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Kartessa


Jun 26, 2012, 5:23 AM
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Going to Yosemite - suggested routes?
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Hey guys,

So I've booked another trip to the valley, and after the last trip, I think it's best to do my research before I go.

I'll be sticking to mostly single pitch sport for most of the week, but I had a guy come by the store telling me about a sick route he freed with his friend years and years ago.

I've checked the Internet, and YouTube and the guidebooks, but can't seem to find any information on it. All I know is the route is called "half dome" and it's over on the nose wall. Guy couldn't give me too many details since he doesn't make a habit of carrying a guidebook. "I just look up and go" is what he always says.

Anyways, if anyone had any information for me, it would be greatly appreciated, I've always wanted to do a big-wall, and since aiding isn't an option, this route sounded rad.

Thanks!


marc801


Jun 26, 2012, 9:45 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
Hey guys,

So I've booked another trip to the valley, and after the last trip, I think it's best to do my research before I go.

I'll be sticking to mostly single pitch sport for most of the week, but I had a guy come by the store telling me about a sick route he freed with his friend years and years ago.

I've checked the Internet, and YouTube and the guidebooks, but can't seem to find any information on it. All I know is the route is called "half dome" and it's over on the nose wall. Guy couldn't give me too many details since he doesn't make a habit of carrying a guidebook. "I just look up and go" is what he always says.

Anyways, if anyone had any information for me, it would be greatly appreciated, I've always wanted to do a big-wall, and since aiding isn't an option, this route sounded rad.

Thanks!
You're trolling, right?


iknowfear


Jun 26, 2012, 9:51 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
Hey guys,

So I've booked another trip to the valley, and after the last trip, I think it's best to do my research before I go.

I'll be sticking to mostly single pitch sport for most of the week, but I had a guy come by the store telling me about a sick route he freed with his friend years and years ago.

I've checked the Internet, and YouTube and the guidebooks, but can't seem to find any information on it. All I know is the route is called "half dome" and it's over on the nose wall. Guy couldn't give me too many details since he doesn't make a habit of carrying a guidebook. "I just look up and go" is what he always says.

Anyways, if anyone had any information for me, it would be greatly appreciated, I've always wanted to do a big-wall, and since aiding isn't an option, this route sounded rad.

Thanks!

you forgot to log is as "the nose" :-)

oh, and T-0


Kartessa


Jun 26, 2012, 9:55 AM
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Re: [iknowfear] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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Screw you both... This guy said the route was real.


jp_sucks


Jun 26, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!


Kartessa


Jun 26, 2012, 11:14 AM
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jp_sucks wrote:
If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?


marc801


Jun 26, 2012, 11:39 AM
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Kartessa wrote:
jp_sucks wrote:
If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?
There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.


jp_sucks


Jun 26, 2012, 12:28 PM
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You might also want to put in a directional or two so that you don't swing out too far from the wall if you fall?


Partner cracklover


Jun 26, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Re: [jp_sucks] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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jp_sucks wrote:
If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Just because you don't enjoy humping your rope up the backside doesn't mean Kartessa might not enjoy it.

GLaugh


Kartessa


Jun 26, 2012, 12:51 PM
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marc801 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
jp_sucks wrote:
If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?
There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

What if I use a static?


marc801


Jun 26, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
marc801 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
jp_sucks wrote:
If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?
There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

What if I use a static?
Actually, I'm more curious (or fearful) of what your belayer looks like (unless you plan on some sort of mechanical assist for the hundreds of pounds of rope involved).


edge


Jun 26, 2012, 1:08 PM
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Re: [marc801] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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You should do Royal Arches to Crest Jewel. The whole thing can be done with only a rack of draws, so I'm pretty sure its a sport route.


Kartessa


Jun 26, 2012, 2:31 PM
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Re: [marc801] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
marc801 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
jp_sucks wrote:
If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?
There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

What if I use a static?
Actually, I'm more curious (or fearful) of what your belayer looks like (unless you plan on some sort of mechanical assist for the hundreds of pounds of rope involved).

Are you calling me fat?


marc801


Jun 26, 2012, 3:22 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
marc801 wrote:
Actually, I'm more curious (or fearful) of what your belayer looks like (unless you plan on some sort of mechanical assist for the hundreds of pounds of rope involved).

Are you calling me fat?
That was hundreds of pounds of *rope*.
Reading comprehension?


curt


Jun 26, 2012, 4:17 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
Hey guys,

So I've booked another trip to the valley, and after the last trip, I think it's best to do my research before I go.

I'll be sticking to mostly single pitch sport for most of the week, but I had a guy come by the store telling me about a sick route he freed with his friend years and years ago.

I've checked the Internet, and YouTube and the guidebooks, but can't seem to find any information on it. All I know is the route is called "half dome" and it's over on the nose wall. Guy couldn't give me too many details since he doesn't make a habit of carrying a guidebook. "I just look up and go" is what he always says.

Anyways, if anyone had any information for me, it would be greatly appreciated, I've always wanted to do a big-wall, and since aiding isn't an option, this route sounded rad.

Thanks!

When are you going? I've gotta see this. Cool

Curt


majid_sabet


Jun 26, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Do not listen to these guys on this site. here is the picture of the top rope tree and the view for you






sungam


Jun 28, 2012, 12:48 AM
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Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 28, 2012, 12:32 PM
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Link to image original http://www.flickr.com/...ilektrik/4072096626/

Troll or more embarrassing than getting hit by a bus and having unclean undies in the ER - just saw this image on Pinterest and - wow! The photographer blended 3 exposures to create the effect.

Why troll when there are much better ways to interact?


sungam


Jun 28, 2012, 3:28 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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She isn't trolling, she was actually informed that the route exists.

It's not her fault she doesn't follow Bert and Earnie's good advice.



Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 29, 2012, 1:07 PM
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In reply to:
another

In reply to:
the valley


In reply to:
single pitch sport

Not trolling - uh huh... If not, better keep a clean pair in the purse, it would be especially embarrassing to be hit by one of the Green Dragons and not be prepared. You know how small town talk gets round.....


Kartessa


Jun 29, 2012, 1:31 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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happiegrrrl wrote:
In reply to:
another

In reply to:
the valley


In reply to:
single pitch sport

Not trolling - uh huh... If not, better keep a clean pair in the purse, it would be especially embarrassing to be hit by one of the Green Dragons and not be prepared. You know how small town talk gets round.....

Green dragon? Is that a route? Sounds more like a drug to me...


granite_grrl


Jul 3, 2012, 6:38 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
In reply to:
another

In reply to:
the valley


In reply to:
single pitch sport

Not trolling - uh huh... If not, better keep a clean pair in the purse, it would be especially embarrassing to be hit by one of the Green Dragons and not be prepared. You know how small town talk gets round.....

Green dragon? Is that a route? Sounds more like a drug to me...

I'm sure she's talking about one of those new DMM cams.



Try to stay away from those butterfinger leaders who drop gear.


Kartessa


Jul 3, 2012, 7:15 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Try to stay away from those butterfinger leaders who drop gear.

But what if I like candy bars and free gear?

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