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ObviousTroll


Jun 13, 2012, 8:46 AM
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What would you do?
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So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? Rope? Webbing? Cord? Any Devices?

Now rope would be the best bet right? But would acc. cord (or webbing :/) be unacceptable? Is static line from a fall like that more than you would risk?

I already know what I'd do, I would just like to know what I'd see from everyone els. Maybe a couple more ideas would come up.


shockabuku


Jun 13, 2012, 8:57 AM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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I would say:

Dynamic rope is the only safe bet and it could be better or worse depending on how you do it.

Either remain on belay and/or give yourself some slack in the rope. If the rope is just long enough to work you are at approximately FF2; slack will decrease the fall factor though extend your potential fall length.


dagibbs


Jun 13, 2012, 9:00 AM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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Assuming this is to sit and admire the view, eat a snack, take pictures, or whatever -- I'd use (climbing, that is dynamic) rope. Anything static or static-ish is a bad bad idea.

DMM drop tests showing why: http://blip.tv/...n-drop-tests-4509845

If for purposes of belaying a second up, I'd make sure I was below the anchor -- hanging belay if neccesary.


(This post was edited by dagibbs on Jun 13, 2012, 9:03 AM)


wivanoff


Jun 13, 2012, 9:57 AM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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I've actually done this (except no bolted chains)

Sat on top of the pillar. Tossed a rope end off the opposite side of the pillar. Had my second anchor that rope end to a tree on the ground. Belayed him up the first side. We both rapped down the first side. Untied the bottom anchor and pulled the rope back over the pillar.


ObviousTroll


Jun 13, 2012, 4:04 PM
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dagibbs wrote:
Assuming this is to sit and admire the view, eat a snack, take pictures, or whatever -- I'd use (climbing, that is dynamic) rope. Anything static or static-ish is a bad bad idea.

DMM drop tests showing why: http://blip.tv/...n-drop-tests-4509845

If for purposes of belaying a second up, I'd make sure I was below the anchor -- hanging belay if neccesary.

Those test results are absolutely astounding. I knew static equipment was dangerous to fall on, sure. But this is basically saying "wake up."


Partner cracklover


Jun 14, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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ObviousTroll wrote:
So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? Rope? Webbing? Cord? Any Devices?

Now rope would be the best bet right? But would acc. cord (or webbing :/) be unacceptable? Is static line from a fall like that more than you would risk?

I already know what I'd do, I would just like to know what I'd see from everyone els. Maybe a couple more ideas would come up.

Clip a draw into each bolt, clip my rope into the draws, say "Take" and "lower".

That one was easy.

GO


ObviousTroll


Jun 14, 2012, 10:03 AM
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Re: [cracklover] What would you do? [In reply to]
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I dunno if you mean you just wouldn't risk it, or if you missunderstood what I meant. Hopefully you weren't just trying to troll me. As that is now my job here on this forum. Unimpressed


majid_sabet


Jun 14, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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ObviousTroll wrote:
So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? Rope? Webbing? Cord? Any Devices?

Now rope would be the best bet right? But would acc. cord (or webbing :/) be unacceptable? Is static line from a fall like that more than you would risk?

I already know what I'd do, I would just like to know what I'd see from everyone els. Maybe a couple more ideas would come up.

with your low climbing mileage, you may want to look in to purcell prusic setup as your ultimate hookup in to any anchor


jt512


Jun 14, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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ObviousTroll wrote:
So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top?

I wouldn't. It's a sport route. I'd lower.


Partner cracklover


Jun 14, 2012, 2:06 PM
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Re: [jt512] What would you do? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
ObviousTroll wrote:
So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top?

I wouldn't. It's a sport route. I'd lower.

Hey Jay, you've got GU on yer face.

GSly


Partner cracklover


Jun 14, 2012, 2:07 PM
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Re: [ObviousTroll] What would you do? [In reply to]
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ObviousTroll wrote:
I dunno if you mean you just wouldn't risk it, or if you missunderstood what I meant. Hopefully you weren't just trying to troll me. As that is now my job here on this forum. Unimpressed

Neither. I didn't misunderstand you, and I don't see any risk involved. Like Jay agreed with me - it's a sport route. Take and lower.

GO


jt512


Jun 14, 2012, 2:21 PM
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Re: [cracklover] What would you do? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
ObviousTroll wrote:
So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top?

I wouldn't. It's a sport route. I'd lower.

Hey Jay, you've got GU on yer face.

GSly

I was reinforcing your message. ;)


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