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doruk


May 23, 2012, 6:57 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2011
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Boulder>Lead Problem
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Hey everyone.

i've been cimbing for almost 4 years and my traning majority was boulder.So my shape is like a boulderer. Problem is, i don't want to boulder anymore, so i'm passing to lead.
but when i'm training lead, i get tired quickly and i feel that i'm overmuscled.
i don't train boulder anymore. so what can i do to fix that? is there any spesific suggestion for something like that?
by the way i'm 20.
thank you.


(This post was edited by doruk on May 23, 2012, 6:57 AM)


surfstar


May 23, 2012, 8:14 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2011
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Re: [doruk] Boulder>Lead Problem [In reply to]
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Its a common boulderer's problem called premature climaxation. The issue is only being able to climb a few moves in a row before you're done. Always leaves your partner feeling dissatisfied and can be a strain on your relationship.


shockabuku


May 23, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [doruk] Boulder>Lead Problem [In reply to]
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doruk wrote:
Hey everyone.

i've been cimbing for almost 4 years and my traning majority was boulder.So my shape is like a boulderer. Problem is, i don't want to boulder anymore, so i'm passing to lead.
but when i'm training lead, i get tired quickly and i feel that i'm overmuscled.
i don't train boulder anymore. so what can i do to fix that? is there any spesific suggestion for something like that?
by the way i'm 20.
thank you.

Good boulderers make good sport climbers but developing endurance takes time. However, I would suggest that you continue to boulder some to maintain the power necessary for hard cruxes.

The Self Coached Climber has some good content on building endurance; it might be a good place to start.


doruk


May 24, 2012, 3:01 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2011
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Re: [shockabuku] Boulder>Lead Problem [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:

Good boulderers make good sport climbers but developing endurance takes time. However, I would suggest that you continue to boulder some to maintain the power necessary for hard cruxes.

The Self Coached Climber has some good content on building endurance; it might be a good place to start.

Thanks, man. I'll follow up your advise. Thanks again.


mr.tastycakes


May 24, 2012, 6:55 AM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
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Re: [doruk] Boulder>Lead Problem [In reply to]
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http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...-route-climbing.html

The short answer is to climb more routes.


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