|
shimanilami
Jun 22, 2012, 11:13 PM
Post #26 of 37
(2332 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
Rock climbing has an interesting way of exposing the ego, whether by grade-obsession, fear of falling, or any of its many other forms. If you are interested, check out Arno Ilgner's Rock Warrior's Way. It is a wonderful discussion of the effect of ego on climbing, and vice versa. I can't promise that it will enable you to climb 5.14, but it will allow you to gain the highest level of fulfillment you can from the sport, no matter what grade you're climbing.
(This post was edited by shimanilami on Jun 22, 2012, 11:15 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Jun 22, 2012, 11:21 PM
Post #27 of 37
(2328 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
Jay --- Upon reflection, in the brighter, less wine-landen light of day it seems to me my response to your post was more than a bit over the top given what you wrote. It was driven more by your history than the specific comment. And as much as it galls me to do it, Jay please accept my apology for a pretty nasty post. --- Bill
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Jun 23, 2012, 12:05 AM
Post #28 of 37
(2316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
No you are not the only one some people are born climbers, some like to climb but they body ratios are not ment for climbing. I dated a girl a whiel ago that was 5'10'' had a +4 ape index she climbed for a year and was leading 12s, just because she could reach so bloody far. My wife of 9 years, climber for 6 years has a -3 ape index and had problems on 10c/d, and boobs that are big enough to get in the way. To to quote one of the best climbers Alex Lowe in the American Alpie Journel "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!" Now go climb and have fun and dont worry how hard you pull.
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Jun 23, 2012, 12:32 AM
Post #29 of 37
(2308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 364
|
dagibbs wrote: guangzhou wrote: bearbreeder wrote: unless yr name is ondra ... there will always be someone better than you ... I am guessing Ondra's 15 minutes are almost up. Especially if you add some trad routes to the list. I was thinking the same thing -- within 0-5 years, there'll be someone better than Ondra. I don't think you understand with 15 minutes of fame means.
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Jun 23, 2012, 12:34 AM
Post #30 of 37
(2307 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 364
|
jeepnphreak wrote: "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!" +1
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Jun 23, 2012, 12:37 AM
Post #31 of 37
(2303 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 364
|
jeepnphreak wrote: I dated a girl a whiel ago that was 5'10'' had a +4 ape index she climbed for a year and was leading 12s, just because she could reach so bloody far. My wife of 9 years, climber for 6 years has a -3 ape index and had problems on 10c/d, and boobs that are big enough to get in the way. I doubt reach is that big of a factor. I bet your girlfriend was just more athletic.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jun 23, 2012, 12:43 AM
Post #32 of 37
(2302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
jeepnphreak wrote: No you are not the only one some people are born climbers, some like to climb but they body ratios are not ment for climbing. I dated a girl a whiel ago that was 5'10'' had a +4 ape index she climbed for a year and was leading 12s, just because she could reach so bloody far. My wife of 9 years, climber for 6 years has a -3 ape index and had problems on 10c/d, and boobs that are big enough to get in the way. To to quote one of the best climbers Alex Lowe in the American Alpie Journel "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!" Now go climb and have fun and dont worry how hard you pull. Worthless without pics
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Jun 23, 2012, 1:16 PM
Post #33 of 37
(2249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
jeepnphreak wrote: No you are not the only one some people are born climbers, some like to climb but they body ratios are not ment for climbing. I dated a girl a whiel ago that was 5'10'' had a +4 ape index she climbed for a year and was leading 12s, just because she could reach so bloody far. My wife of 9 years, climber for 6 years has a -3 ape index and had problems on 10c/d, and boobs that are big enough to get in the way. To to quote one of the best climbers Alex Lowe in the American Alpie Journel "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!" Now go climb and have fun and dont worry how hard you pull. My sense of time apparently doesn't jibe with yours very well.
|
|
|
|
|
lhwang
Jun 24, 2012, 4:16 AM
Post #34 of 37
(2208 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2005
Posts: 582
|
I've felt this way in the past too. I've been climbing since 2004, and I never feel like I can climb as hard as I want to. If I am brutally honest with myself, even though I like to think that I've climbed a lot over the last 8 years, there have been pretty substantial gaps in there. Also, until very recently, I didn't like training as much as I liked climbing. My progress up until two years ago when I actually started seriously training for climbing was very slow. Dave Mcleod makes an interesting point in his book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. Most of us are ego-driven at least to a point. Because of that, we tend to shy away from our weaknesses and would rather focus on training our strengths, even though training our weaknesses would obviously make the biggest gains. Most of us don't want to flail, but you have to work on the things you flail on in order to improve.
(This post was edited by lhwang on Jun 24, 2012, 9:03 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
HarrisonEberlin
Jul 4, 2012, 1:15 AM
Post #35 of 37
(1981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2012
Posts: 6
|
Gentics. Yeah I know it's 'not fair' but that's all it comes down to. Dave grahm climbed a only a year when he got a 5.14, do you think someone who's is 6ft 5in and weighs 200lbs (thin as a rail) could even get a 5.14 in Their lifetime?
|
|
|
|
|
stoneguy
Jul 4, 2012, 3:29 PM
Post #36 of 37
(1926 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2011
Posts: 139
|
I like honesty. It's a very admirable quality. Thank you. Bear in mind that a lot of these guys climbing ten are hanging, taking breaks, or even one of my partners stopped for a cigarette (outside). It's also probable that a carpenter using his hands all day long, may do better than a computer programmer. Yeah, it always seems like somebody else has more. You seem wonderfully pleasant... don't discount it's importance.
|
|
|
|
|
Fred20
Aug 30, 2012, 7:04 PM
Post #37 of 37
(1684 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2012
Posts: 50
|
I started climbing with a friend at the same time, and I find it fun to push myself and gage my progress not only against myself but others. If he can climb something that I can't doesn't mean I won't eventually. Height/Reach etc. can make a huge difference, often I'll climb something easy that he can't because I'm a bit taller/leaner/flexible. I find women tend to be a lot more laid back and relaxed, way less competitive about climbing than most guys (at my gym anyway)... I have tons of fun doing it and most the people I have met are awesome. I guess sometimes you have to accept your limits. Like many have posted, just have fun! My ultimate drive is to do this safely outside w/ friends for many years to come. EDIT: Though I did find that we quickly surpassed his GF who had been climbing for quite sometime and she really got frustrated with him because he is ultra competitive
(This post was edited by Fred20 on Aug 30, 2012, 7:27 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|