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My advice on finger injury prevention:
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metalmonkei


May 22, 2012, 9:17 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2012
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My advice on finger injury prevention:
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Start playing piano.

I started playing piano not too long after I started climbing. I progressed very quickly to the 5.10 and 5.11 level and didn't really seriously start playing piano everyday until I was well into the 5.11s.
Sometimes there'd be some fingernail crimps put in with some of the routes I'd be training on and I noticed that two of the fingers in my left hand were getting sore while all the others felt great. I didn't realize this at first, but before I started playing piano alot all my fingers would be sore after some routes focusing on hard crimps. After I really started playing there was only the two that were still getting sore and this was when I realized the piano was helping my fingers out alot. Those two fingers were still getting sore because for all the songs I was playing I almost never used those two fingers. After this I learned some songs & scales to involve every finger and since then ALL my fingers have always felt good.

This really isn't soo helpful though. If it's not a passion for you then you probably won't stick with it. But if you're sitting at home for three months because of a finger injury, maybe it could help you recover faster +

(This post was edited by metalmonkei on May 22, 2012, 9:27 PM)


onceahardman


May 26, 2012, 5:45 AM
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Re: [metalmonkei] My advice on finger injury prevention: [In reply to]
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I don't hate this.

It's AROM, albeit not generally throughout the entire ROM, and might even condition the fingertips a bit, toughening the skin.

I don't play piano, but I don't see a compelling reason why some might not find it helpful. Thanks for sharing.


metalmonkei


May 29, 2012, 5:16 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] My advice on finger injury prevention: [In reply to]
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On top of that you're using strength from your fingers but for the opposite direction of grasping something. Your fingers and hand require a certain amount of strength to be able to jam out for an hour or two. I couldn't when I first started, my fingers would literally pump out.

I don't think this advice is soo useful though. If the person couldn't learn to play any decent songs for lack of any musical aptitude I'm sure they'd get bored of it within a few days. Or if they couldn't afford at least a few hundred bucks for a decent keyboard (without weighted keys your fingers won't really get any training) then this advice would again be irrelevant.

I was just sharing something I thought was interesting in how it helped me :) My fingers have become much larger over the past few months. Mostly due to the piano playing I bet.


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