climbing, and they should figure out what that is first. A good attitude about performance is worth way more than any training program.
Climbing is sort of unique because excess weight is so detrimental to performance. If a basketball player bulks up a little bit, it might make him a little bit slower, but his momentum probably help make him a more intimidating on the court.

A common argument against supplemental training is that it would eat into the energy needed to climb well, but most training days only really leave the forearms completely exhausted. Climbers, myself included probably have a lot more energy to put into supplemental training than they would like to admit.

Equestrian.

Just climb. It will not take too long for climbing to get you strong enough to do almost any body weight exercise.

In reply to: Why do you think there is a large distaste about traditional strength training among the climbing community?

It doesn't really translate to performance gains directly. It is a net negative if it results in weight gain or time away from specific training. Training of any kind is generally looked down upon.

Simply putting a grade out there of 12+ means nothing in the elite dept. there are pleanty of gym monkeys out there who can crank 5.12 and V whatever yet cant get up a multi pitch 5.6. Witnessed this exact thing on Devils Tower. two 5.12 sport climbers from NRG spent about 11hrs on the 5.6 Durrance route on Devils tower ended up running out of water, bailing and loseing both their ropes. rangers asked us to go up and clean their ropes. heck I was barely a 5.8 leader @ the time and I was asked to clean up after 5.12 climbers who got completly spanked??? It is all relative... I feel that you could make a strong point for some climbers who rarely climb harder than hard 10 and some mid 11 to be elite climbers simply by the number of FA's they have and the big serious climbs that they do. I have a friend for example that hardly rock climbs, when he did rock climb it was in the 10 to 11 range but he routinly solos big winter routs, puts up multi pitch WI6X routs, solos multi pitch 5+ , climbs all over the world and is one serious bad assed elite climber yet I am pretty certain that he never climbed 5.12.. George Hurly is annother elite climber that comes to mind. Still putting up new climbs in his 70's certainly does not climb 5.12 and gaurenteed can climb many big routs that the average 5.12 sport/boulderer has little to zero chance of success on.. I feel in order to be considered elite in the sport arena you need to be solid on 13's and pushing into the 14s

Climbing is more like snowboarding than any other olympic sport. You get good by being a dirtbag, riding(climbing) as much as you possibly can, and you make movies in your free time while doing stupid shit. Beans right out of the can is considered a good meal, and bowl or two never hurt anyone either

So which one is making $10M/year like Shaun White?

I believe a climber could also loose a metal for weed, though.

In snowboarding you keep your shirt on while wearing a beanie, though. Actually the more I think about it, the less alike.

Just wondering - How many of you consider yourselves elite level climbers (better than the average climber).

What mainstream (olympic) sport do you think closely matches the challenges, learning and performance of climbing and why? (I'm guessing gymnastics?)

5.12 V7 sport boulder specific climbers are not elite. they are damn strong in one area but not elite.....