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ObviousTroll
Jun 13, 2012, 8:46 AM
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So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? Rope? Webbing? Cord? Any Devices?
Now rope would be the best bet right? But would acc. cord (or webbing :/) be unacceptable? Is static line from a fall like that more than you would risk?
I already know what I'd do, I would just like to know what I'd see from everyone els. Maybe a couple more ideas would come up.
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shockabuku
Jun 13, 2012, 8:57 AM
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I would say:
Dynamic rope is the only safe bet and it could be better or worse depending on how you do it.
Either remain on belay and/or give yourself some slack in the rope. If the rope is just long enough to work you are at approximately FF2; slack will decrease the fall factor though extend your potential fall length.
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dagibbs
Jun 13, 2012, 9:00 AM
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Assuming this is to sit and admire the view, eat a snack, take pictures, or whatever -- I'd use (climbing, that is dynamic) rope. Anything static or static-ish is a bad bad idea.
DMM drop tests showing why: http://blip.tv/...n-drop-tests-4509845
If for purposes of belaying a second up, I'd make sure I was below the anchor -- hanging belay if neccesary.
(This post was edited by dagibbs on Jun 13, 2012, 9:03 AM)
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wivanoff
Jun 13, 2012, 9:57 AM
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I've actually done this (except no bolted chains)
Sat on top of the pillar. Tossed a rope end off the opposite side of the pillar. Had my second anchor that rope end to a tree on the ground. Belayed him up the first side. We both rapped down the first side. Untied the bottom anchor and pulled the rope back over the pillar.
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ObviousTroll
Jun 13, 2012, 4:04 PM
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dagibbs wrote: Assuming this is to sit and admire the view, eat a snack, take pictures, or whatever -- I'd use (climbing, that is dynamic) rope. Anything static or static-ish is a bad bad idea. DMM drop tests showing why: http://blip.tv/...n-drop-tests-4509845 If for purposes of belaying a second up, I'd make sure I was below the anchor -- hanging belay if neccesary.
Those test results are absolutely astounding. I knew static equipment was dangerous to fall on, sure. But this is basically saying "wake up."
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cracklover
Jun 14, 2012, 8:36 AM
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ObviousTroll wrote: So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? Rope? Webbing? Cord? Any Devices? Now rope would be the best bet right? But would acc. cord (or webbing :/) be unacceptable? Is static line from a fall like that more than you would risk? I already know what I'd do, I would just like to know what I'd see from everyone els. Maybe a couple more ideas would come up.
Clip a draw into each bolt, clip my rope into the draws, say "Take" and "lower".
That one was easy.
GO
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ObviousTroll
Jun 14, 2012, 10:03 AM
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I dunno if you mean you just wouldn't risk it, or if you missunderstood what I meant. Hopefully you weren't just trying to troll me. As that is now my job here on this forum. 
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majid_sabet
Jun 14, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2002
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ObviousTroll wrote: So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? Rope? Webbing? Cord? Any Devices? Now rope would be the best bet right? But would acc. cord (or webbing :/) be unacceptable? Is static line from a fall like that more than you would risk? I already know what I'd do, I would just like to know what I'd see from everyone els. Maybe a couple more ideas would come up.
with your low climbing mileage, you may want to look in to purcell prusic setup as your ultimate hookup in to any anchor
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jt512
Jun 14, 2012, 12:45 PM
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ObviousTroll wrote: So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top?
I wouldn't. It's a sport route. I'd lower.
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cracklover
Jun 14, 2012, 2:06 PM
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jt512 wrote: ObviousTroll wrote: So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? I wouldn't. It's a sport route. I'd lower.
Hey Jay, you've got GU on yer face.
G
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jt512
Jun 14, 2012, 2:21 PM
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cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: ObviousTroll wrote: So you reach the top of a little pillar, say 50 feet. It's got two bolted chains, and a substantial ledge, but the ledge is above the bolts by 3 feet. How would you secure yourself to the anchor while sitting on top? I wouldn't. It's a sport route. I'd lower. Hey Jay, you've got GU on yer face. G
I was reinforcing your message. ;)
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