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Rope for leading sharp granite?
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UpToTheOzone


Jun 9, 2012, 6:06 PM
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Rope for leading sharp granite?
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My current rope is getting absolutely destroyed running across sharp granite! I mostly climb sport but am looking at finally getting a trad rack and climbing the classic 5.9's and 5.10's on gear. Is there anything specific I should be looking for to get a long life out of a rope?

Number of lead falls isn't too important to me because I'll be climbing with this rope within my limit. I found a 10mm rope, not sure who makes it that is priced very nicely, how long can I expect to get out of this rope climbing 2-3 days a week leading on this type of rock? I almost always rap down after a climb that isn't overhanging, but my partners aren't ready to lead most of the climbs we do and toproping seems to wear ropes the most in this environment


edge


Jun 9, 2012, 7:16 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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I think it has less to do with the rope than how you treat it. I have a Sterling Evolution 9.8 that looks practically new in its second year used almost exclusively on granite.

Use long runners to reduce it running over edges on lead, pay particular attention to extending your top anchors on TR over the edge, and pad when necessary.


trenchdigger


Jun 9, 2012, 7:20 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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What really destroys a rope fast is top-roping and lowering off of routes without adequately extending the anchor. Be aware of where your anchor's master point is and make sure it's out beyond any edges that will beat up the rope.

Generally, the thicker the rope, the more durable the rope. Certain brands and models also tend to last a little longer than others, but rope diameter is generally a more significant factor.


UpToTheOzone


Jun 9, 2012, 7:33 PM
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Re: [edge] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Use long runners to reduce it running over edges on lead, pay particular attention to extending your top anchors on TR over the edge, and pad when necessary.


What do you usually use to pad the rope? I've definitely been looking for a good solution other than my pack. I also currently use a tarp over a rope bag, would you folks strongly recommend a rope bag so I can just keep the rope flaked instead of coil it after use? I like the tarp because It's twice as big as most rope bags so I can keep the rope cleaner at my belayer's feet.


USnavy


Jun 9, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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Well if you are looking for a rope that can withstand abuse and sharp rock, the answer is pretty easy, get a 11mm rope with a high proportion of sheath specification. However, leading on 11mm thoroughly sucks ass, it's very heavy.

But as others have said, how you treat your rope is very important. If you are careless, you will rip any rope apart really quick.


USnavy


Jun 9, 2012, 10:11 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:

Number of lead falls isn't too important to me because I'll be climbing with this rope within my limit.
Actually, the number of UIAA falls withstand specification is not important for an entirely different reason. That specification is not relevant in the way you think it is. The UIAA fall rating holds no direct relevancy to how many [realistic] lead falls you can take on a rope. There are no practical limits on how many falls you can take on a rope in the real world. You will desheath the rope from extreme wear before you will ever get the rope to fail simply from taking too many falls on it. I used to have a rope that had arrested over 500 lead falls. When I retired the rope it was still functional. But, I trashed it because the once 10.5mm rope had turned into something more like 14mm.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jun 9, 2012, 10:15 PM)


vinnie83


Jun 10, 2012, 12:31 AM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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If you're looking for stuff to pad the edge when top roping there is a lot of really nice stuff marketed to the rescue community for this purpose. That being said, when I'm climbing for fun it is usually easier and more practical to just use longer slings/cord and extend the anchor over the edge.


trenchdigger


Jun 10, 2012, 5:43 PM
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Re: [vinnie83] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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vinnie83 wrote:
If you're looking for stuff to pad the edge when top roping there is a lot of really nice stuff marketed to the rescue community for this purpose. That being said, when I'm climbing for fun it is usually easier and more practical to just use longer slings/cord and extend the anchor over the edge.
This kind of padding is (for the most part) not built for moving ropes. The stuff that is, isn't really something you'd want to bring rock climbing. The solution is much simpler than padding. You really shouldn't need any padding. As I said the first time, you should have the master point of your anchor beyond any sharp, rope abrading edges so the climbing rope touches as little rock as possible. Not doing that has to be one of the most common n00b mistakes I see at the crag.


redlude97


Jun 10, 2012, 6:23 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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mammut supersafe is one of the burliest ropes I've used


billcoe_


Jun 11, 2012, 9:55 AM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
My current rope is getting absolutely destroyed running across sharp granite! I mostly climb sport but am looking at finally getting a trad rack and climbing the classic 5.9's and 5.10's on gear. Is there anything specific I should be looking for to get a long life out of a rope?

Number of lead falls isn't too important to me because I'll be climbing with this rope within my limit. I found a 10mm rope, not sure who makes it that is priced very nicely, how long can I expect to get out of this rope climbing 2-3 days a week leading on this type of rock? I almost always rap down after a climb that isn't overhanging, but my partners aren't ready to lead most of the climbs we do and toproping seems to wear ropes the most in this environment

What rope are you using now? Petzl had an issue with the Red Zephers quickly delaminating and falling apart in a few weeks time of casual climbing. You can do a search here. Interestingly, the blue ones didn't have this issue. They basically pissed on the customers with issues. Petzl sucks.


splish


Jul 21, 2012, 6:37 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
edge wrote:
Use long runners to reduce it running over edges on lead, pay particular attention to extending your top anchors on TR over the edge, and pad when necessary.


What do you usually use to pad the rope? I've definitely been looking for a good solution other than my pack. I also currently use a tarp over a rope bag, would you folks strongly recommend a rope bag so I can just keep the rope flaked instead of coil it after use? I like the tarp because It's twice as big as most rope bags so I can keep the rope cleaner at my belayer's feet.
Metolius males a beautiful rope bag with a tarp built in. Flake the rope onto the large tarp and roll it up right into the bag. Next climb, roll it out, and it's already flaked. I have one for each of my 3 ropes, and I will never go back to any other storage method.


splish


Jul 22, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Rope for leading sharp granite? [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
What do you usually use to pad the rope? I've definitely been looking for a good solution other than my pack. I also currently use a tarp over a rope bag, would you folks strongly recommend a rope bag so I can just keep the rope flaked instead of coil it after use? I like the tarp because It's twice as big as most rope bags so I can keep the rope cleaner at my belayer's feet.

And for rope padding, I am lucky, as I work with firefighters, I have access to old firehoses. I cut them into 5 foot lenghts, sliced them up the middle and sew on some velcro, and add a grommet. I use the velcro to fastin around the rope, and I use the grommet for a prusik, the prusik holds it in place on the rope so it doesn't slide down.
If you go to your local firehall and ask, they will probably save you a piece of old hose. It's indestructable!


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