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How to not get weak.
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Rufsen


Jun 17, 2012, 1:17 AM
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How to not get weak.
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So I had a great start to this season. Bouldering a problem that was possibly the hardest I have ever done. Right now im going to focus on sport and trad just because there is more possibilities, new boulders will involve either finding new stuff or investing a lot of time in the harder projects. But I donít think sport will be enough to maintain my strength as my bouldering grade is far above my sport level.

But, I really donít want to lose my strength over the summer. Maintaining the level im at right now means a lot of cool possibilities for roadtrips in the fall. Possible options for staying strong I have considered: Work on harder bouldering projects, or repeat stuff I have done before. Fingerboard or campus in case of rain. I can probably get outside five days a week, and have access to good indoor training right next to work in case of bad weather. But I have no idea how hard or how often I should train when the goal is just maintaining strength.

3 days of roped climbing and 1-2 days of bouldering possibly?


crackmeup


Jun 17, 2012, 1:25 PM
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Re: [Rufsen] How to not get weak. [In reply to]
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I remember reading years ago that endurance comes and goes much faster than strength. That's why people make quick progress through the grades on long, pumpy routes while staying at the same bouldering grade for a long time.

Personally, I don't get weaker as long as I do a couple of hour-long sessions of bouldering at my max every week.


flesh


Jun 17, 2012, 4:36 PM
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Re: [Rufsen] How to not get weak. [In reply to]
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Figure out what works for you. For me, One boulder/campus day/week = power maintenance. Assuming you take at least one day off before you power day.

It helps to have a power benchmark, this way you'll know, and won't have to be afraid of regressing.

It could be a couple boulder problems outside or being able to complete a certain campus workout. Indoor problems don't work because they change over months ofc.

IMO, if your goal is to become a better route climber, you should still average 1.5 power days per week minimum.


rhythm164


Jun 17, 2012, 5:03 PM
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Re: [Rufsen] How to not get weak. [In reply to]
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It's going to depend on a lot of different factors. Getting outside five days a week is probably a bad idea from not only an injury prevention standpoint, but it's during your rest periods, the times when the muscle you've broken down on a training day, is rebuilding that you're getting stronger. Personally, I dont consider climbing outside training. Training is what I do so I can climb hard outdoors. If you're looking to train endurance for routes, 4X4s in the gym is a good way yo achieve this. If you're looking to train power for bouldering, employ the campus board. Frequency and intensity of any campus workouts should be dictated by your level of fitness and how long you've been climbing. I regularly see people on the campus board at the gym that have no business using it, they inevitably, and almost invariably, end up injured. In my opinion, if you haven't been climbing at least 3 years, and can't send, at a bare minimum, V5 in fairly short order (1-3 tries); you shouldn't be campusing. And if you do campus, it's wise to limit it to 2 sessions per week, with 48-72 hours rest between each. This is more than enough, if you're employing a well structured campus workout, to see gains in power and stave off campus-related injury (tendon issues, elbow problems). Quality over quantity. If you're looking simply to maintain your current level, low-medium intensity campus workouts and/or low-medium intensity repeaters on a hangboard will likely help you do this. again: intensity, frequency, and duration should be based on your own personal level of fitness.


Rufsen


Jun 18, 2012, 6:09 AM
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I'll try once a week and see how i feel. Probably fingerboarding og bouldering outside, it's too boring to boulder indoors during summer anyways.

The goal isnt really to improve much as a route climber. Just a slight improvement in endurance and i have tons of cool routes that should be possible.

Long term plan would look something like this:
June-july. Dont get weak, do lost of fun sport and trad.
August-September. Gradually more bouldering.
October or November. Go to font and send classic 7C boulders.


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