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Need suggestions on proper warm up routines.
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CrazyCarl


May 29, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Need suggestions on proper warm up routines.
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Hey, I've been rock climbing and for the past 6 weeks I"ve been experiencing a shooting pain in my forearms when doing difficult crimps. My arms also sometimes start shaking after doing a particularly difficult climb.

I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions on warm up exercises and ways to speed up recovery for my muscles. I've been trying to go rock climbing every other day to give my muscles time to rest.

Any suggestions?


(This post was edited by CrazyCarl on May 30, 2012, 2:17 AM)


shockabuku


May 30, 2012, 3:37 AM
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CrazyCarl wrote:
Hey, I've been rock climbing and for the past 6 weeks I"ve been experiencing a shooting pain in my forearms when doing difficult crimps. My arms also sometimes start shaking after doing a particularly difficult climb.

I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions on warm up exercises and ways to speed up recovery for my muscles. I've been trying to go rock climbing every other day to give my muscles time to rest.

Any suggestions?

Take longer rests if every other day isn't working or, don't climb quite so hard if you want to climb more often.


camhead


May 30, 2012, 5:14 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Need suggestions on proper warm up routines. [In reply to]
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First off, your arms shaking are probably just a combination of lactic acid buildup (getting "pumped," since this is the beginner's forum), and of your body not really being all that used to climbing yet.

For warmups, do really easy, juggy traverses on huge holds. Sometimes, if like me your joints get stiff, do various stretches; I even like just hanging on a jug, and throwing a heel up to stretch out my quads. Dead hangs, again on huge holds, can be nice, too.

For more specificity, a good warmup for your fingers AFTER you've done all the general warmups above is this:
hold your arm out directly in front of you, with your palm facing outward and your fingers out (like a traffic cop signaling "stop!"). Take your other hand, and SLOWLY pull your fingers back toward yourself, kind of putting easy stretch in your tendons and forearms. You can also do this just one finger at a time as well (as shown around 35 seconds into this video), but be really careful not to strain anything.

Since you're a relatively new climber, and I'm assuming you're in the gym, it's a good idea to try NEVER to hold a small hold on a closed-handed crimp (fingers bent, thumb on top). Closed-hand crimps, while good for tiny holds, are more likely to result in injury, and do even less to build tendon strength than open-handed positions.


Finally, for recovery, take lots of rest days as mentioned above. Also, some more advanced climbers that I know will sometimes soak each forearm in a tub of ice water for ten minutes apiece at the end of a hard workout, which increases blood flow to the area, and thus quickens muscle rebuilding. This may be a bit much for a beginner, but I don't think it would hurt you to try it.

I hope that helps.


(This post was edited by camhead on May 30, 2012, 6:41 AM)


sungam


May 30, 2012, 10:36 AM
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Re: [camhead] Need suggestions on proper warm up routines. [In reply to]
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I almost agree with Camhead but I am just gunna put my vote in for dynamic stretching instead of held static stretching (which research has shown doesn't reduce the chance of injury but can indeed increase it*)

So I would just say "limber up" your hands by slowly exploring your range of motion, moving in and out of a stretched position smoothly wwithout aid from the other hand or anything. I kinda do a slow motion exaggerated spirit fingers type thing while rolling my wrists around. Keep it slow, smooth, and controlled.



*Source: Oncehardman told me in another thread and that dude is well legit.


armymedic2162


May 30, 2012, 1:10 PM
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Re: [camhead] Need suggestions on proper warm up routines. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
First off, your arms shaking are probably just a combination of lactic acid buildup (getting "pumped," since this is the beginner's forum), and of your body not really being all that used to climbing yet.

For warmups, do really easy, juggy traverses on huge holds. Sometimes, if like me your joints get stiff, do various stretches; I even like just hanging on a jug, and throwing a heel up to stretch out my quads. Dead hangs, again on huge holds, can be nice, too.

For more specificity, a good warmup for your fingers AFTER you've done all the general warmups above is this:
hold your arm out directly in front of you, with your palm facing outward and your fingers out (like a traffic cop signaling "stop!"). Take your other hand, and SLOWLY pull your fingers back toward yourself, kind of putting easy stretch in your tendons and forearms. You can also do this just one finger at a time as well (as shown around 35 seconds into this video), but be really careful not to strain anything.

Since you're a relatively new climber, and I'm assuming you're in the gym, it's a good idea to try NEVER to hold a small hold on a closed-handed crimp (fingers bent, thumb on top). Closed-hand crimps, while good for tiny holds, are more likely to result in injury, and do even less to build tendon strength than open-handed positions.


Finally, for recovery, take lots of rest days as mentioned above. Also, some more advanced climbers that I know will sometimes soak each forearm in a tub of ice water for ten minutes apiece at the end of a hard workout, which increases blood flow to the area, and thus quickens muscle rebuilding. This may be a bit much for a beginner, but I don't think it would hurt you to try it.

I hope that helps.


While I'm not a doctor I do have a good idea of how the human body works and soaking body parts in ice will not increase blood flow it in fact does the exact opposite it will slow blood flow to that body part. The Ice might make you feel better because it reduces swelling.


camhead


May 30, 2012, 1:17 PM
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Re: [armymedic2162] Need suggestions on proper warm up routines. [In reply to]
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armymedic2162 wrote:
camhead wrote:
First off, your arms shaking are probably just a combination of lactic acid buildup (getting "pumped," since this is the beginner's forum), and of your body not really being all that used to climbing yet.

For warmups, do really easy, juggy traverses on huge holds. Sometimes, if like me your joints get stiff, do various stretches; I even like just hanging on a jug, and throwing a heel up to stretch out my quads. Dead hangs, again on huge holds, can be nice, too.

For more specificity, a good warmup for your fingers AFTER you've done all the general warmups above is this:
hold your arm out directly in front of you, with your palm facing outward and your fingers out (like a traffic cop signaling "stop!"). Take your other hand, and SLOWLY pull your fingers back toward yourself, kind of putting easy stretch in your tendons and forearms. You can also do this just one finger at a time as well (as shown around 35 seconds into this video), but be really careful not to strain anything.

Since you're a relatively new climber, and I'm assuming you're in the gym, it's a good idea to try NEVER to hold a small hold on a closed-handed crimp (fingers bent, thumb on top). Closed-hand crimps, while good for tiny holds, are more likely to result in injury, and do even less to build tendon strength than open-handed positions.


Finally, for recovery, take lots of rest days as mentioned above. Also, some more advanced climbers that I know will sometimes soak each forearm in a tub of ice water for ten minutes apiece at the end of a hard workout, which increases blood flow to the area, and thus quickens muscle rebuilding. This may be a bit much for a beginner, but I don't think it would hurt you to try it.

I hope that helps.


While I'm not a doctor I do have a good idea of how the human body works and soaking body parts in ice will not increase blood flow it in fact does the exact opposite it will slow blood flow to that body part. The Ice might make you feel better because it reduces swelling.

I just need to re-clarify, this is NOT icing your arms with ice packs or anything. I usually use a tray of ice cubes for maybe two gallons of water, so I can't imagine that the water temp gets much below 45-50 degrees or so.

It could be the reduced swelling benefit that helps muscle recovery, though, I dunno.


sungam


May 31, 2012, 4:38 AM
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Re: [armymedic2162] Need suggestions on proper warm up routines. [In reply to]
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armymedic2162 wrote:
While I'm not a doctor I do have a good idea of how the human body works and soaking body parts in ice will not increase blood flow it in fact does the exact opposite it will slow blood flow to that body part. The Ice might make you feel better because it reduces swelling.
While you are correct for short term submersions, assuming the rest of the body is easily able to maintain temperature blood flow to the cold area will indeed increase after prolonged submersion (provided it isn't too cold). It's called the Lewis effect.

From Dave Macleod's "Online Climbing Coach" blog::
"Increasing the blood flow to the area helps to speed healing greatly. Gentle climbing or exercise is an obvious way of achieving this. A little used, but massively effective method of increasing blood flow is ice therapy. If significant cold is applied to the skin, the blood vessels in the nearby area (in this case the hand) constrict to reduce blood flow and prevent cooling of the blood. However, when moderate cold is applied there is an initial reduction in blood flow followed by significant dilation of the blood vessels and subsequent increase in blood flow of up to 500%. This is called the ‘Lewis reaction’. The cycle of blood vessel constriction and dilation takes around 30 minutes and thus the cold application should last this long. Place your injured hand in a pot or small bucket of cold water with a few (roughly 5) ice cubes added. Leave your hand in the water for the length of the treatment. If your hand hasn’t gone pink and feels flushed with blood after ten minutes, the water is too icy. Try to use the ice at least once or twice a day. Don’t use this treatment on a freshly injured finger where there is significant inflammation!"


Edit: To add link http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/...njuries-article.html


(This post was edited by sungam on May 31, 2012, 4:39 AM)


CrazyCarl


May 31, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Re: [camhead] Need suggestions on proper warm up routines. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:

For warmups, do really easy, juggy traverses on huge holds. Sometimes, if like me your joints get stiff, do various stretches; I even like just hanging on a jug, and throwing a heel up to stretch out my quads. Dead hangs, again on huge holds, can be nice, too.

For more specificity, a good warmup for your fingers AFTER you've done all the general warmups above is this:
hold your arm out directly in front of you, with your palm facing outward and your fingers out (like a traffic cop signaling "stop!"). Take your other hand, and SLOWLY pull your fingers back toward yourself, kind of putting easy stretch in your tendons and forearms. You can also do this just one finger at a time as well (as shown around 35 seconds into this video), but be really careful not to strain anything.

Since you're a relatively new climber, and I'm assuming you're in the gym, it's a good idea to try NEVER to hold a small hold on a closed-handed crimp (fingers bent, thumb on top). Closed-hand crimps, while good for tiny holds, are more likely to result in injury, and do even less to build tendon strength than open-handed positions.


Finally, for recovery, take lots of rest days as mentioned above. Also, some more advanced climbers that I know will sometimes soak each forearm in a tub of ice water for ten minutes apiece at the end of a hard workout, which increases blood flow to the area, and thus quickens muscle rebuilding. This may be a bit much for a beginner, but I don't think it would hurt you to try it.

I hope that helps.


Awesome, I'll start incorporating all the advice thanks guys! And the video link was very helpful!


scottek67


Jun 1, 2012, 5:20 PM
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http://www.dudeiwantthat.com/...cliff-hanger-mug.asp


armymedic2162


Jun 3, 2012, 2:40 PM
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Thank you for that post. I did not know about the Lewis effect. I will use this and see how it works. Thank you for teaching me something new


shockabuku


Jun 3, 2012, 7:30 PM
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Tell me if you find out more about it; I've been experimenting for the last two days and haven't figured it out yet. I gotta go in to work and see if I can download a paper, with some more specific data, on it.


josephfazioli


Jun 4, 2012, 11:24 AM
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Shooting pains could be indicative of a more significant problem than muscle pain. Remember that the fingers rely heavily on ligaments and tendons, which are prone to injury in beginner climbers. I saw a guy snap two tendons in his right hands from overuse. 6 weeks isn't a very long time, and those tissues can take a long time to adapt to a new stress.

I tend to use power putty whenever I'm not climbing for a period of time. It keeps my forearms strong, but it also helps me maintain conditioning for the tendons/ligaments. I didn't pick it up until I was several years into climbing, but it might be worth a try for a beginner. Get the soft stuff and use it on days off when watching TV and maybe squeeze a harder chunk on the way to the climb to limber up.

*note: I am not a spokesperson for power putty brand. I just didn't know what else to call it. lol


shockabuku


Jun 6, 2012, 10:00 AM
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I got it to work but I had to start with pretty cold water. I put about 12 ice cubes in a bowl, fill with about 3/4 of a gallon of water, and throw in about 12 more ice cubes. Soak my hands for about a minute (separate bowl each hand), pull them out for a few seconds, put them back in, and repeat for about 5 minutes and it starts. Once it starts I leave them in for longer time periods but occasionally pull them out over the course of a 1/2 hour.

Is it useful? Hard to say. I was having some issues with joint soreness that seem to be alleviated.


plegba


Jul 28, 2012, 10:43 AM
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I'm just getting into climbing, but I'm coming to it from a background that has experience managing a daily ashtanga yoga and jujitsu practice.

A good warm up routine should begin when you first get out of bed. What do you daily to build balance into your body and take apart the muscular tensions that are created by environments and habits-i.e. sitting long periods of time at work, commuting, too much extensive running or strength training. Having a daily practice that opens the body is going to do wonders for not only your climbing practice but also in your ability to adapt to other activities. I can recommend a very good morning qi gong system or combination of yoga asana to develop the total body.

Otherwise, my approach to warm up routines is working the key areas that are going to be worked. Develop finger and grip strength, wrist flexibility. Work some pull ups, find a way to open up the shoulders. Work some squats, and get deep into those hips.


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