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Need some encouragement/anecdotes please!
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Laney


Jun 13, 2012, 2:50 PM
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Need some encouragement/anecdotes please!
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I recently decided to follow a training plan to try to improve at climbing. Up until this, Ive spent all of my time at the gym or outside projecting routes just within my reach (or sometimes just out of my reach). I have had worlds of fun climbing this way and have slowly and steadily improved over the last two years. But there is a constant nagging voice in my head to find out what exactly I can do at my very best. So I read a book and lots of online garble and put together a training plan. It consists of a long period of endurance training (laps and traversing) followed by a period of strength training (pull-ups and hangboard drills) and then a period of power training (campus board and dynos). Im nearly through the endurance training and for some reason in a deep panic that I am actually regressing. For fun, I tried some hard routes at the bouldering gym yesterday and performed miserably. Perhaps it was an off day. Perhaps I was still recovering from three sets of thirty minutes non-stop on the wall Sunday (ouch, that was hard!). Perhaps I was putting too much pressure on myself to show results too soon. But I am worried that the part of my brain that was deeply engaged in climbing when I just climbed for fun has turned off. On a positive note, I did notice that all of the traversing and laps had taught me to stay relaxed throughout a sequence and to stay tuned into unnecessary body tension. Anyways, Im just looking for a little encouragement success stories from following a training plan or whatever. Id love to hear about it if you also doubted the plan or yourself at times, but came out the other side with a different perspective. Or even if you found a way to shut up the nagging voice in your head that wants you to improve and instead climbed just for fun. Thanks!


Scourge


Jun 13, 2012, 3:11 PM
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Re: [Laney] Need some encouragement/anecdotes please! [In reply to]
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sometimes taking some time off can be a great way to break through a plateau. take a break, do another type of activity for a week or two, then go back to training.


SylviaSmile


Jun 13, 2012, 5:06 PM
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Re: [Laney] Need some encouragement/anecdotes please! [In reply to]
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Laney wrote:
I recently decided to follow a training plan to try to improve at climbing. Up until this, Ive spent all of my time at the gym or outside projecting routes just within my reach (or sometimes just out of my reach). I have had worlds of fun climbing this way and have slowly and steadily improved over the last two years. But there is a constant nagging voice in my head to find out what exactly I can do at my very best. So I read a book and lots of online garble and put together a training plan. It consists of a long period of endurance training (laps and traversing) followed by a period of strength training (pull-ups and hangboard drills) and then a period of power training (campus board and dynos). Im nearly through the endurance training and for some reason in a deep panic that I am actually regressing. For fun, I tried some hard routes at the bouldering gym yesterday and performed miserably. Perhaps it was an off day. Perhaps I was still recovering from three sets of thirty minutes non-stop on the wall Sunday (ouch, that was hard!). Perhaps I was putting too much pressure on myself to show results too soon. But I am worried that the part of my brain that was deeply engaged in climbing when I just climbed for fun has turned off. On a positive note, I did notice that all of the traversing and laps had taught me to stay relaxed throughout a sequence and to stay tuned into unnecessary body tension. Anyways, Im just looking for a little encouragement success stories from following a training plan or whatever. Id love to hear about it if you also doubted the plan or yourself at times, but came out the other side with a different perspective. Or even if you found a way to shut up the nagging voice in your head that wants you to improve and instead climbed just for fun. Thanks!

I don't know much about any of this firsthand, but one of the climbing blogs I read is all about following a training plan, and your post obliquely reminded me of one of her recent posts about "what used to be fun". Anyway, I recommend you check the blog out for some inspiration in general--she is super strong! Smile


Laney


Jun 14, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Re: [SylviaSmile] Need some encouragement/anecdotes please! [In reply to]
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Thanks! I like her blog.


njrox


Jun 14, 2012, 10:35 AM
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well you get a pat on the back from me for putting together a training program and actually following through.

take a break, hit the reset button. go to the gym/rock and take your time warming up on the easy stuff. wait a session or two before you hit it hard.

I'm sure that your hardwork has paid off. You probably just need a break and a chance to focus.


ceebo


Jun 15, 2012, 5:32 AM
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Re: [Laney] Need some encouragement/anecdotes please! [In reply to]
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Laney wrote:
I recently decided to follow a training plan to try to improve at climbing. Up until this, Ive spent all of my time at the gym or outside projecting routes just within my reach (or sometimes just out of my reach). I have had worlds of fun climbing this way and have slowly and steadily improved over the last two years. But there is a constant nagging voice in my head to find out what exactly I can do at my very best. So I read a book and lots of online garble and put together a training plan. It consists of a long period of endurance training (laps and traversing) followed by a period of strength training (pull-ups and hangboard drills) and then a period of power training (campus board and dynos). Im nearly through the endurance training and for some reason in a deep panic that I am actually regressing. For fun, I tried some hard routes at the bouldering gym yesterday and performed miserably. Perhaps it was an off day. Perhaps I was still recovering from three sets of thirty minutes non-stop on the wall Sunday (ouch, that was hard!). Perhaps I was putting too much pressure on myself to show results too soon. But I am worried that the part of my brain that was deeply engaged in climbing when I just climbed for fun has turned off. On a positive note, I did notice that all of the traversing and laps had taught me to stay relaxed throughout a sequence and to stay tuned into unnecessary body tension. Anyways, Im just looking for a little encouragement success stories from following a training plan or whatever. Id love to hear about it if you also doubted the plan or yourself at times, but came out the other side with a different perspective. Or even if you found a way to shut up the nagging voice in your head that wants you to improve and instead climbed just for fun. Thanks!

I recently started going through a similar phase. Climbing alone alot, not getting out door much.. realy hammers down motivation. I have been doing 3 week phases of strength > endurance. It's getting far to repetitave and i find im making excuses (like slight finger pains the MUST require another day off!) to miss a session or 2 a week. I enjoy projecting alot as do you. The answer seems obvious ;p. Maybe a month or 2 of some hard climbing is in order. Don't think the cmapus board is going anywhere soon.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 15, 2012, 5:34 AM)


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