Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Shoe Recomendation
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


climbingaggie03


May 15, 2012, 9:07 PM
Post #1 of 12 (1783 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1172

Shoe Recomendation
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I'm in the market for new shoes for the first time in nearly 10 years. I had 2 pairs of 5.10 ascents, one that let my toes lay flat and were great all day and crack climbing, I have a tighter pair that gives me more performance but less comfort.

My comfortable shoes were in my haulbag in camp 4 and a mouse chewed on them and died in one of them, so I think they're retired.

Now I need some new all day/crack shoes. My first thought is some La sportiva Mythos, I also want to try some 5.10 Coyote VCS. I prefer velcro, but can live with laces. Also I have wide duck feet so shoes that fit well are hard to find. Are there any other shoes I should try on?


also if anybody has any ideas on how to get rid of dead mouse funk, I'm all ears.


climbingaggie03


May 17, 2012, 9:19 AM
Post #2 of 12 (1711 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1172

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

anyone?


SylviaSmile


May 17, 2012, 9:31 AM
Post #3 of 12 (1708 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2011
Posts: 982

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climbingaggie03 wrote:
So I'm in the market for new shoes for the first time in nearly 10 years. I had 2 pairs of 5.10 ascents, one that let my toes lay flat and were great all day and crack climbing, I have a tighter pair that gives me more performance but less comfort.

My comfortable shoes were in my haulbag in camp 4 and a mouse chewed on them and died in one of them, so I think they're retired.

Now I need some new all day/crack shoes. My first thought is some La sportiva Mythos, I also want to try some 5.10 Coyote VCS. I prefer velcro, but can live with laces. Also I have wide duck feet so shoes that fit well are hard to find. Are there any other shoes I should try on?


also if anybody has any ideas on how to get rid of dead mouse funk, I'm all ears.

Since you said velcro, I like my Spirit VCR Impact Zone shoes with velcro; they are comfortable for wearing for several hours without taking them off. I also have narrow feet and have to velcro them up all the way tight, so they'd probably have room for wider feet.


jp_sucks


May 17, 2012, 12:24 PM
Post #4 of 12 (1686 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 240

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you have really wide feet, stick with 5.10 shoes. If they're not too wide, check out Evolv shoes as well.


climbingaggie03


May 17, 2012, 12:46 PM
Post #5 of 12 (1675 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1172

Re: [jp_sucks] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have really wide feet, Triple E wide, even 5.10 shoes aren't really wide enough, my foot way over flows the sole using the rand on the outsides of the foot.


jp_sucks


May 17, 2012, 1:09 PM
Post #6 of 12 (1666 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 240

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Are you near an REI or some other big store with a good selection? Your best bet is going to be spending a few hrs in a store that carries 30-40 models and put the time in trying lots on.


jpanderson80


May 17, 2012, 1:58 PM
Post #7 of 12 (1654 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 9, 2012
Posts: 6

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My feet are wide too... 4E. I'm interested in hearing the responses too.

...just letting you know that you're not the only one out there. Hey... we're really good at smearing!


shockabuku


May 17, 2012, 2:54 PM
Post #8 of 12 (1645 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4856

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climbingaggie03 wrote:
I have really wide feet, Triple E wide, even 5.10 shoes aren't really wide enough, my foot way over flows the sole using the rand on the outsides of the foot.

The Mythos are relatively narrow - to start with. But since they're unlined leather they stretch a lot. I have a mildly wide foot and got a pair that were too small in both directions to start, and now I can wear them pretty much all day with no issues. They're also on about their 4th resole.


climbingaggie03


May 17, 2012, 3:28 PM
Post #9 of 12 (1638 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1172

Re: [jp_sucks] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm not near an REI or big outdoors store, but I do have one a couple of hours away that I'll probably hit up and try them on, I just don't want to try on every single model.


shockabuku


May 17, 2012, 5:33 PM
Post #10 of 12 (1618 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4856

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climbingaggie03 wrote:
I'm not near an REI or big outdoors store, but I do have one a couple of hours away that I'll probably hit up and try them on, I just don't want to try on every single model.

If I was driving a couple of hours to try on shoes I'd try on every one in which I was even remotely interested.


acorneau


May 18, 2012, 2:49 PM
Post #11 of 12 (1569 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [climbingaggie03] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm also in the wide/duck/hobbit feet category...

My usual everyday/gym shoe is the LS Nago (or it's velcro brother, the Arco). The Nago is available at REI and is actually on sale right now for ~$75.

Even though they're lace-up only you should also check out the TC Pro's. (When I have saved up some extra spending money I'm going to get a pair.)

I've also heard good things about Acopa's but I haven't had any opportunity to try a pair on yet.


wmshub


May 18, 2012, 3:07 PM
Post #12 of 12 (1563 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2012
Posts: 26

Re: [acorneau] Shoe Recomendation [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have wide toes but a narrow heel. I don't think there are any shoes that fit me properly right out of the box, but with laceups I can at least adjust to get things snug all along my foot. I know you said you wanted velcro, but if you're having fit problems then I think you should reconsider. Laces are just more adjustable. (I use Mythos and they fit me fine after I tweaked the lacing).


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook