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boulderfanatic
Jun 25, 2012, 2:42 PM
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Registered: Sep 22, 2001
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Seeking route info near Simpson's wall...
I am curious if anyone can give me any history on a few lines at Bozoo. There is a sustained overhung climb about midway between Rigor and Simpson wall. It is 100 yards past Tastes Like Chicken, and 50 yards prior to Knappy Wig. It has two painted cold shuts on top. Climbs beautifully with long moves and a couple big moves down low after cruising some large blocks to a ledge. I want to know if this has ever been lead (i.e. gone on gear) or if it was just setup with anchors because it is a beautiful TR. It climbs like a hard 11 I would guess. Super classic but I have never heard anyone talk about it.
Next is an arete climb just past Simpson's wall with an old pin and two bolts no anchors. Probably 10c or so. Who bolted this, what's it called etc.
(This post was edited by boulderfanatic on Jun 25, 2012, 4:34 PM)
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cragmasterp
Jun 25, 2012, 3:13 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2003
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Yep, that line is called Bone Machine. I led it on gear in 1994 and rated it 11b. I also installed the cold shut that same year.
The bolted arete is called The Ship's Prow and was originally rated 10d. Put up in 1995 or so by me and Paul DeLap. This rating is based on climbing directly past the 1st bolt; you can make the route a little easier by heading left at first bolt but the pendulum-fall potential gets more dangerous going that way.
Most lines at Bozoo have been led on gear at the main areas; even routes that are not obvious like Bone Machine.
Paul Sullivan
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boulderfanatic
Jun 25, 2012, 3:38 PM
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Registered: Sep 22, 2001
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Awesome, thx Paul! It is a beautiful line! One of the best at Bozoo! My previous fav was lime house, this tops it. Bone Machine would be a sick on-sight! Pre-placed gear, or gear on lead? Any gear beta for us?
First time up it, it was a struggle. Knowing the holds (that often are very hard to see) makes a huge difference. I could see the 11b rating, may suggest 11c, I need to get on it again.
For ships prow, we felt that the natural line pulls up a few feet left of your first bolt to a rail that delivers you directly to the beautiful arete crux just above the second bolt. At first we thought the first bolt was too far right, but in assessing the fall zone, we like the placement, for sure. FYI your pin is already toasty! Needs to be removed, there is great gear near it, why the pin?
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cragmasterp
Jun 25, 2012, 3:59 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2003
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Jay - route was TR'd and cleaned for loose rock prior to the FA. Gear was placed on lead. It has been a while, but I remember using a red Lowe Balls and small grey alien to protect the start. Then from there the gear and the holds get better. Mostly small cams, with a purple TCU protecting the top before the shuts.
I was never totally happy w/ the way Ship's Prow turned out. We hand drilled the bolt from the ledge so it is a little bit lower than it should be. The pin should be removed it sounds like. Maybe we go up there and repair this route so it is a better lead, and install some shuts on it.
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