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Kartessa
May 30, 2012, 5:54 AM
Post #36326 of 43063
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SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: Having a "hardest fuck up" moment.... Trying to get something unstuck from a biner with a pair of nail scissors and I slipped, stabbing myself in the index finger. Two holes (scissors were open) that haven't stopped bleeding in the last 20min, despite a near-tourniquet-tight bandaid. Scooby Doo looks awesome when he's soaked in blood. It hurts. Bad. Ouch, that really sucks, K. I hope it stops bleeding soon. Also that it stops hurting. Yikes, yeah--did the bleeding ever stop? I sure hope so...
It didn't really stop, but slowed enough to seal it with nail polish
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 6:01 AM
Post #36327 of 43063
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Kartessa wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: Having a "hardest fuck up" moment.... Trying to get something unstuck from a biner with a pair of nail scissors and I slipped, stabbing myself in the index finger. Two holes (scissors were open) that haven't stopped bleeding in the last 20min, despite a near-tourniquet-tight bandaid. Scooby Doo looks awesome when he's soaked in blood. It hurts. Bad. Ouch, that really sucks, K. I hope it stops bleeding soon. Also that it stops hurting. Yikes, yeah--did the bleeding ever stop? I sure hope so... It didn't really stop, but slowed enough to seal it with nail polish
Nail polish??  Do you do that often?
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sungam
May 30, 2012, 6:41 AM
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Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: Having a "hardest fuck up" moment.... Trying to get something unstuck from a biner with a pair of nail scissors and I slipped, stabbing myself in the index finger. Two holes (scissors were open) that haven't stopped bleeding in the last 20min, despite a near-tourniquet-tight bandaid. Scooby Doo looks awesome when he's soaked in blood. It hurts. Bad. Ouch, that really sucks, K. I hope it stops bleeding soon. Also that it stops hurting. Well I survived the night, I may very well pull through
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sungam
May 30, 2012, 6:42 AM
Post #36329 of 43063
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Kartessa wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: Having a "hardest fuck up" moment.... Trying to get something unstuck from a biner with a pair of nail scissors and I slipped, stabbing myself in the index finger. Two holes (scissors were open) that haven't stopped bleeding in the last 20min, despite a near-tourniquet-tight bandaid. Scooby Doo looks awesome when he's soaked in blood. It hurts. Bad. Ouch, that really sucks, K. I hope it stops bleeding soon. Also that it stops hurting. Yikes, yeah--did the bleeding ever stop? I sure hope so... It didn't really stop, but slowed enough to seal it with nail polish
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 7:14 AM
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It seems a bit unnatural.
*applies tea tree oil to her many bug bites*
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 7:15 AM
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Speaking of which, on that "why women climb" thing, I decided I'm definitely the hippie. I don't have dreadlocks and don't smoke weed, but other than that, it totally fits. 
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erisspirit
May 30, 2012, 8:54 AM
Post #36332 of 43063
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sungam wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit!  I don't have a camera. 
I have a camera, but suffer from putting the pictures on the computer and never looking at them again syndrome
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notapplicable
May 30, 2012, 9:36 AM
Post #36334 of 43063
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My power endurance is terrible!
That is all.
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donald949
May 30, 2012, 9:45 AM
Post #36335 of 43063
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Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: donald949 wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: In the topsy turvy life that is my lot. I went from 1 partner for the long weekend to none. To 1 for a day, to none. To 2 or 3 for the weekend.  Any rate, pack up tonight head out Sat morn.  so you're going now? wooo!!! Yes. It is my lot in life to have issues coordinating these types of things. But alas, I have so many other commitments, I get few opportunities to climb. So I really try to push when I get a pass for the long weekend. Aparently the wife was praying for me to make it. Hurry for me, and thanks to her. Here's hoping the mailman doesn't have a special delivery, too. (kidding aside, have fun and report back well: i.e. - we're probably gonna need a plane crash to top the last story) Weekend went well. This weekend up there did not "top" any of my previous adventures. But it did include getting 10' above the last bolt, looking at the anchor 10' further up, and realizing... THERES NO HNAGERS ON THE ANCHOR BOLTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! That is not how I expected that sstory to turn out! That sucks! How'd you get doon? Pic from the projects:  Other than the ratings are way under, the left root was missing the bottom hanger. The right only has two, but the top is way easy. I get up past the second and see no hangers on the anchor. I'm standing there for 5 minutes, just dumb founded. I down climb off to think. Given the left route is already missing a hanger I decide to relocate 2 more to the anchor. At least that way the one can be lead and the other TR'd. After thinking about it overnight, I grab the needed hardware in town, no small task in itself, and replace all the missing hardware. good on you for allowing my minions to steal more hangers so they can be melted down for money on the black market replacing the hangers. that would piss me off. I wonder what the story is
Like I said, the threads on the intact bolts were in perfect condition. WHen I cranked the nuts on the hangers, I could torque my racket nice and hard. The Mussy Hooks themselves go for $8. So the two hangers, quick links, and Mussy Hooks for an anchor is about $35.
The climbs themselves are not highly regarded. Only about 30 feet. Left one is really more like 5.6 than 5.5 with 5 bolts. The right is 5.5, rather than 5.2, but thats only the first 10 feet. after which it drops to 5.2 and to 5.0. Only has 2 bolts, and if you fall from the top your going to deck, but the rock is solid and you'd have to not pay attention to fall.
In any case they are popular for kids and newbees. As I was doing this weekend.
The couple I was taking out billed themselves as cavers, but he turned out to have some climbing experience from years ago. And he was quite solid on belay, with a figure 8 no less.  The young lady was quite excited about making it up the whole 30 feet to the top. She later climbed a longer and harder route around the corner.
There is a bit of a debate on the taco over these missing hangers. Some wanker from out east going on about how these POS climbs are not worth the gear, and maybe a local took the hangers off cause they first climbed the route as a boulder problem. Except its all rapant speculation. The person that put these route was the long time local, who's moved on for personal reasons. He had put them up for kids and newbees. He was that kind of guy.
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donald949
May 30, 2012, 9:49 AM
Post #36336 of 43063
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Kartessa wrote: sungam wrote: Kartessa wrote: Having a "hardest fuck up" moment.... Trying to get something unstuck from a biner with a pair of nail scissors and I slipped, stabbing myself in the index finger. Two holes (scissors were open) that haven't stopped bleeding in the last 20min, despite a near-tourniquet-tight bandaid. Scooby Doo looks awesome when he's soaked in blood. It hurts. Bad. Ouch, that really sucks, K. I hope it stops bleeding soon. Also that it stops hurting. Well I survived the night, I may very well pull through
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sungam
May 30, 2012, 9:59 AM
Post #36338 of 43063
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notapplicable wrote: My power endurance is terrible! That is all.
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 10:31 AM
Post #36339 of 43063
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notapplicable wrote: My power endurance is terrible! That is all.
From Monday? Or just in general?
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 10:33 AM
Post #36340 of 43063
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donald949 wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit! Several reasons. Don't climb that much. Don't remember to carry the camera when climbing. Hard to take the picture when leading or belaying. I can't see pictures imbeded from FB or PB at work. Sorry.
I am happy with a good belay and missed photo op, rather than vice versa!
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 10:35 AM
Post #36341 of 43063
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erisspirit wrote: sungam wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit! I don't have a camera. I have a camera, but suffer from putting the pictures on the computer and never looking at them again syndrome
I usually do that too. In fact, I might have indefinitely procrastinated putting the pictures anywhere accessible to the public had edge not said anything . . .
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #36342 of 43063
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sungam wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: Speaking of which, on that "why women climb" thing, I decided I'm definitely the hippie. I don't have dreadlocks and don't smoke weed, but other than that, it totally fits. DIRTY FUKKIN HIPPIEZ.
Am not! Tea tree oil is a natural antiseptic, very clean . . .
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sungam
May 30, 2012, 10:40 AM
Post #36343 of 43063
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SylviaSmile wrote: sungam wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: Speaking of which, on that "why women climb" thing, I decided I'm definitely the hippie. I don't have dreadlocks and don't smoke weed, but other than that, it totally fits. DIRTY FUKKIN HIPPIEZ. Am not! Tea tree oil is a natural antiseptic, very clean . . .
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edge
May 30, 2012, 10:44 AM
Post #36344 of 43063
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SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit! Several reasons. Don't climb that much. Don't remember to carry the camera when climbing. Hard to take the picture when leading or belaying. I can't see pictures imbeded from FB or PB at work. Sorry. I am happy with a good belay and missed photo op, rather than vice versa!
I often lead and belay with a camera, and take a ton of pics. It's all about having a strap around your neck, keeping the hand on the brake or the rock, knowing how to operate the camera with either hand (one at a time!!!), and knowing when to drop it onto it's strap.
For years I climbed with a full size fully manual SLR, and have a humongous collection of once in a lifetime shots that I never would have now if I didn't endeavor to learn these skills. It's not for everyone, though.
And sungam, buy a damn camera already. Decent ones don't cost much.
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sungam
May 30, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Just teasing, btw.
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sungam
May 30, 2012, 10:46 AM
Post #36346 of 43063
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edge wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit! Several reasons. Don't climb that much. Don't remember to carry the camera when climbing. Hard to take the picture when leading or belaying. I can't see pictures imbeded from FB or PB at work. Sorry. I am happy with a good belay and missed photo op, rather than vice versa! I often lead and belay with a camera, and take a ton of pics. It's all about having a strap around your neck, keeping the hand on the brake or the rock, knowing how to operate the camera with either hand (one at a time!!!), and knowing when to drop it onto it's strap. For years I climbed with a full size fully manual SLR, and have a humongous collection of once in a lifetime shots that I never would have now if I didn't endeavor to learn these skills. It's not for everyone, though. And sungam, buy a damn camera already. Decent ones don't cost much.
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SylviaSmile
May 30, 2012, 12:10 PM
Post #36347 of 43063
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Something real just happened!
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erisspirit
May 30, 2012, 1:34 PM
Post #36348 of 43063
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I've been in meetings all day :( super exciting
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Gmburns2000
May 30, 2012, 2:07 PM
Post #36349 of 43063
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SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit! Several reasons. Don't climb that much. Don't remember to carry the camera when climbing. Hard to take the picture when leading or belaying. I can't see pictures imbeded from FB or PB at work. Sorry. I am happy with a good belay and missed photo op, rather than vice versa!
ah, but the latter will make you famous. you want to be famous don't you?
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donald949
May 30, 2012, 3:35 PM
Post #36350 of 43063
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sungam wrote: edge wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: donald949 wrote: edge wrote: Question for the SPCIers: How come so few pics on this thread? Don't any of you besides Laz and I carry cameras on your exploits? I want pictures, dammit! Several reasons. Don't climb that much. Don't remember to carry the camera when climbing. Hard to take the picture when leading or belaying. I can't see pictures imbeded from FB or PB at work. Sorry. I am happy with a good belay and missed photo op, rather than vice versa! I often lead and belay with a camera, and take a ton of pics. It's all about having a strap around your neck, keeping the hand on the brake or the rock, knowing how to operate the camera with either hand (one at a time!!!), and knowing when to drop it onto it's strap. For years I climbed with a full size fully manual SLR, and have a humongous collection of once in a lifetime shots that I never would have now if I didn't endeavor to learn these skills. It's not for everyone, though. And sungam, buy a damn camera already. Decent ones don't cost much. I intend to buy a film one. I have been waiting to save up for a nice DSLR but it's never going to happen. Getting a film SLR on ebay or some shit.
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