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sungam
May 27, 2012, 9:50 AM
Post #36251 of 43464
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edge wrote: sungam wrote: edge wrote: Sore. Very very sore. Just got back from 7 hours at the gnar sekrit crag. We did a warm up, repeated a climb I put up last fall, then adden a new second pitch. We rapped off a tree to the left that (swear to god) I saw in a dream last night. We each rapped on our own ropes with wire brushes attached to shovel handles. 1 1/2 hours later we had uncovered three stellar 80' trad lines. The first (A Toltec Dream) I led at 5.7. The second is best done in two pitches to avoid rope drag over numerous overlaps. P1 is 10a PG, and I wussed out halfway up P2 which will go at 10+/11- and needs either a pin or perhaps a bolt, neither of which we had with us. (The Path of the Peaceful Warrior, when we return to send.) The third will need a bolt or two and should be a solid 10. We didn't give it a go, but it's all scrubbed and ready for equipping. Did I mention I'm sore? Sounds rad ^.^ Just one problerm... You said tard and bultz in the same root... Any bolt or pin will be placed ground up on the lead, perhaps from a cliffhanger if necessary. Pull ropes, re-lead free, tard.
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Gmburns2000
May 27, 2012, 4:02 PM
Post #36252 of 43464
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as noted in the other super thread that I founded here, made it out again today. didn't do a whole lot, but was rather satisfied just to get out.
lots of promises to climb more often, but it's usually backed with less and less action. still, i'm happy.
except that my one goal for the day was to climb this route that's more in my head than it is above my ability. It's a five-bolt dynamic crimp-fest with a straight traverse finish. the crux is immediately before the fourth bolt (no, you can't clip the bolt before pulling the crux because you're in the crux as soon as you can reach the bolt). After the fourth bolt is one bolt to protect the traverse and you're home free.
except that there's a bees nest above the fifth bolt that some punks wanted to torch to get rid of it. so that led to some other punks pulling the third bolt so that the first group of punks couldn't climb it and torch the nest.
Do the math (and yes, routes here are a little more spaced apart than the sport destinations I've been to in the U.S.)
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sungam
May 28, 2012, 8:41 AM
Post #36255 of 43464
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Looks like Weasley is going to the valley to have a crack at el cap.
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sungam
May 28, 2012, 8:44 AM
Post #36256 of 43464
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Ack I am bored at my parents house. Yesterday I was wondering how I ever thought it sucked up here. Swimming in the river, jumping off the bridge, Shitty DWS in the sun. Good times. Of course today the wind died and clouds came out, so the swarm of midges did too. I want to go back to Edinburrgh now.
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sungam
May 28, 2012, 8:45 AM
Post #36257 of 43464
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ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT!
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Kartessa
May 28, 2012, 3:36 PM
Post #36258 of 43464
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
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sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT!
American slackers have a holiday...
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climbingtrash
May 28, 2012, 4:45 PM
Post #36259 of 43464
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 4618
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edge wrote: Sore. Very very sore. Just got back from 7 hours at the gnar sekrit crag. We did a warm up, repeated a climb I put up last fall, then adden a new second pitch. We rapped off a tree to the left that (swear to god) I saw in a dream last night. We each rapped on our own ropes with wire brushes attached to shovel handles. 1 1/2 hours later we had uncovered three stellar 80' trad lines. The first (A Toltec Dream) I led at 5.7. The second is best done in two pitches to avoid rope drag over numerous overlaps. P1 is 10a PG, and I wussed out halfway up P2 which will go at 10+/11- and needs either a pin or perhaps a bolt, neither of which we had with us. (The Path of the Peaceful Warrior, when we return to send.) The third will need a bolt or two and should be a solid 10. We didn't give it a go, but it's all scrubbed and ready for equipping. Did I mention I'm sore?
Well yore no spring chicken, what do you expect. I'm pretty sore from a 13 mile canyon I did on Saturday. Damn cold swimming didn't help matters any.
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climbingtrash
May 28, 2012, 5:05 PM
Post #36260 of 43464
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Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT! American slackers have a holiday...
she haz a poynte
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SylviaSmile
May 28, 2012, 8:38 PM
Post #36261 of 43464
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Registered: Oct 3, 2011
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notapplicable wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: Well, I just braved driving through a torrential rainstorm to go flail around on boulder problems for a couple of hours. And now I have a toenail predicament . . . Just pull it off. You don't need them. 
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SylviaSmile
May 28, 2012, 8:39 PM
Post #36262 of 43464
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notapplicable wrote: notapplicable wrote: edge wrote: erisspirit wrote: edge wrote: In climbing (gasp!) news, I have tentative plans to get out tonight but afternoon thunderstorms may dampen that venture. On the new/old cliff that we are developing, there was a 5.8 that I did the FA of back in '79. I had rated it 5.7 at the time and don't remember it being too serious, but a flake fell off near the start and the other members of our crew top roped it and found the initial crux moves had a 25 foot groundfall potential so they added a bolt with my blessing, plus a two bolt anchor atop the first pitch. They have held off of leading it so that I might get get the first crack at the FA of the retooled line, for wahteverthehell that is worth... It should now be THE classic low-mid grade trad multipitch on the cliff to compliment all of the 10-12's that are going up. If tonight falls through, then hopefully this weekend. woo climbing! The thunder gods have just spoken; there will be no afternoon climbing today. Saturday is a definite though, a little humid, but any day on the stone beats a day only thinking about it. Is very true. Have fun out there. Unfortunately I'll be trapped inside tending to business and personal paperwork to get ready for the CO trip. Might sneak out to the gym though. WOO!! Just found out that Monday is a holiday, so I get to go climbing after all!
Yay! I thought going to Pensacola would be all the excitement of my weekend, but fortunately I got to go climbing too!!
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SylviaSmile
May 28, 2012, 8:43 PM
Post #36264 of 43464
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sungam wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: erisspirit wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: erisspirit wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: erisspirit wrote: I just bought bedroom furniture like a real adult. I'm not sure I'm ready for such adult decisions!  It suddenly dawned on me that I am an adult when I got some vouchers and instead of buying 20 quids worth of ice cream I am using it to afford a new vacuum cleaner. Aye, that'd be you growin' up there laddie. now go an' fetch me a beer will ya. beer sounds better than working out right now Not for me now it doesn't. Beer here in the summer is a necessity, but during the winter, it simply has little appeal. I had post workout wine... it was pretty fantastic I had post-workout . . . Taco Bell.  Actually, it gets worse: I actually ran to Taco Bell and back. I have no excuse, except I got really hungry and was out of time to both work out and cook dinner. You just became some kind of invincible half titan half goddess in my mind. You ran HOME from taco bell? HOW? How did you not vomit all over everything? A stomach of iron? The digestive system of an angry dragon?
The reality is much less impressive than what you were thinking: I ran to Taco Bell, ordered burritos to go, then ran back with them in hand. Incidentally, it is very awkward to run with a bag of Taco Bell in one hand . . . I got some strange looks.
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SylviaSmile
May 28, 2012, 8:44 PM
Post #36265 of 43464
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sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: YIKES! If the PM I just recieved is any indication, I would say wonderwoman did not get the hook out clean. While Tiff will admit to letting her emotions get the best of her at times, she is a pretty reasonable person. I have a feeling that you may be in for a ride, however. I take it this is in regard to the Advances for women thread. I saw NAs grigri comment, and WW's response. But I take it, it has reached new levels today? I think the grigri comment was the least of it . . . personally I found that one kind of funny. But I guess it got caught in the rapid tailspin the thread took otherwise with one (former?) member taking a few other responses really personally. I assume NA got the PM due to whatever comments he made on the "how do I delete my account" thread made by that person. I'm starting to realize I may have been baiting that hook for awhile now. At least as far back as the "you might be a girl climber" thread with my "girls stink" post. One thing is clear though. I am not funny and neither are my "sexist" jokes!  Do you remember the "Types of girl climbers" that the leech posted 5 or so years ago that just fucking hooked half of the internet to shit? If I recall correctly even Clawsti's cheek was torn to shreds she bit that hook so hard. It was just a hilarious slew of rage (or so my memory tells me).
I couldn't find it in the search! 
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SylviaSmile
May 28, 2012, 8:47 PM
Post #36266 of 43464
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Posts: 979
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Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT! American slackers have a holiday...
And a glorious holiday it was! And a good vacation! And . . . work?
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sungam
May 29, 2012, 1:56 AM
Post #36267 of 43464
(960 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26357
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Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT! American slackers have a holiday...
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sungam
May 29, 2012, 1:57 AM
Post #36268 of 43464
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26357
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SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: erisspirit wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: erisspirit wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: erisspirit wrote: I just bought bedroom furniture like a real adult. I'm not sure I'm ready for such adult decisions! It suddenly dawned on me that I am an adult when I got some vouchers and instead of buying 20 quids worth of ice cream I am using it to afford a new vacuum cleaner. Aye, that'd be you growin' up there laddie. now go an' fetch me a beer will ya. beer sounds better than working out right now Not for me now it doesn't. Beer here in the summer is a necessity, but during the winter, it simply has little appeal. I had post workout wine... it was pretty fantastic I had post-workout . . . Taco Bell. Actually, it gets worse: I actually ran to Taco Bell and back. I have no excuse, except I got really hungry and was out of time to both work out and cook dinner. You just became some kind of invincible half titan half goddess in my mind. You ran HOME from taco bell? HOW? How did you not vomit all over everything? A stomach of iron? The digestive system of an angry dragon? The reality is much less impressive than what you were thinking: I ran to Taco Bell, ordered burritos to go, then ran back with them in hand. Incidentally, it is very awkward to run with a bag of Taco Bell in one hand . . . I got some strange looks.
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sungam
May 29, 2012, 2:07 AM
Post #36269 of 43464
(958 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26357
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SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: YIKES! If the PM I just recieved is any indication, I would say wonderwoman did not get the hook out clean. While Tiff will admit to letting her emotions get the best of her at times, she is a pretty reasonable person. I have a feeling that you may be in for a ride, however. I take it this is in regard to the Advances for women thread. I saw NAs grigri comment, and WW's response. But I take it, it has reached new levels today? I think the grigri comment was the least of it . . . personally I found that one kind of funny. But I guess it got caught in the rapid tailspin the thread took otherwise with one (former?) member taking a few other responses really personally. I assume NA got the PM due to whatever comments he made on the "how do I delete my account" thread made by that person. I'm starting to realize I may have been baiting that hook for awhile now. At least as far back as the "you might be a girl climber" thread with my "girls stink" post. One thing is clear though. I am not funny and neither are my "sexist" jokes! Do you remember the "Types of girl climbers" that the leech posted 5 or so years ago that just fucking hooked half of the internet to shit? If I recall correctly even Clawsti's cheek was torn to shreds she bit that hook so hard. It was just a hilarious slew of rage (or so my memory tells me). I couldn't find it in the search!
Either way, the thread was hilarious:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...reply;so=ASC;mh=100;
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Kartessa
May 29, 2012, 5:16 AM
Post #36270 of 43464
(952 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7240
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sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT! American slackers have a holiday... I want to go slacking but there is a swarm of hungy midges outside awaiting my return.
I went slacklining last night and got eaten Alice by Mosquitos and black flies.
Harden the fuck up
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SylviaSmile
May 29, 2012, 7:34 AM
Post #36271 of 43464
(938 views)
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Registered: Oct 3, 2011
Posts: 979
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sungam wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: YIKES! If the PM I just recieved is any indication, I would say wonderwoman did not get the hook out clean. While Tiff will admit to letting her emotions get the best of her at times, she is a pretty reasonable person. I have a feeling that you may be in for a ride, however. I take it this is in regard to the Advances for women thread. I saw NAs grigri comment, and WW's response. But I take it, it has reached new levels today? I think the grigri comment was the least of it . . . personally I found that one kind of funny. But I guess it got caught in the rapid tailspin the thread took otherwise with one (former?) member taking a few other responses really personally. I assume NA got the PM due to whatever comments he made on the "how do I delete my account" thread made by that person. I'm starting to realize I may have been baiting that hook for awhile now. At least as far back as the "you might be a girl climber" thread with my "girls stink" post. One thing is clear though. I am not funny and neither are my "sexist" jokes! Do you remember the "Types of girl climbers" that the leech posted 5 or so years ago that just fucking hooked half of the internet to shit? If I recall correctly even Clawsti's cheek was torn to shreds she bit that hook so hard. It was just a hilarious slew of rage (or so my memory tells me). I couldn't find it in the search! Well my memory throughly distorted the thread and greatly inflated it's excellence, and somehow added Clausti to it. Maybe I just have a deep connection in my mind that says angry Internet feminist = clausti. Either way, the thread was hilarious: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...reply;so=ASC;mh=100;
Amazing.
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sungam
May 29, 2012, 7:43 AM
Post #36272 of 43464
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT! American slackers have a holiday... I want to go slacking but there is a swarm of hungy midges outside awaiting my return. I went slacklining last night and got eaten Alice by Mosquitos and black flies. Harden the fuck up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgvM7av1o1Q
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SylviaSmile
May 29, 2012, 8:00 AM
Post #36273 of 43464
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Registered: Oct 3, 2011
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sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: ENTERTAIN ME DAMMIT! American slackers have a holiday... I want to go slacking but there is a swarm of hungy midges outside awaiting my return. I went slacklining last night and got eaten Alice by Mosquitos and black flies. Harden the fuck up From the programmers that make EVE Online: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgvM7av1o1Q
That wasn't disturbing at all . . . Ok now for some bluegrass!
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erisspirit
May 29, 2012, 9:02 AM
Post #36274 of 43464
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Registered: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 3619
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everyone have a good weekend?
the BF and I went over kearsarge pass and camped out at Charlotte Lake. It snowed the entire first day with high winds. The weather was great after that, but we didn't expect quite as much snow as there was and mai appraoch shoes were kinda sucking.as a great trip.
We ended up arriving home a little earlier than originally planned which put us in town to have BBQ at a friends house. Now its time to actually move in to the new apartment
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donald949
May 29, 2012, 9:26 AM
Post #36275 of 43464
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 10946
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Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: In the topsy turvy life that is my lot. I went from 1 partner for the long weekend to none. To 1 for a day, to none. To 2 or 3 for the weekend.  Any rate, pack up tonight head out Sat morn. so you're going now? wooo!!! Yes. It is my lot in life to have issues coordinating these types of things. But alas, I have so many other commitments, I get few opportunities to climb. So I really try to push when I get a pass for the long weekend. Aparently the wife was praying for me to make it. Hurry for me, and thanks to her. Here's hoping the mailman doesn't have a special delivery, too. (kidding aside, have fun and report back well: i.e. - we're probably gonna need a plane crash to top the last story)
This weekend up there did not "top" any of my previous adventures.
But it did include getting 10' above the last bolt, looking at the anchor 10' further up, and realizing...
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