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osweetman
Jun 24, 2012, 8:46 AM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Jun 24, 2012
Posts: 1
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It looks like the climbing might be fun, but we bailed due to the following conditions:
- Solid thicket of blackberries along the base of all but the left side of the wall.
- The left side of the wall has two bolted routes. However, the anchor for the left-most route looks old and rusty. The first bolt for the other route is pretty high and we forgot to bring a stick-clip. Therefore, we decided to try to set up a top-rope. There appeared to be good trees at the top for anchoring.
- The hike to the top of the wall is very steep with a fair amount of blackberries to contend with. Partway up, we couldn't find any easy way around a large patch of poison oak. So we decided to bail.
If you go, make sure you're prepared for all of the above conditions.
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ire510
Jun 30, 2012, 6:46 AM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 22
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The last time Harlan's base got hacked out and poisoned was 2009. I remember cause I did it, from the long lost Wilderness Wall at the extreme climbers right, and the steep sport wall across from it, passing the .11 and .10, thru the .8/.7/.9 territory all the way over to the leftmost "easy lines". It really only takes a season or two for all that to grow back even when thoroughly chopped out.
osweetman - your right, those leftmost anchors on the easiest lines are old and inadequate. There aren't "retro-bolts" on that wall. All are aged and none should be trusted at this point.
There is a hikers trail that starts down the road before you hit the house that the property is on. Its obvious, a wire gate on your left keeps you off house land, while a steep (semi-loose) climbers trail will zig-zag all the way up to the large obvious tree acting as the anchor for the 5.11 in the center wall (careful rappelling, it requires either a 70 meter rope or 2 rappells, and mid-point anchors SUCK!). You might find some killer smith shades up there I left in 09. Have at em...
Unfortunately, new finds on Marys Peak and in the Alsea and Alsea Falls region has left Harlan to be the ugly old stepchild for much better local bouldering and cragging. With many opting for the Druids and Pillars and walls around Alsea few still traffic harlan and as a result it never stays clean.
Seepage - its all about the short season out there, because the walls seep thru july - who wants to spend time cleaning and re-bolting a crag that only can be climbed August, maybe september if you can bear the heat? Its a month crag. sorry.
If you want better local climbing, pm or email me - would love to connect you with other better spots that will have you forgetting harlan pretty quick...
If you love the place, still email, there are some developers in Kings Valley who still hold a candle to the place and would like to organize some area clean-ups and retro-bolting - as Harlans one month of good climbing is on the way!
(This post was edited by ire510 on Jun 30, 2012, 6:50 AM)
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